I would also be interested in one of these if produced for the x350

 

The one you show is for the older 4.0 XKR/XJRs (1997-1999), that is a complicated setup as its partly electronical/mechanical, and is a bit more complexto make I guess.

The 4.0 XKR/XJRs 2000-2002 have almost similar (in size) unit, but is actually already a full fly by wire unit like the 4.2 ones

One of the reasons for the 4.2 TB range I mentioned as biggest market, is that you can use that TB also on the 4.0 ones (2000-2002), the TPS is exactly the same as is the TB motor control. Just an adjustment on the intake elbow is needed to align the bolt holes.

So the you have 1 TB design that can be used on the 4.0 XJR/XKR 2000-2002, XKR 2003-2005 and the 4.2 STR/XJR till 2005.


The 4.2 XK, 4.2 XJR and STR from 2006 is using again the other type that tijoe mentioned.

There is potentially another big market, and that is for the 5.0 SC engines. Simply said if the stock TB size is just adequate for the stock engine, adding 100 rwhp (which is relatively easy for these cars would mean obviously more restriction from the stock.
But I have no experience/measurements on these engines, so cant tell for sure.

You have a start now I would say

 

Assuming people have more confidence in mass modifying older car models (here I include myself too) I'm very tempted to help the owners by providing 83mm version for the ones who have this version C2C20541 (Denso 1985003300)
"then you may end up having to manufacture 2 different versions" - The mold, printing prototypes and scanning, Ok, so in this case "the TPS is exactly the same as is the TB motor control" we can skip maybe the scan-doing it by measurements , and skip 1 proto prints out of 2 .
will still be double investment worse (best case scenario 1.6 cost of investment) , so either is 5 for each type, either is nothing.
Sure it can be just single one produced, is not 5 minimum ,but not in the prices above... but even I , don't want to look at the price digits for single TB

Now, with what we have, @avos knows one person, me also 1, and probably 1 may show up reading this post , Is that all ?

 

I have an extra I can play with. Count me in

 

I meant people who will want this 83mm upgraded TB . @jazzyjags Will you want one ?

 

Yes, sign me up. Do you need a core to cannibalize the electronics from? What I meant is I have a spare TB I can dedicate to this project

 

Cool, then we are 4 , let's see if we can sum up some more
The cheapest way will be to just get one from local market. The electronics itself is not really needed, because the final result will be just like having an re-bored TB, is just that this size can be re-bored, because is too big and sidewalls of the 75mm will fall off.
I'm still ready to expect low RPM(rattling or high idle) and at the max limit RPM - issues(check engine light OBD - 6.5k rpm+ ) , except the overall acc pedal response , which for sure will not be the same best as having new ECU remap for correction factor, but still better than the 75 setup.
For the ones who want the solution out of the box, are the PedalBox like piggybacks ,only for acceleration calibration, which will solve all these stuff without an classic remap.
That still can be also done at the platform, but it will not be part of the TB 83 itself.

 

These are the pics of the throttle body of the AJ27 cars (this one if a pare one I have). This should be the same for the post 2000 XKR as well as XJR. The last pic if the duct/blend into the rear entry of the M112 Supercharger.

The picture you showed is from an earlier AJ26- which is why it has the vacuum throttle pot for cruise control.

 

I would be interested at the price quoted- if it bolts up to the same bolt spacings, coolant duct , ( I understand the electronics, and denso TPS , cabling, etc need to be retro fitted) and the throttle shaft fitted.

What about the throttle plate itself?

 

I would be interest in one of the Throttle bodies, but would like to explore the possibility that the casting could be made at 83mm, but have enough material to enlarge to 85mm.
(Looking at the proximity and ID of the motor housing cavity relative to an 85mm butterfly/throttle plate bore, may not be able to accommodate that large an ID. ) 83mm bore may leave very little material between the cavity for the motor.

Cristian, as designs go, I believe that there will be more machining and small parts that your cost estimate of $300 USD does not anticipate.
Each housing will have to have multiple set-ups to machine the following.
- Tap 5 holes for the plastic motor cover, and on the same surface tap 3 more holes to mount the electric motor.
- Tap 2 holes on the opposite side for the TPS
- In another set-up. drill and tap 2 holes used for adjusting the throttle plate.
- Precision drill 2 press fit holes for motor/cover alignment pins
- Precision drill one press fit hole for the idle gear bearing shaft.
- Hone or finish the TB opening where the Throttle plate sits closed.
- We will need to have the 3 shafts shown in the attached image press fit into the TB housing. (Too difficult for the majority of us to try to remove our pins and press into the new housing.)
- Figure out a way to provide the coolant lines in the TB body. (Thread the opening and use fittings? Finding or fabricating coolant lines like the ones used in the stock TB could be a challenge.)
- (There is a cap pressed into to enclose the cross drilled coolant cavity.)
- I understand that you will include the throttle plate, actuator, and fasteners.
I'd bet that you will have to spend around 2 hours of time spent per throttle body to add the features listed above. (Here in the USA, at a minimum shop rate of $60/hr, that is $120 in preparation per TB.)
Please double check that you will be able to provide the TB for $300 each. I'd hate to see you loose money.

