Low fluid level is often the problem with many roof operations. The fluid is pumped to the rams until the switch in the ram is satisfied then it transfers the fluid pressure to the latch if the fluid pressure is not available it will not trip the lower switch in the ram. As for the fluid level we had a long discussion over the roof position and fluid level before and as long as the level is in fact between the two hash marks on the side of the tank with the roof up or down it should be ok.

If you said that it operated properly once then I would verify the fluid level and operate it a few more times. It could be that one of the switches is just operating a little slow and may need to be exercised. You have several other switches that must be satisfied that could cause this issue and I will attach a TSB for you to look at should you need it.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XK8/501-11am.pdf

 

I have just heard from Jaguar, the microswitch is inside the ram.

 

Yes that is correct both switches at the ram are inside the ram, however, the lead to is is outside.

 

A fluid level problem is inconsitent with John's symptoms.

Compared to the latch operation that is not working (the one at the end of "lower top") ...

The latch operation that is working, peformed as the top is closed, calls for identical latch movements, requires more pressure because it has to pull the top down, and occurs with a somewhat lower fluid level in the reservoir.

 

It is all yours Dennis I do not plan to argue with you!

 

Further experimentation. As the hood completed its opening cycle, it raised very slightly at the end. I pressed down hard on the hood and the latch went down. I suspect something has become a bit distorted which is causing the problem. I had noticed a click over the past few days as the hood was raised. Perhaps I should have looked at what was causing that. It's not there any more.

 

No arguments, in the pejorative sense, required. We start with symptoms, apply reasoning (we hope it's good, but we all miss at times) and try to reach conclusions about what could, and could not, explain things.

If someone thinks another is mistaken he ought to say so and why. Most direct route to the right answers.

edit: John, not in response to your last (obviously).

 

If you pressed down on the hood/roof on the right side to park it into the fully open position then I would say that the switch in the ram is where you need to look. The fact that it completed the operation when you pushed down on it means the wire is connected just that it could not complete the action. Try removing the resister and see if it still has a problem.

Addition: I forgot to continue my thought that if a resister is not installed operate the roof with the engine running.

 

John,

If you have a resistor installed, I missed mention of it here. Maybe you've been queried about it outside of these proceedings.

Do you have one installed?

If so, worth a try to test without it, I suppose, but it has never caused the bug you described. I think your idea about some sort of distortion of the top frame hangs together.

Anyway, you said all is working normally now, right?

 

I don't know whether or not there is a resistor. I am not sure where I would find it. I alway raise and lower the hood with the engine running to save the battery (except when I use the door key - usually when I have left the hood down and it starts to rain).

Sometime over the Christmas/New Year period I will strip everything down and see if I can find what is causing the microswitch not to engage except when I press on the hood. I have noticed that a small part of the black casing to an hydraulic hose is scuffed which makes me thing the hood frame is catching on it. I will report back after further investigations.

 

John,

"I was misinformed": Humphrey Bogart

The resistor, if present, is beneficial and will not cause the bug you're seeing (or any bug) so I would not worry about it here. There's a link in my sig. line talking about it.

Good luck with the ongoing investigation.

 

This is not necessary. I had computed a couple of years ago that a top cycle reduces the charge in the battery between 0.1 and 0.2 percent, which is really inconsequential.

TheJagWrangler.com's Remote Top always operates the top on the battery and as long as you have a good battery there is no issue.

 

The face that the roof is not continuing its sequence of events to allow the ram switch no to send the signal to the control module that activated the solenoid to close the latch without outside help leads me to believe that the pressure is not available or the ram is defective. In my effort to assist in the troubleshooting of this problem I wanted to eliminate any possibility that voltage to the pump is an issue. I suggested that if a resister was installed to take it out of the picture, I also suggested that the engine be running to eliminate the possibility of a bad battery. In no way was it suggested that a resister in the system is a bad thing. However, if it were part of the problem it could be defective along with the battery.

I am not using this post as a debate, I am trying to troubleshoot a problem that I am unable to see or touch. I said no derogatory remarks about the resister and or anyone else. However, it is difficult to do when emotions are involved.

As we have been told once pressure is applied to the hood/roof and the latch retracts tells me the leads and switch at the ram is good. The pump will continue to run for the rams and will not switch to the latch until it is satisfied and in my opinion doing the above mention will take this troubleshooting to the next level. I still concerned about the fluid level, if it is on the edge the hood/roof will stall.

Let’s all try to be patient and see what comes up next…

 

My view is that we can eliminate insufficient pump pressure in this case because if that were the problem it would have to show up first somewhere else in the raise/lower top cycle. First on the list: pulling down the top with the latch to close it. This takes something like 1000 psi, much more than the steps to complete lowering the top ... where John has a problem. All all other steps raising and lowering the top also work OK.

I can certainly see someone being unconvinced by that idea, and wanting to make max pressure available to see if it makes a difference. To do that, a consistent set of recommendations would be:
- test with the engine running,
- remove voltage-reducing resistor, if installed,
- remove relief valve, if installed.

(This is not to say I think John should do any of these, because of what's in my first paragraph. Seems to me the track he's on is more likely to produce a fix.)

 

I do not wish to debate! The objective of this Forum is to help and that is what I am going to do.

 

John,

Have you checked to see if you do not have a coat or an object that is in the rear sill that might be preventing the roof from retracting all the way on its own? Just an afterthought!

 

Thanks to all those who offered help. I stripped back everything until I could get to the frame. The worn hose I could see was as a result of it rubbing against the back seat frame. I encased that in foam rubber. Greasing the various joints seems to have solved the problem. I suspect, like humans, the hood frame's joints are getting arthritic with age.

 

John,

Ta-da! Well done, sir.

I felt pretty sure this could not be hydraulics. But I can't quite picture the friction spot you're describing. Any chance for a picture?

 

I will try to get a picture but it might be difficult without tking things apart again. Perhaps I didn't describe things properly when I said 'back seat frame'. There's a square-ish lateral brace painted black which attaches to the side of the back seat frame. It was against this that the hose was rubbing.

 

I think I'm getting the idea. Right side of the car?