Help removing crankshaft damper pulley
 

I have successfully removed the Crankshaft Damper Bolt and tapped the threads. I placed the infamous “button” on the crankshaft snout and used the puller supplied by JCNA and the Coventry Foundation to pull the crankshaft damper pulley, except it’s spinning the crank instead.

Am I missing something? The crankshaft shouldn’t be turning. My car is in park and the park brake is engaged.

I attempted using the crankshaft locking tool used for removing the bolt with the puller but no dice. The puller only has two holes where the adaptor and the crank lock tool have four.

How do I keep the engine from turning?

There should be another component part to the puller which bolts to damper and prevents rotation.
Trans in Park will prevent transmission rotating but will not have any effect on engine, only a torque converter between engine and trans.

What I ended up doing was wedging a pry bar on the torque converter to hold it in place. That is keeping the crank from spinning but the pulley does not want to let up. I have tried even smacking it with a hammer.

The holding tool is used in conjunction with the puller. 4 bolts in total, 2 slightly shorter bolts for holding tool to pulley and 2 slightly longer through puller and holding tool 90 degrees to first two.
You only need to pull it a little then tap it rearwards to free. That was how mine was at least.

Caution: Do not use JD 216, crankshaft setting peg, to hold the crankshaft
when tightening or loosening the center bolt of the crankshaft.

I will attest to the fact that IF you use the timing holding tool in the drive plate and you bend a timing segment, your life will be hell until you repair or replace the drive plate.

This happened to a fellow mechanic at the Jaguar dealer I worked at. It took 2 days of diagnosing until it was realized what he had done and he still denied using the peg to lock the engine and damaged the drive plate.(he lied)

Luckily my buddy had a good-used drive plate (AJ27) and gave it to him to get him out of the jam.(a new one was HUNDREDS of dollars)

I do not have the timing holding peg. I was looking at the JTIS and it calls for holding the torque converter with a lever. That is what I have done. Unfortunately, I haven’t gotten the damper to budge even a little bit. I wonder if my “button” is not working out. It’s actually a socket that more or less fits.


What alternatives can I use that can substitute the infamous button?

What I used when the toolroom parts are missing. (people sometimes don't return the tools or STEAL them)


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0a39d677c1.jpg
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Motorcarman, these are the tools I have. Other than the button, is there anything else I am missing?

What diameter is that socket in the bottom middle left of your picture?

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...983f4966b.jpeg


I already have the bolt out, so it’s just a matter of pulling the pulley.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...1251aea8c2.jpg



Which of the surfaces in this picture should the tension be applied to?

Use the tool in the centre of the photo with the 'button' to pull the crankshaft pulley off the crankshaft. Be careful whilst threading the two 8mm bolts into the pulley that you don't damage the timing cover with the bolt ends.

I’ve been using that tool but I don’t have a proper button. What looks like a button to the left of the white plastic tool does not stay in place when placed on the crankshaft and is too wide in diameter. I have tried sockets and 3” extensions as a substitute for the button but I am getting nowhere.

Yes it looks way too big. Protecting the crank snout is the aim and smaller than pulley ID, something as simple as a coin might work.

To the snout of the crank only, button needs to fit through the lock device which is standing slightly proud of the snout.

So, the circle that’s after the split ring, which I assume is the split collar?


I’m going to have a machine shop fabricate a button for me.

https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...iABEgIf0fD_BwE

I use the cone shaped end from a puller set like the one here.

It has a cone shape to keep it centered in the crank bolt hole but too large to fall in, narrow enough to fit inside split cone.

Ok, I see. The guy at JCNA also suggested quarters but, I would rather have something a little bit stronger there. I will check the pullers that can be rented at the chain part stores, if not, I'll have a machine shop make me one.

The pulley never came loose even a proper button while using the puller. I have now dismantled the bumper and radiators and will be applying a propane torch to it. I also had a thread strip from the pulley. So I will have to tap it one size larger. What a nightmare.

I am no longer asking nicely.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d2cafafa4.jpeg
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I got it out! I had to use a combination of tools to get it out.

• A universal harmonic balancer puller from advanced auto
• 3/8 drill bit and tap
• Propane torch
• mallet
• Choice swear words
• Patience

Alls well that ends well.

do you have any words of wisdom, having gone thru the ordeal ?

what can you advise for someone getting ready to perform the same operation ? Any tips on what to try first, and especially, any tips on what not to do ?

Z

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...226ad677cb.jpg
Old seal



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Old O-ring

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Cleaned the surface and before placing the new seal.