Don't ignore those "weird sounds" guys.

104k miles on my 2002 XKR and finally got the dreaded "chain slap". For those wondering, looks like the right bank secondary tensioner lost a shoe and the guide rail is definitely cracked:




I ordered all the parts and some new tools to do the job correctly, hoping to dig into it this weekend.

-David

 

 

Looks like you already have metal-bodied secondaries. Shoe looks OK?:



Where did the idea of making the slipper guides out of something akin to biscuits come from?
More ammunition, if any were needed, for the 'do the lot while you're in there' advisors and you will sleep better.

Good luck.

 

Although it's a 2002, it looks like someone replaced the secondaries but the primary tensioners and guides are the old plastic bodied ones. Replacing everything.

 

Always better to replace everything that's behind the breast plate while you're in there, it's a mission just to get to it in the first place and you certainly don't want to be doing it two or three times for the sake of saving a few pennies.
Add into that the satisfaction of knowing that the major parts are good again and you're back to being a happy jag driver.

 

Folks,
I'm getting a pretty nasty slap from my 1997 XK8 as well. I replaced the secondary tensioners 10 years and 40,000 miles ago so I'm assuming the original primaries finally gave up. I'm sure it's in the forum somewhere but I cannot find it, so can someone point me to the procedure to strip down the front of the engine such that I can get inside the timing cover, and then also the procedure to just replace the primary tensioners and flaps?
Many thanks,
Mark

 

Take time to review the AJ Engine Course for the timing chain and tensioner replacement:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqpy3bbjzd...e_168.pdf?dl=0

Use the search function on this forum as this topic has been discussed several times.

 

NBCat,
Thank you. Will do.
Mark

 

Nemesis,

Some notes on my timing chain and tensioner replacement project are below. Mostly you need a good set of 1/4" and 3/8" sockets and extensions (and swivels), a 1/2" breaker bar and 24mm socket, flat screwdriver, flashlight, pliers, etc. Typical hand tools.

Remember the AJV8 isn't timed at TDC and has no timing marks. You need to use the special tools listed below and follow Jaguar's directions to maintain timing.

If you are able to work indoors, remove the hood gas struts and place the hood in the service position. Use two 1/2" bolts in the hinge securing holes to keep the hood vertical. I used bungee cord from top of hood (latch hoops) to an eye hook in my shop ceiling to secure it from flapping around. Probably not a good idea if you are working outside, as you don't want the wind to catch it, so it'd probably be a better idea to remove the hood completely in that case. I found I could reach everything fine with the hood in the service position.

I was able to get pretty good prices on all the gaskets, seals, O-rings and tools from a variety of sources:

Amazon - Iwis brand Timing chains ($211.68)
- Shop Iron 24" Chain Wrench ($33.19)
- 9pc Timing tool kit for Jaguar/Land Rover, KAHE brand ($45.99)

FCP Euro - Tensioners, Chain guides, new thermostat ($377.46) (lifetime warranty on ALL parts - gotta love FCP Euro)

Rock-Auto - Gaskets, O-rings, Water pump, seals, etc. (Ford interchange) ($172.45)

Total (so far): $550.00-ish. Not bad considering most repair shops would be over $3000.



General steps:
Disconnect battery
Remove air intake tube from throttle body to airbox
Remove airbox
Remove coil pack covers
Remove coils and gently tuck coil wires out of way
Remove valve covers. Inspect tensioners (good flashlight, borescope helped too but wasn't required)
Drain coolant. I just removed lower radiator hose. Clean coolant off boots. Remember to pick up enough cat litter to absorb two gallons of coolant off shop floor (yeah, most missed the pan...)
Remove accessory/Supercharger drive belts
Remove drive belt tensioners and idler pulleys
Remove thermostat housing and hoses. On the XKR I removed the steam line at the coolant reservoir to avoid fiddling with the funky plastic fitting at the thermostat housing, leaving the line connected and removed with the housing.
Remove water pump.

LOOSEN but do not remove the harmonic damper to crankshaft bolt using a 24mm socket, the largest breaker bar you own, and something to hold the damper from turning. You do not want the engine to turn counter-clockwise. I used a 24" chain wrench with a scrap piece of heater hose over the chain to protect the belt grooves on the damper. I also needed to use a pipe extension on the breaker bar.

