Right side upper timing belt tensioner
 

I’m replacing the upper, secondary timing belt tensioners on my 97 XK8 convertible. The left side (with the oil dipstick) went fine. I’m on the right side with old tensioner out. I can’t get the new tensioner to line up with mounting holes. There is a little metal “ear” on the high side of the tensioner that touches part of the upper camshaft and prevents the bolts and mounting holes from lining up. I thought maybe I got the wrong part, but all of the pictures I’ve seen have this little metal tab on the high side. Am I missing something? Thanks.

I changed mine for the latest all-metal type (with plastic chain runners) on my 97 XK8 convertible 10 years ago and both sides fitted equally easily. I can't remember there being any difference between the right and left tensioners, other than their handedness.

You are fitting the right hand side the right way up? If so, surely it must be a case of jiggling it into place?

Richard

Yep, I had it in there, with the little red temporary push pin on top and facing toward the front of the car, and the mounting holes will not line up due to that little metal tab. The OEM tensioner didn’t have the tab. I am going to post some pics today. Maybe that will help. Thank you for chiming in on my dilemma. 🙂

I see. The metal tensioners I fitted were purchased at the Jag dealers in Cheltenham and were genuine OEM parts.

I wonder if the aftermarket version fits several models but it's not quite right for the early X100's?

Richard

The CHAIN tensioners are 'sided' and one is installed UPSIDE DOWN as viewed from the other.

You are trying to install them both the same.

Thanks guys. I figured it out. I was trying to install it according to the suppliers pics with the temporary push pin on top. I decided to install it upside down and hope for the best. But first, I better look at some pics on the forum and saw that is the correct way. I’m a bit concerned though, as the red engine light came on when I started it up. I immediately shut it down. Is this normal after opening the valve cover? I don’t dare let it idle too long.

It should settle down if you let it idle. If everything sounds good and the oil pressure is up then there is no reason not to let it run. Do you have an ODB reader to check for fault codes and then clear them?

Richard

I don’t have a reader. I DID inadvertently touch my socket to a cable from the battery when I was attempting to remove that bottom left screw from the valve cover and it sparked. I don’t know if that had anything to do with the warning lights. Maybe I should disconnect and re-connect the battery. I’ll start it again tomorrow and keep an eye on the oil pressure. I really appreciate your input and I enjoy working on the car. I’ve had it 13 years and have put about 30k on it. I would probably have sold it years ago if not for the forum. But I like tinkering with it.

In the absence of a code reader then that is the right thing to do. Remove both the cables from the battery terminals and then hold the two loose cable ends together for a few seconds. The engine will run slightly roughly when you reconnect the cables and start it but the warning light might be gone. The rough running will settle down as you run the engine.

It sounds as if you shorted a live connection to ground. I wouldn't normally expect that to trigger a fault unless the engine was running at the time, which it obviously wasn't.

Richard

And get yourself a decent OBDII scanner. Gotta have one to truly keep these cars in prime condition....