The only issue for do it yourself oil changes is finding the correct oil and filter for a reasonable price. Do you buy your OEM oil and filter from the dealer, or have you found other sources? The correct spec oil and filters seem to be hard to find. Will the Castrol Edge Extended Performance synthetic be a proper alternative to the Castrol Edge Professional the dealers have?

 

I buy OEM filters online for $27 (Filter Element | Genuine Jaguar | C2D3670) and the specified Castrol Edge Professional from the dealer for $11/liter. The Extended Performance does not have the specified concentration of Titanium.

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Just picked up my 2016 F type R from a Benz dealer in South Florida. They had serviced the car when they took it in and changed the oil. Last night I checked the oil level - overfilled! I have chastised them via email. I checked underneath the car and there are two belly pans! My '67 Cougar is on my lift right now, so I'll get that out of the way, then put the Jag on and drain some. Anyone know if the 5 liter plug is above the rear pan or front belly pan?

 

I think without some disassembly you have to use a vacuum pump from the top.

 

A good $40-60 vacuum pump/canister is certainly the easiest way to do it.

 

I have 12' ceilings with a Rotary 9000# asymmetric lift, in my garage and air tools. Removing the bottom skirts should be no big deal. I don't have an extractor, so the easiest for me is simply put it up and drain some. I'm beginning to see lots of posts - some inferring that there is no drain plug. Does anyone know for sure - is there a drain plug?

 

There is a drain plug that can be accessed after you remove the belly shield.

 

thank you - in the event you know - is it the front or rear belly shield?

 

At the young age that most of our F-Types are, sludge is not really going to happen.
Fine metal particles though will be around and more likely be right at the bottom when left to settle. There is not a hells chance that a suction pipe will even get close to this layer.

If you intend keeping the car, I would suggest removing the belly undertray and simply drilling a 2 - 3'' hole with a holesaw which will allow access to the good old conventional gravity fed drain plug. This can simply be covered up with a 2-3'' rubber bung when finished.


You may find a conscientious dealer that removes the drain plug and replaces it with a new one and washer as some of us have.


For those that have asked the question (again) YES there is a drain plug fitted.

 

Sorry - I was not trying to be a pest - I was simply trying to ascertain above which of the two belly pans it existed since I did see two belly pans. I was simply trying to avoid taking one off only to find I'd have to take the other one off also.

Since the dealership who had changed the oil checked out 10 quarts to the job (and didn't document how much put in) - I was a bit anxious to fire it up and move to my lift. 3/8" clear vinyl tubing and a bit of suction started the siphon process (I guess there was a good reason I was in the Corporate office all those years). After a few ounces drained, the level was in the normal band.

Too bad Jag doesn't indicate some nominal level of overfill on the scale. That was likely designed by an engineer who's never changed his own oil.

Thanks for all y'alls input.

 

I'm discussing on this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...3/#post1630068

It appears the smaller oil capacity of the 2016 AWD drive is causing dealers to overfill. This, together with the inability to a quick, accurate measurement with the electronic system. My dealer overfilled as well.

Here are the capacity specs:
Engine oil refill and filter change
Pints (Litres)
All Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles 13.7 (6.5)
Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) vehicles 15.3 (7.25)

 

That statement is simply false - You can check the instantaneous oil level as you fill the F-Type with the electronic dipstick!


I can only assume the dealer does not know how to switch between 'damped' average oil reading mode and instantaneous!

 

And I'll differ with the two of you to some degree. This small amount of overfill may have been 2 ounces - tops. For most mere mortals, it's easy to be changing oil and not be so precise since you never really know how much oil has been left in the engine after draining. My guess is that the dealership checked the reading as soon as the system allowed (it takes several minutes accounting for level changes when you shut down). When he checked, he assumed it had stabilized (and it more or less had) - it came out SAT. For that much delay, this is a reasonable action (of a person who's never done it on this car before). The next time it was checked, it was after it had drained overnight, with a slightly greater amount reading - unfortunately this now makes it "off scale" or overfilled.
In designing for things, "human factors" should be considered. Things just like this. A dealership can't wait until the next day to check the oil. 2 more ounces is NOT a problem. Unfortunately, however the gauge does not discern 2 oz. of overfill. the gauge goes from 100% to overfilled. That, IMHO is a poor design. The scale should have gone to a level at least allowing for a few more ounces. Then the user could discern that there was no significant issue, just a slight overfill condition (perhaps with the gauge color changing to orange in that band).
We could debate this point round and round, but the bottom line is that the indication is a poor design. This is not the cause for overfilling - but it is a contributing cause to my dilemma - that of a slightly overfilled crankcase that I could not ascertain without draining oil.

 

Do Tel, Tel.

Exactly how to get an instantaneous oil level reading with the electronic gauge?

 

In my particular overfill case, I actually went back to the dealer who reported to me that he removed 1.5 quarts. Further, after letting it settle overnight, I still had a overfill situation so I used an oil extractor to take out more.

Since I track my car, it is advisable to get the oil level reading to 1 bar below full when cold, as sporty driving does tend to cause oil levels to rise due to heat and contaminants.

 

Guys, what's the magic number, 6.5 liters ?
Thanks

 

Yes, purportedly it's 6.5 liters. I've not changed mine yet - but the first time I do I'll put in 6 1/2 quarts, monitor and adjust from there.

 

Well as it's you...here go's...


You can do this irrespective of time after last run, temperature etc. etc.


1. Pop the Bonnet

2. Turn on the ignition

3. Scroll through trip settings

4. Stop on oil level indicator

5. Push the Cancel button on the steering wheel two times in quick succession.


If that doesn't work, try rubbing your stomach and patting your head at the same time!

 

On my XFR just popping the bonnet worked most of the time (although not every time, I have no idea why), so I thought I'd try it on the F-Type. Of course you still have to turn the ignition on and scroll through to the oil level reading.
Hey presto, it worked, no need to press any buttons other than the Menu button then scroll down to oil level! Car had not been run for over six hours.
So Tel, do tell, another question for you based on your earlier post (#33).
Can you watch the electronic read out "rise" in real time as someone else fills the sump with new oil????
If you can that would seem to be an easy and obvious way to make sure you don't overfill.