Fog lamps keep blowing out
#1
10-16-2009, 08:30 AM
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#2
10-17-2009, 11:16 PM
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1) Does the bulbs burn or the fuse?
A fuse is designed to protect the circuit from a short, if a direct short,the fuse will blow.
2) Are these halogen type fog lights?
If you touched the bulbs during replacement, the oils from hands will cause the bulbs to burn out.
Note- If one burns out, the other will soon follow, because they are in parallel.
When one burns out, don't use until replacing the bad bulb.
This thread is to help anyone, that is having tbl with there fog lights, please search or start a new thread for
sluggish issues.
Example - My Jag is sluggish!
A fuse is designed to protect the circuit from a short, if a direct short,the fuse will blow.
2) Are these halogen type fog lights?
If you touched the bulbs during replacement, the oils from hands will cause the bulbs to burn out.
Note- If one burns out, the other will soon follow, because they are in parallel.
When one burns out, don't use until replacing the bad bulb.
This thread is to help anyone, that is having tbl with there fog lights, please search or start a new thread for
sluggish issues.
Example - My Jag is sluggish!
Last edited by danielsatur; 10-18-2009 at 06:25 PM.
#3
10-19-2009, 06:46 PM
not true, not even close.............most of the time when these things happen it is because of voltage issues. My bet is if you measure the voltage down at the light, you will see a huge voltage drop. I would start by checking the battery connections and charging system, then inspecting the wiring and connectors going to the bulbs. These lights are not connected in parallel at all. they are individual circuits. If you say well they run off the same switching, that would be technically correct, but then everything that is DC in the car would be considered parallel then. Unless you want to get technical, they are not paralleled at all. Most aftermarket systems are though, not on these cars.
Last edited by phd12volt; 10-19-2009 at 06:52 PM.
#4
10-19-2009, 07:09 PM
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Is the Fog light switch a SPDT, or DPDT?
Are these halogen type light bulbs?
If one go's bad ,does the other light get brighter?
If each fog light is on a different circuit,using a DPDT switch, each light has a load(bulb),fuse, and switch. ''Thats it''
I think, he touched the bulb during replacement, this happens alot with halogen Head lights.
Are these halogen type light bulbs?
If one go's bad ,does the other light get brighter?
If each fog light is on a different circuit,using a DPDT switch, each light has a load(bulb),fuse, and switch. ''Thats it''
I think, he touched the bulb during replacement, this happens alot with halogen Head lights.
Last edited by danielsatur; 10-19-2009 at 10:22 PM.
#5
10-19-2009, 08:00 PM
daniel, your missing the point. Simply replacing lights over and over again isn't getting to the solution. While it is true that "perhaps" the lights are touched, i would rather figure out the cause of the problem then simply state some rudimentary solutions. To the original poster: simply measure the voltage at the connector down at the fog lights with a multi-meter. And then reference that measurement to the battery voltage when running. I would bet money that you have a voltage issue, or perhaps some high resistance in-line somewhere. It may be a relay, or switch too, but getting to the ROOT CAUSE is more important than just simply replacing lights. While there may be some justification in what has been posted, posting incorrect information will do nothing than confuse individuals who don't know, and cause ones who do, to raise the BS flag. I've been working with vehicle electronics for over 20 years and have worked on advanced wiring processes and procedures in the OEM world, along with working on military aircraft. I play with wiring and resistance all day long, like i said earlier, knowing the ROOT CAUSE is the KEY to fixing the issues once and for all.
*notice the non-linking to some other site, as i speak from experience, not from what is typed on the internet*
*notice the non-linking to some other site, as i speak from experience, not from what is typed on the internet*
#6
10-19-2009, 08:16 PM
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IF you touch an Halogen light bulb by hand, the natural oils is on the bulb, I don't care if it's a halogen fog light,Head light,or any halogen bulb, it will burn out premature!
Focus - 12VDCV ,switch,fuse,bulb,,and a ground, ''It's a night light''
Yep! Google ''Troubleshoot Jag fog light''
Focus - 12VDCV ,switch,fuse,bulb,,and a ground, ''It's a night light''
Yep! Google ''Troubleshoot Jag fog light''
Last edited by danielsatur; 10-22-2009 at 10:09 PM.
#7
10-19-2009, 08:59 PM
there you go again, you missing the whole point AGAIN.....there is way more to it than "that's it". Basic electronics training.......RESISTANCE in between any of your "thats it" will cause havoc......just because your switch might be new, the bulbs might be new, the relay might be new, does not mean the problem will go away. LEARN about the basic fundamentals before typing next time. Please give me a real world experience other than oil on the bulb. However it is possible that the original poster touches the bulb when inserting, i have given information as to other possibilities that you may have to troubleshoot. Once again, from the real world, not the internet world.
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#8
10-19-2009, 09:00 PM
#10
10-20-2009, 11:43 AM
Veteran member
Let's stay on topic and keep focused people.
I am also thinking, that if the bulbs have fried more than once...there's a very bad short somewhere. It can't be entirely from oils on bulbs...statistically, the OP would have installed at least one correctly.
I would check the fuse first...maybe previous owner put the wrong one in...allowing the bulbs to burn out instead of the fuse, but that doesn't solve the definitive short somewhere. Need to evaluate the wiring diagram to find a common power wire that would affect both bulbs, or modules.