 

@Count Iblis Yep, yours Is as mentioned above different than the one we have the chance to share the build , and is also more complex to do. Sorry to say, but we might not be able to do it, from the known reasons: costs/no. of orders.
@Tijoe Thank you for your last list of details, this is actually a very valuable technical brief. Is clearly visible from your post you are one of the peoples who really understands the efforts of building such part.
Yes,we will be on a very low margin.I'm not sure about that 85,will interfere with the 4 bolts used for installing into the manifold. Are you sure you have this spacing (85+4mm) ?
- Holes I noticed (except 1 screw limiter) all machined holes are in the same direction so we will use the CNC once the 3D model is ready, we will have a machined fastening board to keep the TB housing in place
- If shafts is hard to remove for some, providing other new ones will not be faisable. This service of bearing/shafts removal is usually done in most of the shops were starter and alternator motors are refurbished. If you find it more convenient ,your old part can be shipped to our location, then internals moved here into the new version will be shipped back to you.
- "Figure out a way to provide the coolant lines in the TB body" - Is not an issue, cooper lines , there are already in the shop made for brake, these are bigger diameter but won't be a problem
- "actuator, and fasteners" ? No actuator no you will use your original , or maybe I did not understood well what you mean .
Fasteners - if you talk about rivets which holds actuator and pcb from the housing, yes, these will be provided.

 

Before getting one TB here locally , @Tijoe can you please provide us the main gear shaft diameter and how much distance we have left outside that gear in the picture above?

 

Appears to be 4.95mm OD / .195 in dia. ( I am only using a caliper accurate to 3 places)

Spent 1+ hours trying to take the TB apart. Not as easy as I thought it would be. Am stuck now trying to get the throttle plate shaft out. 1/2 gear appears to be pressed onto the shaft. Can't pry/leverage it off. Tried tapping on the end of the throttle shaft to see if it would tap out. No luck. Next will be to search the internet on a trick or technique, if I can't find any clues, I'll have to put it on my press.
- Biggest issue I ran into was trying to get the screws out of the throttle plate shaft.
1. Carefully ground down the knurled/flared ends of the screws before trying to loosen/take them out.
2. Found the best fitting Phillips bit I could put into a 1/4" ratchet wrench to break the screws loose.
3. Chucked up the TB at a slight angle that placed the throttle plate screws as vertical as possible.
4. put the Phillips into the head of the screw. Pushed down with one hand as I added leverage on the ratchet wrench.
5. The Soft metal of the screw twisted out and the screw didn't move at all. (Now I had a nice countersinkbore in the screw. (Irritated, though perhaps the screws are aluminum, nope, just some shitty soft metal.)
6. Went to the second screw, and tried to be more careful - Instantly stripped out just like the first one.
7. Drill out the 2 screws and removed the throttle plate.
8. Thinking that removing the shaft from the 1/2 gear would be easy, I gave up after trying to get it apart without any luck.

As I stated somewhere in a past post, I believe that our throttle bodies are not designed to be serviced and replaced as a complete unit when something fails.

Below are some more images of the TB housing. As I tried to state earlier, there are 3 different sets of holes that need to be tapped, the 7 tapped holes on the electronics side, 2 hole on the opposite side where the TPS bolts up, and 2 more holes for set screws used to set up the closed and idle position of the throttle plate.

 

4.95mm, and how much get's out ? Reason is , there was estimated to gain that lenght+the other head few mm to have 83-75=8mm extra long main butterfly shaft.

Some tips/tricks:
Yep, the valve screws are no special steel, and because of the vibrations are locked with thread-locker. This is the same struggle extra bore services are dealing with.
I recommend before attacking this screws with any tool, to head up the valve with a torch,- then to spray just the screws with Butan spray (used in electronics loose circuit diagnostic)
Right after, soak with cyanoacrylate remover all that screw area (rear and front), and let it do it's action for couple of hours with the screws head facing downwards.
Try with the perfect fit screw , and if doesn't move , to not apply force, just repeat the process once again as above. At second round, will definitively be listening to your bit.
For shaft removal from gear , yes you will need a press, again depending on the material of the gear, it may be the case to cold down the shaft.(if that is the case, butan is not really enough, it may be needed carbon ice)

 

[QUOTE=cristian.s;2023423]4.95mm, and how much get's out ? Reason is , there was estimated to gain that length+the other head few mm to have 83-75=8mm extra long main butterfly shaft. /QUOTE]

I am having a bit of translation problem understanding what you are asking. "How much it get's out?" Are you asking how much the gear shaft is protruding out of the housing? This distance is 17mm.
The throttle plate shaft is 5.165" long threaded end to threaded end. (131.2mm)

The image below show how a 2007 Throttle body is closely tucked in between the intercooler inlet manifolds. (The 2003-2005 have basically the same for factor.)
I don't think you can enlarge the external form factor. You can probably move out the TPS mount a few mm, but the electrical can move farther out. Since I haven't taken the rest of the throttle body apart, I can't confirm, but I am fairly certain that the bearing that lies between the actuator gear and 75mm bore may become an issue. I can't see it being moved out without modifying other parts.

 

Hmm, this looks less than 17mm, maybe is the other side of the shaft.
But this size?

 

Shaft protrudes 17mm above the housing.
Washer below gear = .49mm
Gear height = 12.9 mm
Section of shaft above gear = 3.5 mm to 3.61 mm

 

Good, so all startup data collected, only 4 wanting TB so far.
Preorders are open for at least 1 to be able to get start working on it

 

I have an interest in this for x100 05-06 xkr also.

 

Thanks Roverboy,

Then you just triggered start of production, to all of you here, once we finish scan and 3D model design, I will post pictures here, and at that point I will need you to register on the platform and request your preorder by adding your part , in sechtor.com, complete link is available for models under development.
Opening a build has a symbolic cost of 1eur/order which will be part of your final part.
I will start today adding the X100 so then X100 link will be generated, I will be the first 1Eur client
This will be mostly required to be able to get the best shipping forwarders to you, since shipping cost to oversea if not optimized will affect the price considerably.