I've been having a (brand new AGM) battery get to 60% charge after only about 4 days. Seems to have been getting gradually worse over months.

Today I did the ammeter test, and after going through at least two sleep stages of c. 400ma and 240ma, it bottomed out at 30ma, tested both unlocked and armed.

One thing that changed was I started using the second remote, which seems to work better (more range, don't have to press as hard) than the first one.

I'm wondering if the old remote could have kept the car awake somehow?

The other thing that's different is the battery was disconnected for about 1 second which I attached the ammeter. This is maybe what cleared up the no-radio and Nav-on symptoms I was seeing.

Not really a question or answer, hopefully this info might help someone else.

BTW- the trick method I learned today for this is to open the hood, doors and trunk, then use a screwdriver to set all the latches closed. This way the computer thinks everything is shut but you can still access the (5!) fuse boxes.

 

Good thinking about the screwdriver.

Jojn

 

Have you lubed the tiny key flap in your ignition switch with graphite powder? Those key flaps can get stuck in the open position and become the source of a pesky battery drain....

 

Quick question. I think that I have the key flap drain problem. How do you lube this flap with graphite powder? My guess would be to just coat the key and insert it?

 

Yep, that is indeed the best method. Do it several times, then be sure to clean the graphite powder off the key before you pocket it....

 

My ignition keyhole flap appears to be about half closed and moving as expected.

However, if it was sticking open, wouldn't the car beep when the door is opened, just as if it does with the key left in?

 

You would think so, but I would not assume anything....

 

Good point- the beep might not be triggered by the same mechanism that causes the 'stay awake' problem. Anyone know?

 

Ophitoxaemia, would you please review your your ammeter connection procedure?
Thanks,

 

Ophitoxaemia, if still have problem I just resolved mine as follows.

- First I disconnected battery to make sure it was ok, no drain OK.

- Next I put my multimeter in series on the negative battery terminal and measured drain, i had 70 milliamps should be 30 milliamps.

- Note, I tried the ignition key flap cause and that was not it.

- I pulled the fuses till I found a 40 mamp drain.

- Went to the wrining diagrams and found the components tied to the fuse, two modules and a relay.

- Relay easiest solution so my first replacement, purchased relay from rock auto $4.50 , plugged it in and problem solved.

- Note it takes the car 45 minutes to go to sleep after any activity.

Good luck

 

I need some assistance on using the Volt/Ohm/Amp meter for testing drain. I connect the Amp Meter between the negative battery terminal and the ground cable as shown in the Video on the "Battery Drain" thread.

My meter is set for 10 amps and when I make the connection I get a spark on the negative post when connecting. Instead of getting a steady reading on the meter it show a series of different readings and does not settle on one value.

Am I doing something wrong.

Also, should I wait any period of time between shutting everything off and connecting the meter?

 

I disconnected the negative battery ground and of course shut off all power to the car. Immediately I connected my multi-meter to complete the circuit and the car comes back to life. At first you get a much higher amp reading as the modules come on line and the car resets itself. It was at least 3 amps and likely more. This value will fluctuate but after 45 minutes the car should be in sleep mode. At this time on the ten amp setting your should read 0.03 if all is fine. This is 30 milliamps. (make sure not on volts setting). In my case the car final value was 0.07 so I was over factory settings by 40 miliamps.

As you pull fuses in some cases you will actually get a rise in the amps being pulled. I believe these are fuses that cause modules to come back online. The value will again drop over time. My drain was easy to detect as when I pulled the fuse i had a direct 40 mamp drop.

 

Pin 4 to 5 is the key in key out switch as the 5 pin on the car side is the chassis ground .

The rotational switches control the king power relays and can be still closed as a fault .

Had a pic somewhere of the pin #'s

 

Kent- I connected my ammeter between the negative terminal on the battery and the negative battery cable. My meter has a 200ma fused and a 10amp unfused, so I need to use the 10amp setting and reads to 10ma increments.

Sat for several days, down to 60% as measured by my charger. It sure seems like it's drawing more than the 30ma-40ma I measured with the alarm on.

 

I used the 10 amp setting also. Did you run the amp meter outside the boot and just monitor it?

 

As I noted in the original post, I set the latches closed.

It occurs to me now that might not have shut off the trunk lights, though I think I would have noticed them on.

 

Here is a pic of the ignition switch with the pin map which is the same for the X100 , X300 and X308 . If the key in / key out doesn't change the car doesn't go to sleep . Pin 4 to 5 ( the ground )

On a side note I found on my X300 the steering column would not auto retract / tilt up as commanded on key out therefor the car would not go to sleep in the circuit followup agreement that it has arrived at the car exit position ( up and retracted ) .

As you rotate the key you might find the other 1 - 3 pins to 5 ground may not completely open or lose the ground , those go to the king relays

 

I am trying to isolate a parasitic drain and I checked my key switch and the door is only half way closed. Would this cause a drain and if so does lubricating the door with graphite usually solve the problem?

 

Do you mean the key flap in the ignition switch? If so, yes, lube it with graphite powder. And yes, a stuck flap is known to cause a parasitic battery drain....

 

Yes, the key flap. It was about 1/2 open. I lubricated the key and flap today and it now closes about 2/3rds. Tried lubricating it several time and this was the best I could do. Any suggestions?