Remove Crank position sensor and inspection cover at transmission bell housing. Let the CPS just hang. From up top, use a 24mm socket on the harmonic damper pulley bolt, turn engine clockwise (from front of engine) until you see the "flats" on the front-most cam lobes just starting to come into "locking position". This is where the flats allow the installation of the cam locking tool on the heads. Back under the car with a flat blade screw driver, you can use the screwdriver to "lever" the ring gear for final adjustment to get the locking pin through the CPS sensor mounting hole into the correct hole in the flex plate. Replace the CPS sensor bolt to hold the locking pin in place.

Back up top, you should now be able to bolt the camshaft locking bars in place.

Holding the damper immobile with the previously mentioned tool (you DO NOT want to put stress on either the flexplate locking pin or the camshaft locking bars) you can now remove the crank/damper bolt. Mine was a royal pain in the butt to remove as the factory locktite "bunches up" in the threads. I seriously thought the bolt was stripped. I used a torch to heat the bolt, partially melting the old locktite, then worked the bolt back and forth a bit as I removed it.

Use a stout damper puller to pull the damper pulley off the crankshaft.

At this point you have access to the 24 or so bolts holding the front cover on the engine. Remove the bolts and cover plate.

That's as far as I've gotten so far as I'm also remodeling a bathroom, and wife set my priorities for the week....

 

 

Cabel,
Great info. Are you replacing both the primary and secondary tensioners? I believe I just have to replace the primaries as I've already done the secondaries. I'm also hoping to retain the original chains and not having to remove them. As such, would the cam locking clamps still be required? I did use them for the secondaries. With that, I'm wondering if I have to be concerned with everything's locations as long as I don't allow the chains to skip on any of the sprockets.

Yes, guilty of lots of wishful thinking and trying to keep it as simple as possible.
Good luck with kitchen and please keep ideas and info coming.

Ltd,
Good ideas on cleaning oil pan and tube. Must be getting crowded in there.

Thanks all,
Mark

 

All,
I finally had a chance to review the engine course that NBCat was good enough to provide. Looks like I should be able to slip in the new primary tensioners and guides without removing the chains. The trick is getting to them. I think the biggest issue will be getting the damper pully off. Questions - is the 24mm nut of a standard thread direction, or is it a "Left handed" thread? Would be important to know before applying pressure to it. Also, is there really enough room to get a good puller in there without banging through the radiator? Looks kind of tight.
Thanks again for any and all recommendations,
Mark

 

 

Thanks LTD. Also in reading the Crank Damper Removal procedure in the 303-10 Tech Bulletin, Action #5 talks about holding the crankshaft "by holding the torque converter with a lever, as described in the manual". Does anyone have that manual description handy that they can share? Looks like a key process that really needs to be done correctly.
Mark

 

I wish you guys with the failures would tell the rest of us how many miles are on your cars.

 

 

I replaced the secondary tensioners on my 1997 XK8 with 118,000 miles on it in 2008. The car now has 158,000 miles.
Mark

 

You were lucky, 435. I replaced my secondary at 41,000 and they had already started to show the failure coming. See pictures in my sticky on this subject.

 

Mine has 104k miles. Currently waiting on time to get back out in the garage and put it all back together. I did have one minor snafu - the primary timing chains sent from my supplier where incorrect - they sent the later "5 link toothed" style, while my engine has sprockets for the earlier "bicycle chain" style primaries. No big deal, just now have to wait to send back the incorrect ones and get the older style chains.

 

OK, hope to get back on this this weekend. New correct parts arrived and I'm getting over the flu, so should be able to get back in the garage (as long as the heater is working!)

One thing I HIGHLY recommend before jumping off the deep end like I did (i.e, beginning the disassembly prior to making sure I had the correct parts), is check your engine ID number. Don't assume anything. My car's VIN is low enough to be the first week of production as a 2002 MY, and my engine was manufactured in June of 2001. I had assumed it was a later engine, but Terry's Jaguar Parts fixed me up with the correct timing kit with the right chains.

Also, I had to pick up a new WiFi Endoscope for my phone in order to see the engine ID number. There is no way (that I could find) to directly view the stamped number on the block, just above the steering rack, without one:




What a PITA location to put the Serial Number!!

More later - C