XK8 How to replace rear shocks
 

Hi all

Newby here based in London. Never owned a Jag before - never thought I'd be lucky enough to own an XK8!

Bought the car recently and all's good except for a few niggles, one being the rear shocks need replacing. Never done it before and only able to find info about replacing front shocks.

Any info / links / walk through videos would be hugely appreciated...

• which shocks to buy (standard comfort)?
• where to buy shocks and how much should I pay?
• should I replace the top mounts?
• specific tools (spring compressors etc)

Bit of a novice, but keen to learn much more about these cars - I don't want to be put off by large unecssary bills!

Many thanks

Jon

Jon, the Xk8 came with Bilstien brand shocks. Last I looked, the closer you can get to $100 each, the better.

Motorcarman put instructions, with a great shortcut, up on this site. If you're too new to do a search, tell us and I'll look it up for you.

John

Found it: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...shocks-146663/

With a Jack, Jackstands and basic sockets/wrenchs, and medium hands on skills, this can be done on a saturday. Air tools take off about 1 hour from the job (one hour of constant wrench spinning)

You need new shocks (Bilstein blacks are comfort, Bilstein Greens are sport, both give a great ride) and new "spring isolators"

Motorcarmans lower bolt removal trick is key. My trick is to jack up a lower wishbone so the entire weight of the rear of the car is compressing the spring, then Clip on a rented external spring compressor, then lower the car back down on the jackstands. Ziptieing the springs to the top plates then cutting the zipties when every thing is in place is another trick.

If you have air tools, and tall springs, unbolting the 4 bolts/ a side and lowering the front of the subframe can maybe net enough clearance to set the springs and it doesn't add that much extra time.

Throw all of this out the window if your car is rusty.

The rear hub can be lowered farther with the use a small 'scissor-jack' or 'VEE' jack placed between the top frame 'bump-stop' area and the the top of the aluminum hub. (do not damage the Wheel Speed Sensor)

I use a small VW Jetta crank-handle jack inserted between the frame and hub to lower the control arm so the spring almost falls out. (I got that Idea from another forum member that I can't remember........ THANKYOUTHANKYOUTHANKYOU!!)

I used to just pry down with a long lever.

bob

Always a good idea to have a good look around first
 

Jonnyauto,

welcome to the Forum. Always good to have another X100 owner so welcome to the wonderful beast that this Jag is.

I’m a firm believer in having a good prod and poke about before hand, to see what mechanical problems you have. Easy to post pictures here on this forum using the Red Reply button and click “manage attachments.” Wait until it hits 100% before uploading.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...eeab92e73.jpeg
In my car the orange isolator, above the spring pan, just crumbled when I poked it with a screwdriver. The actual spring and damper had been switched by previous owner. I did replace the damper’s bottom bushing at same time as a precaution.

That solved a knock I was getting at the rear, when I went over a bump.

You are welcome Bob.

My write up with pics can be found here in my working thread. I managed to do it all with common hand tools and a floor jack. No need for a spring compressor. I did make use of some seriously large zip ties though.

I bought all the parts I needed from Rock Auto. They had the best prices at that time.

Since you are in the general area I would recommend replacing the rear sway bar bushings and links. The links need to be disconnected anyway.

Thanks 'DavidYau'. I have looked online for shocks and found these https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...absorber-p4066 Are there any other parts that I need?

Cheers

Hi 'Ungn'. Thanks for your reply. I don't have air tools, but I hope my battery powered Makita impact driver will suffice?

Big thanks to 'Rothwell' and 'Motorcarman'! Your write ups appear very clear and hopefully do-able. Are you both in agreeance that all bolts taken out should be put back in with copper grease?

I use ANTI-SEIZE compound if there is a possibility of rust forming. (copper or nickle)
The damper lower bolt that goes through the control arm gets a liberal coating.

The next guy will thank you.

bob