help with tensioners, left bank is done
 

guys, I started this morning on the left bank, at the point when I need to lift the lower cam shaft, everything is removed. god damn thing would not budge, i see it separating from the bearing on the right side but other than that even when i try to pull with all my strength, nothing. should i keep applying force up on the right hand side where it is already started to separate.

If I'm picturing this right, this is a little scary. It is possible to snap the cam by applying "bowing" force to it. Are all of the bearing caps completely removed? If so, suggest you replace them, retighten them -- a little at a time -- and regroup. The only safe way to remove the cam is by slowly relieving pressure on each bearing a little at a time.

Not sure what could be holding the cam in its current state.

Dennis,
i removed all caps slowly as instructed on this forum, the cam did not move at all. i started pulling up on one end, both ends, etc no movement. finally i saw separation on one end. i then applied quite a force up near the sprocket and the whole thing became loose. the old tensioner kinda popped out, is there suppose to be a spring inside cause i cant find it

Sorry; I didn't quite understand where you were.

I'm only familiar with the 2nd and 3rd gen tensioners. These both have springs. I think you might have 1st gen; springs in these? I don't know.

mine is 1997 so it is probably 1st generation, started to put it back together...

The more I think about it... pretty sure 1st gen, which is what you had if they're original, did not have springs.

Somebody will surely correct this if it's wrong.

many thanks i was going crazy trying to find it

starting to button things up many thanks for your help

I did mine about a month ago. I have a 2000 MY XK8 with red tensioners. thought they were 1st gen, but might be wrong. I am 99% sure that mine had springs in them. I am at work right now but I will check them later on tonight. Might want to hold up on the "button up" process.

Left side is back together, everything works. I will post some questions later on. Took me forever, thanks everyone for your help. Once I get to the right side I'll know for sure if there was a spring. I got to say, bottom right bolt on the gasket cover is freaking impossible to get to, that alone took a long time.

Few follow-up questions. Someone posted here before regarding cheap-arse plastic used for these cars. Well, one of the coil connectors fell off as I was taking it off:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/xk8/th_2.jpg

When putting everything back together I plugged terminals directly into a coil:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/xk8/th_1.jpg

Is this OK, if not what do I do about getting a replacement.
Also, insulation on one of the wires was so brittle that it broke exposing 1/4" piece of copper wire, I just taped it with electric tape.

Lastly tubing for a thingy shown below cracked as I was removing it:
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/xk8/th_3.jpg
I repaired it with a heat shrink tubing, could someone tell me what it is for.

Once again thank you, this was not a pleasant experience. Hoping the right one will be easier since I now have a bit of experience.

That's the Part Load Breather.

Paul,
If the tubing is cracked, what would happen? I think I got it all fixed, but just in case would like to know. Thanks.

Massive vacuum leak.

Just so you know, the coil harness does not need to be unplugged.

Unscrew the coil screws, loosen all of the coils from the sparkplugs, maneuver as required to pull all out in one chunk as if you are picking up two handfuls of spaghetti. Rest the resulting mass on top of engine to the rear or down by the rear near the exhaust manifold (on newspaper or paper towel, etc).

If you choose the top, remember to move it somewhere else if you have to close the hood during the job.

that much i could figure out, would the engine perform badly, stall, etc?

good idea with the coils

thanks

I just finished my 2000 last week. I also just posted pictured two days ago. Look for my post using the smiley face and you will find pictures of the second generation tensioners and showing cracks where they fail and also the third generation I installed.

EZDriver

I did see your pics, thank you for posting them it was helpful. Your tensioners did have springs, saw it on the pic. I never found a spring from mine, but the good news is everything is back together and works. I am hoping to do right side on Sunday and will see for sure if there is a spring. My car was manufactured in 1996, title says 1997 so this is most likely first generation.

I searched for quite some time to find those connectors. I started a thread around here almost a year ago on it. The only source I could find was from China, and they wanted a huge quantity for a minimum order, and a corporate account.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nectors-37043/

Here is what I DID find that might be helpful. The Jag V6 uses that same connector on their cam phasors. I have them on my X-type. There is a chance to possibly find them in a scrapyard if you look hard enough.

The other option, and what I did on my old XK8 because I didn't really like the idea of putting on more cheap plastic, was to use the connectors from a ~2000 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L. New terminals must be crimped on to use the Dodge (Yazaki) connectors, but the type of plastic and connector design is MUCH better.

Thanks, I wil look into this. Right now I am inclined to leave it the way I have it connected. Really don't see any downside, unless someone here tells me otherwise. I could probably epoxy or silicone it back together, from electrical connection standpoint don't see any advantages.

I drove mine with at least 1 if not 2 coils that way for a couple of weeks. But long term, I'd just be concerned about the terminals vibrating loose and coming off.

Andy, I think that terminals themselves are providing most of the tension that holding it in place. This said I don't like the idea of leaving things half- done. In your other post it looks like you were able to find them but they were too expensive at $8 each. Did I read it right? If so do you have a source? I don't have an issue with crimping new connectors in general, but insulation on the wires are so brittle that I am afraid to touch it. I read so many post before I attempted tensioners change and was rather comfortable going into it. Plastic parts and insulation falling apart certainly threw me off. Although if I was to take it to my mechanic I imagine he would have the same issues and probably would close it back up without even telling me. I trust the guy but what else could you do if the darn thing is not available.