Bought and replaced 2002 Jaguar XK8 MAF with OEM Genuine Mass Flow Sensor 197400-2160 Fits 2003--2009 MAZDA 6. Way cheaper than OEM and the result was WOW! I have had this abused little kitty for a couple years and never knew it had this kind of potential! It didnt perform perfectly. The car would launch okay but immediatly hesitate and take off again. I kept the Denso unit and cleaned it with MAF cleaner. Thought it might perform better after being cleaned but it must have been on its death bed because Ran like dooky, immediatly had to put the new unit back in. I cleaned and put some dielectric grease on the plug and that seemed to help. Another lease on life for my rescued Jaguar.

 

Note: dielectric grease is designed to impede electrical conductivity, not promote it. It’s supposed to be used on rubber parts like spark plug bolts, rubber bulb covers, etc.

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/dielectric

dielectric

noun
di·​elec·​tric | \ ˌdī-ə-ˈlek-trik \

Definition of dielectric

: a nonconductor of direct electric current

A material that conducts (see conduction) electricity poorly or not at all. If a voltage is applied to a dielectric, the atoms in the material arrange ...



dielectric, insulating material or a very poor conductor of electric current. When dielectrics are placed in an electric field, practically no current flows in them because, unlike metals, they have no loosely bound, or free, electrons that may drift through the material. Instead, electric polarization occurs.


if you want to promote conductivity then a silver or copper conductor paste / grease is the appropriate product . Amazon sells an outstanding silver conducting grease.


MG Chemicals 842AR-P Silver Conductive Pen, 8.6g
Z

 

Ahh yes. I understand. My intended purpose of the grease is to lubricate the seals and protect the contacts from moisture. The cleaning was to promote better contact and conductivity.

 

As long as dielectric grease is not applied to any metal electrical contact, no harm.

Putting it on an electrical contact does not protect anything. Once it’s on a metal contact, any electrical current transmission is in spite of the dielectric grease, not because of it.

Dielectric grease is most misapplied automotive product in existence.

Z

 

Has your front camber changed at all and if so, how did you correct it?

 

Dielectric grease is not taboo! I have been down this road many times and I know from experience it is not a bad thing when used properly on connections.



Its application has been used to eliminate the oxidation that takes place inside the connectors and that eliminates connection problems. When using it in a connector the strike value of both the male and female will clear the way resulting is a good connection and the dielectric grease will prevent moisture from oxidation and attacking the connection.

 

Using dielectric grease directly on a metal contact has no science based beneficial effect. Just because you have “gotten away” with using it on electrical contacts doesn’t mean it was the right thing to do .


Z

 

Correct and Correct....😉

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/wh...ectric-grease/

 

How did you find the Mazda 6 sensor to work as well as the OEM? Is there a site that shows replacement alternatives?

I had a '62 Corvette, once. Found that most '54 Chev Suspension parts were as good as and much cheaper than the 'Corvette' specific parts. This was before the internet(before computers.). Much better/cheaper.

 

YES! As a matter of fact, there is a fantastic forum that has a pretty comprehensive list of compatable parts......guess what .... your on it!
Click on the "Forums" tab in the upper left corner of the home page, drop down to modern x100 and there is a "sticky" towards the top of the list
Happy Hunting

Tim

 

Motor Trend not my go-to source for science education. Their logic does not stand up on a molecular level.

The best grease, if any, to be used on electrical contacts is silver or copper based. With silver being the best of the two.

Electric power utilities, who I do trust to know something about current transmission, routinely use a copper solution on transmission line connections when called for. As the silver compounds being much more expensive.

Z

 

Took my 2002 XK8 out for a ride today. Been a while. Drove really nice, but the engine light came on. Anyone have an idea? Do I have to bring it in to a shop or dealer? TY.

 

it would cheaper to buy your own OBD-II reader than go to the dealer for diagnostics. You may be able to fix it yourself depending on why the light came on.

The reader will communicate with car’s diagnostic systems and display a specific code . This is the information you can use to determine whether you can fix the issue or it requires professional assistance.

Z

PS you mention that’s it’s “been a while” since driving the car.

It’s worth pointing out that these cars do not do well when left sitting & not driven often. Driving the car every opportunity will prolong the life of the car.

Furthermore, Keeping it on a battery tender when not driven overnight or longer is another technique that keeps the car in drivable condition.

 

Did a quick oil/filter change this past weekend. Was thankful again Jaguar put the filter and drain plug where they are, right in front, making that maintenance easy-peasy.

 

Like zray advised. Get a code reader. Make sure the reader can read Jaguar cars for the year range. Example- '97-'02. Some do not. Once you get the codes. Come back to the Forum, type code in search. It will give you a starting point. You don't have to be a tech wiz to operate one. zray is right about letting these cars sit around. Gotta drive it. Beautiful car.
Good Luck
Mitch

 

fmertz;
I am first time Jag owner. Did a lot of research before I bought. I have found that mechanically it's easy to work on. After I sell my '99 convertible, the next one is an '08.
Safe Driving
Mitch

 

Took care of some minor stuff this week. Had the instrument panel out and replaced all the bulbs the other day, so now I can actually read the instruments at night

And just had the glovebox out to clean the blower, which had the “card in bike spokes” gig going on.

Also cleaned my fuel filler area; my car had been parked under a tree by the PO (many thanks, NOT!), and there was literally earth in both the boot shut/hinge area and the fuel filler, which I only noticed today.

I keep knocking off little jobs here and there, and it’s paying off.

 

Still trying to find the pump for the heater ..dont want to try to remove it until I can see it...ran the car and hoses hot but the pump is not running ( shorted 30/87 ) at relay and no circuit.
Any one know where it is ? 97 UK spec coupe

 

Are you sure it's the pump and not the shuttle valve that controls the flow through the matrix?

I have to say while it took me a little time to spot and touch the pump from the top I did it by tracing pipes.

Have you read that post about adding another pump from the top to bypass the one that's not working. I know I have either the document or link somewhere but I can't find it now.

EDIT: Found it! go to post #8 which has a diagram of the plumbing.

 

I have the diagram and have the solenoid disconnected but maybe my hands are too big to find the pump ...is it below the solenoid or to the left or right? All the hoses seem to get hot but no heat in car and the pump circuit is open so I guess its brushes . 30/87 shorted pump should run.