Which to pick? 1999 no major problems, 2006 w/issues
 

Oops, that should be a 2006, not a 2026.

I'm narrowing down my choices for an XK8 convertible. The two I'm seriously looking at are both under 100K miles and owners firm on prices.

For $3000 is a 1999, no major issues. Owner says that he replaced the valve cover gasket and put in a rebuilt ABS module, but has the original timing chain tensioners. Overall in good shape, good test drive. 50 miles from me.

The other one is a 2006, $1500, but getting ABS, Trac Not Available, low engine power (limp mode?) but can get up to highway speed if you're patient. Seller disconnected the battery overnight, still has the messages, he didn't drive it. Good condition otherwise, but interior leather has some cracks from age. Has the nav system ( . . .whoopiee . . .). 250 miles from me.

Is the 2006 enough better to get it and hope that the problems are simple and cheap, or should I get the older one that drives just fine?

check the subject, i was wtf 1999 vs new???? what your asking is a hard choice, but i would say the 1999. you dont have to put money into it, you can drive it until it drops and you only pay 3k. that is like renting a car from avis for a little over a month..... if you are handy you can change the tensioners. if you are not handy it will cost you 2k to change out the tensioners so you can just gamble on it.

My 2c:
Of the two, I would pick the 1999, but you may be better off holding out for one that has had the typical issues already addressed (chain tensioners, transmission fluid, front suspension refurbishment, thermostat housing, valley hoses, octopus hose). You'll obviously pay a bit more for it, but quite possibly less than you'd spend to have these items taken care of on the 1999, and you'd get to enjoy it with less to worry about right away.

The 2006 will presumably be the 4.2 which is definitely the better engine choice but I think the earlier car is more attractive. The fault will probably be something simple, most likely a battery or earth issue or a sensor fault. Disconnecting the battery will not fix it.

Provided that the interior and body are good, I would take the car which is 7 years newer as the bodywork should be in better condition. However that is primarily because I can do all the work myself to get the car sorted without firing the parts cannon at it

If you have to rely on garages to do the work, then the older car would probably be the better bet providing that you get the cam chain tensioners changed asap.

Richard

It all depends whether you want a project or not. The best solution is to buy both and then you'll have a parts car for the one you end up liking the most.

I agree - buy both and then make a decision once you've had time to dig into them both.

It sounds like the consensus is that there's not enough difference between them for a clear winner. This makes getting the one that's running properly a better choice.

I drove the closer one yesterday, and I'll be going to check out the other one today. I'll take a scanner with me to check codes, and maybe figure out what the real problem is.

Sounds like a great plan, let us know what you find!

Maintenance records? A car with no documentation of maintenance is always one I would walk away from.

I think you should buy my XKR instead ;)

Well, I have decided.

Candidates were:

1999, 96k miles, silver with black interior, very good condition except a minor ding on the right rear corner, the right read window doesn't go down, driver's seat shows some age and it has the factory tensioners. New battery, recent top, Pioneer stereo, 40 miles from home. $3000 firm

1998, stunningly beautiful red with tan, EXCELLENT condition and obviously garaged when they weren't putting 105k miles on it, and new battery. This is the car that comes to mind when someone says "Jaguar" . . .but, unfortunately, also P7122 code, limp mode, on the other side of the Sierra Nevada mountain range (185 miles from here). $2500 firm. Would have to leave one car, get home, go back and get the other either by train or air.

2006, silver with tan or white (haven't seen it except in pics), good condition but limp mode, ABS light and Trac no worky message. Also on the other side of the Sierra, and about 60 miles further than the red one. $1500, maybe a little flexible on price. Dunno how one of me would be able to bring two cars back home (no train or airline service in the area).

Envelope please . . .and the winner is . . .1999 silver with no codes! I wish it had the red paint and the 2006 engine, but it seems to be the best choice, though the most expensive. I'm looking for something to play with, not a project (got too many projects already). Looking online, it looked like the simplest cause on the red one would have been low trans fluid, but it got mechanical after that. When I pick it up tomorrow, I can go DRIVE it.

Anyone over in the People's Republic of Gavistan who would be interested in the others, the 2006 is on FB Marketplace (Napa) and the red one is on craigslist (Elk Grove). Nice sellers.

Thanks for the help deciding!

I really don't want a turbo. I don't need the utmost performance, and turbos are an added failure point.

1) it’s a supercharger, not a turbocharger. They are meaningfully different.

2) the primary failure points in the 4.0 XK8’s would be the cam chain tensioners and the A/T A drum. Both of which will be more expensive to fix than a supercharger failure. The 4.0 XKR uses a different, and more reliable, transmission.

3) since the cam chain tensioners have not already been replaced, don’t drive the car until this failure point has been corrected, even the 40-50 miles
back home is a serious risk. The tensioners fix is not expensive if done before they fail. Not so inexpensive afterwards. The tensioners are the ultimate ticking time bomb of the 4.0 cars.

4) good luck with your car. The hunt is always the most fun part. Once you’ve caught one, the real work begins.

Okay, didn't know it's a mechanical charger. But the other part is that you're not in the neighborhood, and probably want a lot more than I wanted to spend (I'm a cheapskate).

Rog on the tensioners. Gotta drive it home, but replacement is at the top of the list.

The rear window repair is a lot of work. If you can DIY you'll only be out several hours and a couple hundred for rebuilding the regulator. If you have to pay to have it done, it may cost 50% of your purchase price, or a bit more, depending on local shop rates.

You might be lucky and the rear window is just a failed relay or fuse - check those first as the left and right sides are wired completely separately.

When I see these prices, it seems truly unbelievable to me, here in Europe, especially in Italy, these cars cost 4 to 5 times as much!

The reason I prefer the 4.0 cars is the lack of the VID block modules.
The early cars can be diagnosed and repaired with USED modules as long as the VCATS match.
You CANNOT do that with the VID block cars. Some modules can be swapped for diagnosis or repair but NOT ALL.
The CAN bus modules are difficult to get them to 'play-nice' with one another.
Just my reasons for the long term ownership.

Congrats on your decision. We also have a ‘99 convertible with similar miles and have been more than pleased. Actually purchased it over in your neighborhood in 2024! Obviously the chain tensioners are long overdue for replacement. Please do not delay this critical service.

^^^^^

there is no “typical” failure mileage for the cam chain tensioners. I think it must have to do with number of the heat cycles more than the actual mileage. But since there’s never been a scientific study of this issue one guess is as good as the next.

The previous owner of my 2002 XKR thought that since the car had 115,000 miles on it then he was past the point of likely disaster, so the failure was never going to happen.

His complacency cost him $5,000.

whether your car has 40,000 miles or 140,000 miles, if you have no service records detailing the switch to the type 3 tensioners, then just don’t drive it until the repair has been accomplish.

Z