OK, so I am getting close. I put the hydraulic hoses in and there are no leaks. I cycled the top up and down about 6 times but the latch will not draw the roof down. I t pops up when it is in the closing motion, so I think the hoses are not switched. How long does it take to get the air out/bleed? Is there some fine tuning on the latch (switches) that has to be done? The pump has plenty of fluid (I added some) and it makes a whining noise as the roof is about to close but it remains open at the windshield.

 

The hydraulic system is self purging and it does take a little time to get the air out.

The latch and lift hydraulic system for this roof is a push / push system so know the hoses must be connected to the proper fitting. Swap the fittings on the pump open the roof and park the latch manually and then attempt to close the roof electrically.

 

Did you resolve the issue? I do have the same problem...

(https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...arting-191027/)

 

I am done with the latch install and new hoses, the following are a few comments for what it is worth. It took about 9 hours to remove the old hoses, install new ones and put in a new latch and obviously remove about half the interior. My experience with Top Hydraulics, specifically Klaus was very positive, fast turnaround, answered my questions and everything works. A nice bonus is their particular hoses are a bit thinner/lower diameter than stock, allowing easy attachment to the native hose clips on the Jag. I made a couple of time costly errors, one was I installed the hoses and latch and then decided to test the system, forgetting to reattach the power via the plug on the header. I went as far as checking out the switches and then realized they were not powered, this wasted an hour. I also misinterpreted a diagram as the hoses originating from the back ram vice the pump. The hoses from Top Hydraulics hoses are marked and connect to the pump. It is helpful to raise the roof at one point, this allows easy passage through to the trunk (boot). If I had to do it again, I could probably knock it out in 6 hours or so, not repeating my mistakes

. Everything works and I just epoxied the Jaguar sill in place, hopefully it will hold. Thanks to all who helped me through this, I really appreciate the advice! This forum has been an enormous help.
Bill
In the middle of the install



Everything back in place and no green shower!

 

I am done with the latch install and new hoses, the following are a few comments for what it is worth. It took about 9 hours to remove the old hoses, install new ones and put in a new latch and obviously remove about half the interior. My experience with Top Hydraulics, specifically Klaus was very positive, fast turnaround, answered my questions and everything works. A nice bonus is their particular hoses are a bit thinner/lower diameter than stock, allowing easy attachment to the native hose clips on the Jag. I made a couple of time costly errors, one was I installed the hoses and latch and then decided to test the system, forgetting to reattach the power via the plug on the header. I went as far as checking out the switches and then realized they were not powered, this wasted an hour. I also misinterpreted a diagram as the hoses originating from the back ram vice the pump. The hoses from Top Hydraulics hoses are marked and connect to the pump. It is helpful to raise the roof at one point, this allows easy passage through to the trunk (boot). If I had to do it again, I could probably knock it out in 6 hours or so, not repeating my mistakes!


In the middle of the hose pull



All done!

 

You have the same interior colour as me

 

This might help someone :

July 4 - 17, 2016: Fixing the XK8's issues . . . - Richard Rothrauff

 

I used a silicone glue when I pulled mine. Remember there may come a time when you have to take it off again. The screws for the sill removal are under the plate after all.

FWIW, the price of a brand new sill plate is not that bad. I found several on eBay for ~$35 each, OEM tape included.

 

I read through most of the posts, and I'm wondering if this repair will resolve my problems.
After being gone 2 weeks, I took my 2000 xk8 out for a roll. Put the top down, and within a few minutes, I noticed some light green fluid dripping from the dome light assembly. Headed home, and cleaned up the fluid, tried to put the top up. The latch opened, but the top barely moved. I set up some towels to collect the fluid and cleaned up what had dripped. Attached is a photo of the fluid in the dome light assembly, the dark area around the perimeter of the light lens.
All input will be appreciated.
Relatively new Jag owner, Steve

 

Steve,

Yep! This is the infamous green shower and this thread documents a DIY repair.

The X100 convertible hood is powered by a hydraulic pump, in the trunk, with one (of many) hose that runs from the back to the over head latch above the windscreen.

Basically the hose (and possibly the latch) are bad and leaking hydraulic fluid.

Lots of member’s here have DIY-ed R&R their hydraulic hoses, as if they are OEM from factory, they are now well past their sell by date. Easy to check as all hoses go to the pump. In the trunk, remove the RHS carpet liner and look at pump on top of rack. Inspect the hoses.

If you find the latch itself is leaking fluid, there are many known firms who can repair it. If you’re in that “territory” you may as well do the 2 hydraulic rams that actually lift the hood hinges. They are buried in the rear cabin quarter panels.

If you DIY this job, basically the entire car’s interior will need to come out.

 

Thanks a bunch for the quick response.

 

Steve,

Here’s a couple of pics of what you’re dealing with. Getting a look at the pump and it’s hoses is a 2 min job. Open trunk, remove RHS wall carpet and pump is on top of the rack.



Here’s a pic of my previous work in progress with the pump moved off the rack. You can see the old bad hoses as the rubber sheath has disintegrated.

Easy for a quick peek to check.

 

If you’re doing the overhead latch, then it’s worth checking the hydraulic rams behind the rear cabin quarter panels.



if you’re handy with a “wrench” it’s a relatively simple job to strip the rear interior to have a look.



if you have a leaking hydraulic ram, you’ll see the oil stain under the rear seats first.