I own a 1999 xk8 4.0 and have started to get an error which I know that this must be covered somewhere on thousands of occasions but I have the dreaded "Traction Control/ Stability Control Failure" and have found plenty posts on this subject but all involve "restricted performance" "Safe Mode", this is not the case on my instance.
I have no error or warning light until the car reaches approximately 20kph/ 15mph, then yellow warning light and the above fault appears.
I have cleaned TB, ABS Sensors and replaced the rear one with a known good one, checked, fault still there, used replacement in next sensor area etc but still persists. Additional info - all ABS Sensors and wiring checked from ABS Module and return the following, which I believe are within spec

RH Front - 1.023k, RH Rear - 1.019k, LH Front - 1.023k LH rear - 1.024k

ABS Module itself???

Checked resistance across the ABS 2 pin plug, to motor and obtained 33.1ohm then checked the same pins onto the control unit and got infinity. Have read somewhere that reading above 4ohm meant that pump was at fault and reading below 2ohm meant that module was at fault. Can anyone out there confirm this? What should be the readings expected from my module, a LNC2210AD?

Any further ideas?

Have I missed something or got something wrong?
Help either way would be really appreciated.

Stav

 

Missed the obvious myself, I believe. Correct me if I am wrong but if I check the resistance across the two pin plug (Power Input) and then get an open circuit (infinity) the one or both of the pins must be loose/ dry jointed or not making contact with the PCB and this I believe is covered on various occasions as a standard repair to the ABS controller, anyway, tomorrow I will take off and check inside the module.

Stav

 

Hi,

Did you fix the problem with your traction abs module?

 

I have what sounds like the same issue, also tried resoldering control module power solder joints and no luck...

 

A wheel speed sensor could be damaged/bad. If the ABS detects a wheel speed a few MPH greater than the others, it will trigger a fault. I was able to monitor a member's car via AutoEngenuity and his LR wheel speed was always consistently 2-3 mph faster than all the others. It wasn't enough to trigger a fault, but I have read in the documention that it will if the difference is considerable. Your fault occurring only after reaching a certain speed leads me to this possible cause, since the computer will not want to 'compare' each wheel until it is at a speed that if faulty, will affect safety. The AE can nail down which corner is triggering your fault, if it is a sensor issued fault. My suggestion is to either find a shop that has this 3rd party Scanner and software, or one with a WDS/IDS system that the dealer uses. Or, worse case, suck it up and pay the diagnostic fee at the dealer and do any repairs yourself. Sometimes the cost of a dealer evaluation is worth your sanity.

 

Is Autoenginuity together with the Jaguar specific expansion pack equivalent to the dealer diagnostic tool? I know it reads ABS codes, etc, is there anything it doesnt do vs. the dealer?

Considering how often my dash lights up like a Christmas tree, yet how much I irrationally still like this car, I'm thinking of investing in the Autoenginuity bundle together with the Jag expansion to narrow this (and the inevitably future) bugs down...

 

The AE software does alot more then just codes. When I had the Stab/Trac happening Matt was kind enough to loan me his copy to check. I'm sure he can fill you in better on all it does.

In regard to your fault; If it was the solders joints, the error would be on all the time, not like Stavross where it would come on after you reach 15-20mph. The only time it might be intermittent I'm thinking would be when it was first loosing connection.

I would lean more towards a bad wheel sensor or something along that line if it only comes on once you start driving.

 

On the other hand, that solder-joint thingy can show up intermittently ... vibration I guess plays a role.

There's not much inside a sensor, so if one is bad it's likely to fail the DC resistance test that goes on at start-up. Thinking back over all the failures reported here, among those that were intermittent I bet at least half turned out to involve the last section of wiring, and the connectors, leading to the front sensors. These of course have to move and flex with steering inputs.

Doing the DC resistance check to the front sensors while turning the steering lock-to-lock can expose this. Best to use an analog meter, as a little blip may be all that shows up and this is hard to see with a digital.

