Questions before a purchase....
 

Hi, guys!

I'm looking to purchase a low-mileage 2000 XK8 that appears to be in excellent condition at 158K (and NO Nicasil)...except for a couple mechanical issues. Thus my posting here.

1) According to the seller, it occasionally will not shift past 3rd gear. Once it's shut off and restarted, the condition goes away but will eventually return. Would I be looking at a possible shifter or sensor issue (which I'm fully capable of doing myself) or an immediate introduction to the local trans tech?

2) The car kicks out an intermittent "ABS and gear fault" warning but that also resets itself after restart.Again, something I can DIY or a shop tech issue?

If these issues are something I can address "in-house", I'm seriously considering buying the car this week...therefore any feedback you guys can offer would be greatly appreciated. I've been a Mercedes guy since high school (I'm now 65) and this will be my first foray into Jagland! :>)

Thanks in advance for your insight!!

Whozat, Couple of things. These early transmissions were not the best and a few things can be fixed and kits available. They are a BMW 5 speed of the era. The engine not being a Nicasel engine, would be a later replacement because that was still a problem until about August 2002.
At a guess, lots of things should or would have been done for that amount of mileage.
As you are into fixing what's wrong, you are going to be busy and hope you enjoy the journey.
Look forward to your solutions and lots of direction on this Forum. Just look at the top of the page on How To.
You will need to go an give a little info on yourself and look forward again to expertise.

There are a couple of possibilities for the quirks.
It may be that the battery is not in the best of condition or the alternator is wonky when heated up. Jags are notoriously finicky about voltage.
You may also want to a transmission service with new filter and fluid. The sealed for life has been the downfall of many transmissions in our cars. The shifting is problem a sympton of low fluid.
At any rate I would not consider it a major setback for purchasing if the price is acceptable.

I'm waiting to hear back from the seller to ascertain if he's had the codes pulled (if there are any) and what they are. Once I get them, I'll post them here. RE: the "non-Nikasil" engine...I was under the impression that cars with a "5 digit" VIN were not thusly equipped (correct me if I'm wrong on that) and this car does indeed have 5 digits at the end. The seller claims to have had the timing chain/tensioners/guides done and I've requested whatever docs he may have to that issue.

Thanks, guys! I get the impression we're gonna know each other quite well. I spin a pretty good wrench on MBs but realize I'll have to get my knowledge up to speed on Jaguars! LOL!!

Whozat, here is a good read and my relieve some stress on your concerns. Not a big deal anymore, once in a while we hear of someone moving the car to wash it and then a no start.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...canada-183917/

Whozat's first foray into the Jag world
 

Whozat,

Welcome to this Jaguar Forum. From your experiences with Mercedes, it sounds like that this 19 year old 158k mile X100 isn't going to be an issue for you. Too many people jump in without knowing the difficulties of owning a old luxury high end European car. Once you get the Jaguar exactly how you like it, the X100 is a beautiful, powerful, comfortable GT cruiser that has the undefinable "Grin" factor. Hell, sometimes I just sit in my garage looking at the car with a smile on my face.

Get the car's full service history if it's available and (quote ".... whatever docs....") The POs may have already done a lot of the "leg work" considering it's excellent condition. You're probably well aware that for old cars a higher mileage well maintained car, is preferable to a low mileage "not cared for" car.

As for your possible problems.
1. Transmission not shifting into 3rd. First thing is whether the transmission fluid and filter has been changed. If not that's well overdue and possible low ATF could be the cause. Ignore the "sealed for life" claims. A home DIY fix is possible but get the right ATF for the car, and an OEM filter. Some of the after market filters are known to "whine." One sleeve seal is known to leak, leading to low ATF levels. If you're in there, and don't mind working on the gearbox valve body, put in the Transgo upgrade valve body kit as a preventative measure (it's cheap considering the cost if the gearbox goes wrong.)

