Window Failure 97 XK8
 

R/H drive model, One only passenger window fails to go up or down, door latches do not auto lock, mirror not operational, door open warning light when closed

driver window ops ok when using button, will not partly drop and close on opening of door.
Battery is new and disconnect reset does not assist

Read Micro switch may be the offender, any other ideas? any relays that could affect all of the above?
Thanks Guys

Maybe you should separate symptoms by side (pass / driver).

Do locks operate with remote? Do locks operate with key in door?

Door closed - is that door's puddle light on? (On 1997, failed micro switch = door thinks it is open. Display says so as per your confirmation)

I probably should have started with: Battery. Crazy things like this occur with run down batteries.(just noticed- you have a brand new battery)

Btw, a failed micro switch will only affect one door. Super unlikely that both sides fail at once.

Did you reset window travel (new battery always requires this) yet? It could be that simple, hope so.

Let us know how it goes.

John

Thanks for reply John, all problems are passenger side only,
Locks do not operate remotely either side
Only driver side operates with key manually and when it locks, opens and locks after 3 movements, stays in locked position drivers side only
Passengers door light does not light up with door opened or closed
Disconnected battery totally and earthed positive. Reconnected and no change
Passenger mirror inop
passenger window inop
passenger door lock inop
dash error passenger door open when ignition on

Hi.

At the door jamb, between the hinges, you have a circular electrical connector. All power to the door go through this. The connector is opened by unscrewing. Spray with electrical cleaner (not WD40) and reconnect.

+1 with Oyster's suggestion.

John

Thanks Oyster, 18 pin plug and all looked in excellent condition, sprayed with contact cleaner just in case and no prize.
Checked power at fuse 25ah, 12.5v showing, so I will have to try and find power at the 18 pin plug.
Will try and find a wiring diagram to ease the pain, tomorrows job.... many thanks, john as well, as I did not see that plug at all

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1997.pdf
97 electrical guide

Huge help thanks Bob Roy

Finally found time to pull the PDCU and found small areas of discoloration on the board so a good guess is that is why nothing works on my passenger side door
I had been looking for a popped fuse ie no pwr whatso ever.... now quick question is the Driver side differ to the passenger side? Down under the steer wheel is on the right side
My passenger side control has an 87 pt # of F7FF-13C791-AG and I have been told by a local distributor no longer available but a later unit LJE2120AB maybe more readily available
Any leads guys on new stock items and are both CU the same?

It’s a lottery. Always better to repair what you have
 

IMHO Superseded new parts are always a lottery if they will work in an older model. If you can find a local repair for your CU, it’s always better. Next option is a used working unit from your MY car.

But the car will be down longer though.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...24336201dd.jpg
A little burnt section on the board, but having trouble finding any repairers here? any ideas?

Gardcycl, are there components mounted on the other side above the burn? I can only see a surface mounted resistor nearby. Easy enough to measure resistance/continuity across it, but you'll be lucky if it not in parallel with another resistor.

If a component is opposite mounted it may be the culprit.

Given the position of the burn and the view in the photo, it's hard to imagine that resistor R27 overheated and burned an area so far away.

What is soldered into the hole above the "R" designating R27? From what I can see it looks like the most likely failure point.

If we can ID the component, it could be an easy solder that you can do. Let's start there.

Let us know.

John

I believe both control units are the same. I just had my own door control module fiasco yesterday and discovered that my harness itself was not able to conduct enough current to power my window motors, and at times other things as well. Additionally my control module had a large burnt trace on it in similar fashion to what you are looking at.

To properly diagnose what is the source of the problem right now in your passenger door. I would take the door control module out of the working door and install it in the passenger door. If all starts working well, then great it was only the control module that was bad. If any issues are persistent then I would remove the wiring harness from the door ( actually not that hard to do ) and then you can start measuring resistance of the wires between the plugs.

Update for all on this door control unit for future reference for members, I could see the board was damaged, I found a Sydney company called Indcontrol.com.au who viewed the circuit board and repaired for me.
Windows, auto locking, mirrors all working and no faults showing. A$200 cost, but happy as i do not have the ability or knowledge and could not find a new one around the globe.