Phd may be able to give you a place to start.
I am also thinking, that if the bulbs have fried more than once...there's a very bad short somewhere. It can't be entirely from oils on bulbs...statistically, the OP would have installed at least one correctly.
I would check the fuse first...maybe previous owner put the wrong one in...allowing the bulbs to burn out instead of the fuse, but that doesn't solve the definitive short somewhere. Need to evaluate the wiring diagram to find a common power wire that would affect both bulbs, or modules.
Phd may be able to give you a place to start.
#11
10-20-2009, 12:04 PM
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A short takes the path of least resistance.
The fuse is there to help protect the bulb.
How often are these Fog lights being used ?
What brand of halogen bulbs are being used?
How many watts?
Could a bad alternator output more than 12volts?
What about the bulb socket?
Profile,Ask questions, and see if there is a history of problems,.
I have seen a woman replace a left side front halogen head light herself, she replaced it 3-times in one year ,because of mishandled.
I got a hug,kiss,and a thank you, it was priceless.
It's all about time, and how much the light is being used befor going bad again.
How often are these Fog lights being used ?
What brand of halogen bulbs are being used?
How many watts?
Could a bad alternator output more than 12volts?
What about the bulb socket?
Profile,Ask questions, and see if there is a history of problems,.
I have seen a woman replace a left side front halogen head light herself, she replaced it 3-times in one year ,because of mishandled.
I got a hug,kiss,and a thank you, it was priceless.
It's all about time, and how much the light is being used befor going bad again.
Last edited by danielsatur; 10-20-2009 at 12:39 PM.
#16
10-21-2009, 08:56 AM
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12Volts DC, that's all your getting uless a bad voltage regulator in the alternator.
The alternator is working, otherwise, he will have more serious issues.
This is just a little infornation to help prevent the owner from burning out his Alternator.
The demand for power is great these days for OBDII systems, the electric fuel pumps,computers,control modules.and all the bells & whistles......
A 12volt battery is good for a good 4-years, and won't hold a charge like it once did, this will create a big demand on your alternator thus it will burn out like a bulb.
1) If a battery is dead, don't just jump start the car, and let the alternator do all the work charging, get it charged from a charger.
2) In the morng let your car get up to normal operating temp with lights and all the bells & whistles off, this will give a little more time for charging your battery befor driving.
3) Prior to destination, turn all the bells & whistles off, this will also buy a little more time for charging your battery, and also will help with the big demand of battery during the start up.
Lets fix this night light, befor we get derailed again.
12volts,switch,bulb,and a ground, thats it!
I actually just replaced 3-bad bulbs for break lights for a dude, where someone set him up with a one filiment bulb instead of two at a local discount auto parts store.
LOL -He had tail lights, but no break lights!
It's an accident in the rear waiting to happen.
The most probable cause is a mishandled halogen light bulb, if a bad alternator, it will throw an alarm,and the battery will end up dead.
The alternator is working, otherwise, he will have more serious issues.
This is just a little infornation to help prevent the owner from burning out his Alternator.
The demand for power is great these days for OBDII systems, the electric fuel pumps,computers,control modules.and all the bells & whistles......
A 12volt battery is good for a good 4-years, and won't hold a charge like it once did, this will create a big demand on your alternator thus it will burn out like a bulb.
1) If a battery is dead, don't just jump start the car, and let the alternator do all the work charging, get it charged from a charger.
2) In the morng let your car get up to normal operating temp with lights and all the bells & whistles off, this will give a little more time for charging your battery befor driving.
3) Prior to destination, turn all the bells & whistles off, this will also buy a little more time for charging your battery, and also will help with the big demand of battery during the start up.
Lets fix this night light, befor we get derailed again.
12volts,switch,bulb,and a ground, thats it!
I actually just replaced 3-bad bulbs for break lights for a dude, where someone set him up with a one filiment bulb instead of two at a local discount auto parts store.
LOL -He had tail lights, but no break lights!
It's an accident in the rear waiting to happen.
The most probable cause is a mishandled halogen light bulb, if a bad alternator, it will throw an alarm,and the battery will end up dead.
Last edited by danielsatur; 10-23-2009 at 11:14 AM.
#17
10-21-2009, 09:41 AM
#19
10-22-2009, 09:54 AM
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Hey!
Did this night light get fixed yet?
I'am not blaming nobody, some people don't know how to handle halogen light bulbs.
I have to assume, that it was mishandle, because it's done at lube stations,auto parts parking lots, retail stores,
customers, and some technicians, they just didn't know.
Buy one, and watch who puts it in.
Actually, I learned the hard way, by replacing 3 Halogen light bulbs in one year on my bike,
I thought, it was from popping wheelie's.
Ouch! $60
Did this night light get fixed yet?
I'am not blaming nobody, some people don't know how to handle halogen light bulbs.
I have to assume, that it was mishandle, because it's done at lube stations,auto parts parking lots, retail stores,
customers, and some technicians, they just didn't know.
Buy one, and watch who puts it in.
Actually, I learned the hard way, by replacing 3 Halogen light bulbs in one year on my bike,
I thought, it was from popping wheelie's.
Ouch! $60
Last edited by danielsatur; 10-22-2009 at 12:28 PM.