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How I repaired my ABS
4 Attachment(s)
This is How I was able to remove my ABS control box from the module without loosening any brake fittings. In the first picture I took the power steering reservoir loose (Leaving the hoses connected) and bungied it out of the way. Then I disconnected the electrical plug. Then I disconnected the windshield washer fill tube. Then I took the 4 bolts holding the module mounting bracket to the body. Then I carefully raised and bent out the bottom of the unit (as in the second picture). Then I slid the box off of the solenoids after removing the 4 attaching bolts. It slides right off and out. Repair the box any way you choose. Then reverse the procedure. I soldered mine after cutting open the box and resealed again. Brakes work great again and no bleeding required. I am sure that I am not the first person to do it this way. It is better to avoid opening up the brake system.
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Thank you. It looks like a lot less hassle your way. What size is the external star socket to remove the star bolts?
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Originally Posted by LivewireRacing
(Post 941604)
Thank you. It looks like a lot less hassle your way. What size is the external star socket to remove the star bolts?
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I could not remove the box without hitting the brake lines.
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Crap. And an E4 is too small.
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It's E6. I bought a used abs and the screws were in so tight that I turned the head on one of them. They feel like they're going to snap.
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My bolts came out fairly easily. You may have to take the brake lines off to take the unit totally out and on the bench to get the bolts loose. (if the bolt is twisting off then it probably will break off no matter were it is). I used a hacksaw to carefully cut the unit open along the seam being careful not to protrude into the unit. Soldering was easy using info already posted.
The control box will slide off of the solenoid stems if you pull the bottom of the unit out (as per the Photo) without disconnecting the brake lines. |
Originally Posted by RJ237
(Post 941761)
It's E6. I bought a used abs and the screws were in so tight that I turned the head on one of them. They feel like they're going to snap.
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Did the the control box come off as i described? I genuinly dislike getting air in my ABS system and will avoid it like the plague.
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Yep. I realized the two brass nuts that attach the brake fluid container holder needed to come off. Once that bracket was free, I was able to swing the base of the ABS pump medially and extract the controller.
On one of my motorcycles I tried to bleed the rear brake. The ABS unit makes it really tricky. So, yes, I too hate getting air in the lines in the ABS brake systems. Oh yeah, all the anti-rattle clips that hold the brake lines must come off. Of course, some broke due to age. |
my ABS repair
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by bigk9863
(Post 923471)
This is How I was able to remove my ABS control box from the module without loosening any brake fittings. In the first picture I took the power steering reservoir loose (Leaving the hoses connected) and bungied it out of the way. Then I disconnected the electrical plug. Then I disconnected the windshield washer fill tube. Then I took the 4 bolts holding the module mounting bracket to the body. Then I carefully raised and bent out the bottom of the unit (as in the second picture). Then I slid the box off of the solenoids after removing the 4 attaching bolts. It slides right off and out. Repair the box any way you choose. Then reverse the procedure. I soldered mine after cutting open the box and resealed again. Brakes work great again and no bleeding required. I am sure that I am not the first person to do it this way. It is better to avoid opening up the brake system.
If you do not like air in your ABS module, this is how to do it. |
Sorry, I meant to repost this on another recent thread about ABS problems, but could not figure out how to delete it.
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