Oil cooler hose replacement
 

I'm about to tackle replacing the the lines from the engine block to the oil cooler. I am replacing all four hoses and o rings. It does not look like a terrible job ( i have the wheel arch liners and undertray removed already ) but I'm thinking that it might be just as well to drain the oil before starting as it may all drain out anyway when I take the lines out of the block ?

Looking for comments from folks who have done this job before.

There is only minor spilling of oil on this job, especially if the car is on ramps with the nose up. Have a catch pan ready but don't expect oil gushing out. The only advice is to take your time. Make sure everything is properly fitted first as you are working with hard steel screws on soft aluminum parts. Don't use the screws to drive parts together. But you knew that already!

Best of luck, keep us posted.

Car is up on jack stands and quite level but thanks for the information. I was hoping that I would not end up with all the oil in the sump up my sleeves and glad to hear that it should not. And I will certainly be careful with the steel to aluminium connections :)

Right now I'm trying to replace the drivers side, I have the fender covers out, but I'm curious as how the hose comes off the block? Sorry for the dumb Q but I really can't see it?

Picture
 

That is it, that screw has to be removed, then the x-brace comes off. Then the lines have to be pulled off slightly (o-ring pulled from its groove).

Hi.

In the center of the block, at its base, just under the area of the harmonic is a fork shaped, free, tie down (#8). It basically clamps down, on and over the fittings for the block end of the hoses that are really a "pushin" into the block and top of the oil catch pan... At its center is a single bolt, approx 13mm. Undo that bolt, don't worry, nothing will go flying. Once you have remove the fastening bolts to everything you are going to try to remove and replace,,, then start slowly pulling the seams apart. NOTE ALL BUSHINGS AND RINGS...

You might need to slowly twist the hoses out of the pan. Slooowly. Very little oil should/will spill.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3663058a21.jpg

Thank you all. I got it off. Now I have no idea how I will get it back on LOL.

Thanks again!!!

Rich

Don't fret. Take a short break. Start lining things up, not tightening anything down. Insert the fitted pieces nice and slowly,,, if I remember right, use oil at fittings paying attention to rubber rings and NO forcing... Aluminum is a wonderful awful thing, lol. Envision the job and placement.

After go back in placing fasteners, remembering your using steel on aluminum... Don't over tighten, rely more on the precise fits to do their job.

if you took EVERYTHING off at once,,, well, I can see how that would suck, lol.

I am a 65 year old with arthritic joints and lousy vision and ,after much moaning and some cussing, I managed to get this job done. The advice given was spot on, you lose basically the amount of oil in the hoses. The joint at the engine block is hard to see but not too bad to put back by feel. I would advise cleaning the entire area before disassembly so that you don't accidentally jam some debris in the 'o' ring joints during re-assembly. And remember that you are putting steel bolts into an aluminium block and fittings so be careful with the torque. I used a bit of blue lock-tight for extra security.

SNG Barratt US is in New England and they supply the hoses WITH 'O' rings attached :)

High Pressure Side?
 

hi,


there is no high and low pressure side. if the valve in the engine block is opened, the pressure in engine, hoses and cooler are almost the same.

a little transmission fluid on the new o-rings makes reassembly much easier.