2. The ABS fault could be as simple as dirty wheel sensors, or bad cable harnesses at the front (known fault that the cables were fitted not long enough for steering full lock. Moving on to more serious possible causes, it could be the wheel bearings as the reluctor ring isn't lined up with the ABS sensor, and/or the ABS module has bad solder joints. The latter is a known Jaguar Forum DIY fix (so long as you're brave enough hacking into the sealed unit)

Good luck with your purchase and let us know what you decide.

158K may be a low mileage MB, but that is a pretty high mileage Jag.

75K (1/2 of 158K) would be considered a "low mileage" 2000 X100.

My 82K mile '97 had multiple issues and my 42K mile '98 XJ had even more. Nicasil, at this point, should not be an issue Cars with any nicasil issues would have been junked years ago.

With 158K miles all of the following needs to have been done (you need to see receipts from the seller):

Complete primary and secondary timing chain/tensioner replacement $600 + a week if you do it yourself, $1,500-$2,500 if you pay someone. Don't confuse this with Secondary tensioners, only (a 4 hour job that costs $150). A 158K mile car need EVERYthing, not just secondaries.

New shocks/Shock mounts/suspension bushings $700 if you do it yourself, $2,000 if you pay someone

Look close for torn ball joint boots ($400/Torn boot X up to 4, if you pay someone)

Wheel bearings and rear 1/2 shafts could also be an issue with 158K miles. Bearing are $350-500 each to replace $15 bearings.

If the car has EVER been driven on salted roads add 25% to the repair prices I quoted for frozen broken bolts/nuts.

If the seller can't show objective evidence that this maintenance hasn't been done, subtract the repairs off $5000 (the current max value of a 100% rust free, good paint, good interior, working top, 158K mile X100 with transmission shifting issues and an ABS light, and don't be surprised if the guy isn't paying you to take it off his hands.

Yes, in the Future, X100's will be a very collectable car, but only AFTER all of the stuff I mentioned is 100%.

My ABS problem began as intermittent, then on more than off, then on steady. I removed the module, opened it up, and resoldered the two connections that failed. No problems since.
Enjoy the car!

RE: the mileage. True, I don't even blink when I see a MB with 150+ on the clock. Beyond regular "wear item" maintenance and the occasional hiccup ( to be expected with ANY car), I consider that kind of usage "just broken in." My "DD" is a '98 W210 E-class Lorinser with 185K on it and it's completely reliable. The car I traded for it new was an '85 300SD Turbo Diesel with 395K and I'd never been without the car overnight in all the years I owned it.

RE: the XK...it's a two-owner West LA car that has never been further east than Vegas so I'm assured there isn't a speck of rust anywhere on it (incl the carriage.) Based on the pics I've seen, I have no reason to question that. It was recommended that I R&R the shock mount bushing on the driver side as the seller thinks it's a bit wonky. I currently reside in Midwest "salt country" but the XK will spend its winters hibernating indoors with my '94 W140 S500 and '98 R129 500SL, neither one of which has ever seen a snowflake..I refuse to consider any car that's spent its life in a "4 season" state.

Anyway, as soon as I get a chance to fully review the service records, I'll make a determination on the car. I've long admired the XJ but have been a bit hesitant about owning one. However, I'm finally ready to take the plunge.

You guys have been quite helpful and I appreciate it greatly!!

If the shock mounts haven't been done, that points to all of the shocks being original. Not a hard job, but $700 in parts by the time you also replace the spring isolators, wishbone bushings and all of the other parts you see need replacing while you are in there. Since the front shocks are load bearing, the lower bushings are likely toast. and the rears have foam that costs nearly 1/2 as much as new shocks to replace, it just makes sense to buy all new shocks vs. refurbing the old ones.

A rust free example is a dream to work on and repairs are easier than on a lot of other cars, if you like the satisfaction of solving mechanical challenges, Jags are a lot of fun for not much money. They are excellent hobby car for people with cars as their primary hobby.