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How do I get the front struts out?
Hello,
I have bad upper strut mount bushings and I'm in the process of replacing them. I looked at three different you tube videos for this, all of which make the job look very easy. I followed all instructions. In the first video, the guy just takes the struts out with some light downward compression on a pry bar on the lower suspension. When I try this, I'm not even close to getting the strut out, as it won't clear all the obstructions.. The second video, the guy disconnects the upper control arm ball point, pivots it down, and takes the strut out. I cannot get the ball point out with his method of hitting the spindle with a hammer, as he doesn't explain or show how he does it, he just says hit it with a hammer. I had no luck and I'm not going to go after it with a sledge hammer, since I don't really know how to do it. The third video, the guy takes off the upper control arm by removing the main bolt. Looks easy, he just takes the nut off and spins the main bolt out by hand. On mine, I take the bolt off and get zero movement. Hitting the other end with a hammer also results in zero movement. I tried compressing the suspension a little, but still no luck. So, none of the you tube videos work for me, they do not provide enough info and everything just comes right off with no effort, which is not realistic. Is there another way of doing this that I'm missing? Any ideas??? Thanks. -Chris |
My Experience
Originally Posted by Chris Lutz
(Post 2675890)
Hello,
I have bad upper strut mount bushings and I'm in the process of replacing them. I looked at three different you tube videos for this, all of which make the job look very easy. I followed all instructions. In the first video, the guy just takes the struts out with some light downward compression on a pry bar on the lower suspension. When I try this, I'm not even close to getting the strut out, as it won't clear all the obstructions.. The second video, the guy disconnects the upper control arm ball point, pivots it down, and takes the strut out. I cannot get the ball point out with his method of hitting the spindle with a hammer, as he doesn't explain or show how he does it, he just says hit it with a hammer. I had no luck and I'm not going to go after it with a sledge hammer, since I don't really know how to do it. The third video, the guy takes off the upper control arm by removing the main bolt. Looks easy, he just takes the nut off and spins the main bolt out by hand. On mine, I take the bolt off and get zero movement. Hitting the other end with a hammer also results in zero movement. I tried compressing the suspension a little, but still no luck. So, none of the you tube videos work for me, they do not provide enough info and everything just comes right off with no effort, which is not realistic. Is there another way of doing this that I'm missing? The next obvious thing to me would be to compress the spring while it's still wedged up in the car, then just pivot it out when the whole works is shorter and can clear the inner fender bracing. Any ideas??? Thanks. -Chris |
Thanks for the reply, but I can rotate it fine with a wrench, I just can't get it out. Even when rotating it AND hitting it with a hammer to force it to come out, it will not move even a millimeter. All bushings have been replaced recently.
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I've been doing a lot of research on this and it looks like my best bet is to try to remove the upper control arms so I can get the struts out. Any tips on removing the long bolts on the control arms is appreciated, as I'm not having any luck. The only thing I can think of is to keep trying to hit it with the hammer and see if I can get it to start to move out.
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Chris, you need to get the bolt to move initial time.
I take it you don't have air, so I will go with a couple of different things to try, the first is getting the ball joint out. Yes, the banging on the A arm will work but a couple of things to help it along like a ball joint splitter helps but not always available. Try a hammer on one side and hold it tight against the area and hit the other side with a hammer of your choice, mostly one you can control. A couple of blows should do it. Make sure the nut that holds the ball joint is down a few threads so as to catch it from taking a lot of skin off your shin. OK, it's still welded to the A arm, different area needs attention. The long bolt needs a air hammer on the end with the nut on it, you don't have one, well that's awful. Do you have a good C clap? Take the nut all the way down to the end and put one end on the nut and the other on the bracket that holds the bolt. Turn the C clap and get ready for a big bang when it moves, if you can turn the head of the bolt back and forth while doing the tightening, better yet. Getting things to stay in place will require some effort, Hope you have used a lot of WD 40 or your best slick stuff. Put this all back together with anti seize. Hope one way or the other will fix you up. Wayne |
Wayne,
Thanks for your advice. I have no air tools for this job. I have a ball joint splitter, but if I use it here, it will destroy the rubber seal on the ball joint. I don't have a clamp large enough for the control arm bolt. I think the solution now is to tow it to my Jag shop. I do not have the tools, knowledge, or time to do this job correctly. I also just noticed that I have the original struts and 43k miles, so it's probably time to replace the struts completely, so I think I will just tow it to the shop and let the pros deal with it after I'm able to get the new upper strut mounts. Thanks again. -Chris |
Disconnect the antiroll bars. This will allow the suspension assembly to drop just enough to remove the strut. It does require some finagling to remove. If that fails to give you enough clearance, release either ball joints. I had great success with this style of ball joint remover.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c09018cc8.jpeg |
Thanks. I did disconnect the anti-roll bars. I'd rather not have to tow my car to the shop, as it won't be cheap. I guess I'll look into it, thanks.