Good luck.

 

what about a damaged ABS ring (or loose) if that's hinky, the sensor output is likely to be all over the place. Still need to know which corner your dealing with, and that leads back to the AE or the dealer WDS/IDS. BTW, AE can't communicate both ways like the dealer equipment, so asking the car to perform certain actions (like opening a CCV) won't work with the AE. However, the AE has handled 95% of all of my needs.

 

That's what I meant by intermitently dennis, I guess I should go into a little more detail. I know when my acted up, some days it would be on when I started the car. Other days it wouldn't come on at all. It never came on while driving though. I did have it come on a few times when I was sitting at a light.

If it seems to be repeating the same thing, it sounds like the abs unit is doing it's job by detecting an fault. It counts the pulses from each wheel and if ther is enough of a difference it faults. Wether the error is due to a sensor, bad cable, or difference in tire size, that's what needs to be determined.

I could be wrong but that was just my expereience.

 

Me too.

It's been pointed out here more than once that without reading codes we're just guessing. But there's guessing, and then there's guessing, right? Seems to me that by noting when -- under what conditions -- faults appear, and by looking at the resistances to the sensors, enough information can sometimes be teased out to find our way to the problem.

For example when sitting still, and in fact up to ~ 5 to 10 MPH (don't know the exact speed in our cars) there's no measurement of relative wheel speeds going on. So if a fault pops up then, its not, for example, dirty wheel sensors.

On the other hand, dirty sensors often DO cause a fault, and Rev. Sam has a video on cleaning them. If a fault occurs only at speeds where wheel sensor signals ARE being compared ... say 20 MPH + ... then dirty sensors are a prime suspect.

So I was just commenting on ways to try to make educated guesses.

 

ABS/Traction control has been an adventure for many and reading the codes is the right way to go, but if a code reader is not an option then testing with a volt/ohm meter will do the job. If you are adventurous this information / check list might help and I hope it does.

Link Jaguar ABS Repair

 

Two quick note on sensor resistance testing:

- Some published specs give a value of ~ 1k ohms for the sensor resistance. This is the wrong value for later cars. As of MY 2001 (maybe earlier, not sure) the value had changed to ~ 2k ohms. Most telling is whether or not the four sensors read about the same.

- A "static" test will pick up a bad sensor but may miss an intermittent open circuit in the wiring to one of the front sensors, and this condition is common. Two ways at that: one is to exercise the steering (lock to lock), the other to sort of wiggle the wiring near the front sensors. Both while watching for any change in the resistance.

 

The sheet is for a 1999 and that is what he has.

 

In case anyone's not clear, my comment was a general one. Not sure what would cause anyone to assume otherwise.

 

It seemed pretty clear from this side.

 

Gday Stav,

I was wondering if you finalised the issue with the ABS problems.
I have the same unit LNC 2210AD and was wondering if you could somehow post some pics of how you check the wiring for resistance to see if the sensors or pump/module is at fault.

I have a 99 XJR and the light came on imtermitantly, then more often till finally it is just on.

I have removed the sensors to clean only to find they all have scuff marks on the ends. Is this normal? When you cleaned yours did they have scuff marks?

Dale.

 

Just an update guys, thanks to Sam's wheel sensor cleaning video I took the time this weekend to clean them up and so far so good...no more ABS/ASC code!!!

I was surprised how easy it was to do, didn't even have to jack the car up, just reach in and feel for it, unclip, and 8mm socket ratchet them off.

On another note...how often do you have to clean these damn things?

 

Depending on where you live, I'd say worst case is once a year. I haven't cleaned mine in a few years, but I don't live on a dirt road, nor do I use the OEM brake pads anymore, which really dust up the hubs and accumulate on the sensors after long term use.

 

Gday Pomosv,

I have looked for the cleaning video and cany find.

Could you possibly post the link please?

Cheers.