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Originally Posted by Chris Lutz
(Post 2675933)
I've been doing a lot of research on this and it looks like my best bet is to try to remove the upper control arms so I can get the struts out. Any tips on removing the long bolts on the control arms is appreciated, as I'm not having any luck. The only thing I can think of is to keep trying to hit it with the hammer and see if I can get it to start to move out.
The different ball joints fitted seem to complicate the other method of gaining clearance, some allow the downward movement of the suspension and some bind up beforehand. This then requires ball joint separation. The ball joint itself should not be hit with hammer, ideally hold one hammer on side of upright at ball joint taper and strike opposite side with another. |
If there is a Autozone store in your area you should be able to borrow tool # 57308 Ball Joint Separator. Or just buy one, it's less than $40. I have used it on the upper ball joint with no damage to the boot.
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First: I have NO IDEA what MY car you have! (mystery cars get less response)
Second: The X100 has 'coil-over-hydraulic-dampers'. (not struts) Third: Most x100 front suspension damper/springs can be removed with the plastic wheel-arch liners out of the way. Tilt the damper/spring to the side and pull free from the upper control arm opening into the extra space provided. I just did this to one of my 2000MY XKRs to replace the upper damper mounts.(probably a few at the dealer years ago) If your car is the 4.2 liter X100, I will admit that I don't think I ever this this method. Probably no difference? |
Originally Posted by motorcarman
(Post 2676041)
First: I have NO IDEA what MY car you have! (mystery cars get less response)
Second: The X100 has 'coil-over-hydraulic-dampers'. (not struts) Third: Most x100 front suspension damper/springs can be removed with the plastic wheel-arch liners out of the way. Tilt the damper/spring to the side and pull free from the upper control arm opening into the extra space provided. I just did this to one of my 2000MY XKRs to replace the upper damper mounts.(probably a few at the dealer years ago) If your car is the 4.2 liter X100, I will admit that I don't think I ever this this method. Probably no difference? |
I have found the liner out method is dependant on what ball joints are fitted. Some aftermarket seem to have less movement than others and prevent the upright from dropping low enough.
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Even though the fulcrum pin on our XK8 had recently been removed and replaced using lubricant a later removal proved difficult. It took a while to realise that the washers/spacers were tilted and binding on the shaft and impeding movement. By progressively freeing the washers/spacers plus a hammer on the pin end enabled removal.
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Originally Posted by bazjag
(Post 2676068)
Even though the fulcrum pin on our XK8 had recently been removed and replaced using lubricant a later removal proved difficult. It took a while to realise that the washers/spacers were tilted and binding on the shaft and impeding movement. By progressively freeing the washers/spacers plus a hammer on the pin end enabled removal.
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I’ve just been watching John on to the garage doing his shocks and springs. He’s pretty good
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I have a 2000 MY, sorry, didn't know it mattered. There is no room to remove the strut; it will wedge itself on the lower strut mount if I try to move it over into the evident space provided for removal. I've removed the inner splash guards, sway bar linkage, everything, but it will not budge.
I bought a ball joint remover. It lasted about 10 minutes (see photo). At this point, I give up. Thank you for all your thoughts and advice, it was all great information, but doesn't work with someone who no experience with a Jag suspension and on a suspension where the laws of physics don't apply. I took my entire Camaro suspension apart in a couple hours, but this is a bridge too far for me. I really appreciate everyone's willingness to help. I'll chime in again in a month or two after it gets back from the shop and my wallet is lightened by about $2,000! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...90c154f03f.jpg |
That doesn't look like the one from Autozone.
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too bad you don't live near by - would have you drive over with some cold beverages and we could knock this out - have done my 2000XK8 5 times now. First time the passenger side took a whole can of pb blaster and about a day and a half of pounding, twisting/turning to get the upper control arm bolt to move. Have had no issues since using copper grease
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man just hit the knuckle harder
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