Thanks for the info...I have the propshaft off, Roll resistor removed (Broken!) and I've been able to remove 4 of the TC bracket bolts....I can't even see the bolts attaching the heat shield portion of the brackets to the engine.....By removing the "4 engine mount bolts" can I presume the unit will sag and these TC bracket bolts become visible? Not sure which engine bolts you refer to...parts ready to go if I can get the "bleepin" bracket clear!
Tbone

 

What I did was drill out the spot welds that connects the roll resistor bracket to the torque converter heat shield. There are pictures and discussion about it on the thread I linked.

How to replace a Transfer Box - Page 2

 

What that did was allow me to remove the roll resistor bracket while leaving the torque converter heat shield in place. I didn't bolt the two back together until later when the car developed the driveshaft center bearing whine in cold weather, I thought it was that heat shield singing but it wasn't. So in my opinion they wouldn't have to be bolted back together. Greasing the center bearing fixed the whine.

 

Jesse,
Can you please explain or elaborate on how you managed to grease the centre bearing ? I thought it was a sealed unit (no grease nipple)

Thanks,

 

AGREED! drilling out bracket will make short work of the entire procedure. Don't understand why they made it this way in the first place.
Thanks for the common sense!!!

 

I greased the bearing from the back with a needle, not from the front like some do. I was able to work the needle under the actual bearing seal and get the grease into the bearing itself.

I couldn't see the actual bearing seal from the front because the bearing is behind a metallic deflector thinger. The actual bearing and seal is exposed on the back side.

Here's a thread about greasing it from the front; https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...853/#post93886

 

Thanks for the replies from CuJet, Jesse and others.
Got to the point and drilled out the welds in 25 min and popped the bracket of the Transfer Case. Bearing out and (BIG SURPRISE!) no gear lube... If the lube was just serviced regularly I expect we'd save alot of effort.
BTW. Parts from AUTOZONE:
Timken/Pinion Bearing - Rear Part Number: HM88542 1 $16.99

Timken/Pinion Bearing - Rear Part Number: HM88547 1 $29.99

Timken/Pinion Bearing - Front Part Number: HM88510 13.99 2 $27.98

Bracket photos attached

 

I found that a 1/4" drive 13mm socket with a universal joint worked perfect on those two nuts under the cat but buy some extra because I snapped two of them--a 3/8" drive broke them loose but I had to use a pry bar between the cat and the shield to get the socket and joint in and out....

David

 

I know this is an old post but I just had to say thanks a bunch for the info as it gave me the confidence to take on my noisy/growling trans-axle bearings.

The parts you listed were perfect, and dis-assembly and pressing out/in the bearings was pretty straightforward.

Used the inner race of the old bearing as the tool to press out the old bearing races on both sides, it took about 5 minutes on a bench grinder to take enough of the lip off so that it would fit inside the case so it could be used to press the old stuff out.

Couldn't believe how bad the bearings were and really glad that the job was so easy, only took about an hour to do start to finish.

Thanks again!!!

 

FYI the output shaft seal PN is C2S11506 available at terrysjag.com for $15.17

 

What is the strength (Nm) of the coupling securing nut on the transfer case rear output flange?

 

Not exactly sure, I just used an impact wrench and tightened it up until it had a slight drag but wasn't hard to turn by hand. I think slightly loose is way better than too tight.

 

Before replacing the pinion/output shaft housing, the flange securing nut, with sealant under it, should be tightened such that the torque require to turn the pinion shaft is 1.7 Nm. If the housing has already been installed, then a torque of 160 Nm is Jaguar's fall back spec to avoid having to remove the housing to do it properly.

 

A logical and clever thing to do, although do bear in mind that one of the reasons why this bracket is bolted to the block is to stop the Transfer Box output pinion housing taking all the stresses when the engine moves on the rear support bracket. Without it, the alloy pinion housing (held on with four bolts threaded into the alloy TB casing) would be subject to increased up and down forces - which cannot possibly be a good thing.


When reassembling, bolting (if possible) or spot welding (in situ) the two halves of the bracket back together would be safer than leaving them separate.


However, the concept of fixing the output pinion without removing the TB is an excellent one, even if you have to cannibalise a spare box for a new pinion!!

 

I never thought about that until your post. I would be amazed if leaving the top part of that shield disconnected from the bottom would cause the transfer case to crack.

• The bracket is thin metal, and has a lot more flexibility than the TC casting. The upper part seems to serve more as a heat shield to me.
• The majority of the engine torque stress is handled by the transfer case to transmission connection.
• The output shaft housing bolts are close to the main transfer case casting, it's doubtful that part of the transfer case would break off from engine torque without the upper part of the bracket.

I'll attach a diagram from the shop manual.

 

The link to the other form seems to be broke, here it is again.


How to replace a Transfer Box

 

Kind of interesting I will separate that shield/mount but will not drill the hole in the transfer case to get at the nasty oil pan bolt. I think drilling that hole weakens the transfer case setup more than the separated shield/mount would. We find it pretty easy to justify our own idiosyncrasies don't we.


I did bolt the mount back together.

 

Agreed , and I have the parts catalogue as well as the manual.
JTIS calls this bracket an "anti roll restrictor bracket".


I asked myself why Ford/Jaguar went to the trouble of engineering such a complicated bracket - where half of it curves neatly (and inaccessibly!) over the TB housing and is bolted to the block.


The conclusion I reached was that this bracket transfers and dissipates vertical stress loads from the engine block into the rear mounting, presumably because Ford/Jaguar did not want these to be carried by the TB pinion housing alone. I am not at all sure about the heat shield argument mainly because heat shielding in the X type is usually engineered from bright alloy sheet (eg that annoying piece of silver tin over the steering rack), and there is nothing particularly vulnerable to heat damage in the top of the TB itself.


On my car this stupid bracket is 5mm thick steel, which is 1mm thicker than the lower roll restrictor housing welded to the chassis. There is a tinplate heat reflector plate glued on top, with some yellow insulating material sandwished between - which I suspect is more to do with reducing rattles than anything else.


As the engine/trans block moves, the forces are transferred by the TB pinion housing into the lower roll restrictor. The main transfer box casing itself would not be damaged by these stresses, as you suggest, but the pinion housing itself might well be as it is made of soft alloy and only held on with four long bolts. If this housing were damaged or pulled loose or out of alignment, the pinion itself might no longer engage properly with the counter shaft gear and the risk of total lubricant loss and failure would increase.


I can see no other reason why the bracket should be such a complicated and expensive item to produce.


In normal US/EU Freeway/motorway use I doubt there would ever be a problem, but Jaguar built these cars for export and not all roads would be as forgiving!


HOWEVER


I have just taken this bracket off my car (a 2002 3.0 auto). I found - like everyone - that the two bolts at the top are real pigs to get at but after several hours of patient toil and bloodshed I found that by using a tiny mirror I could aim the socket at the bolt head well enough to get a purchase. I found that 1/2" drive sockets were far too fat to fit in the gap, so a combination of 3/8" sockets and extension bars (with a hefty extension lever to crack the nut before unscrewing) worked out. After withdrawing each bolt not quite half an inch the 3/8" socket head fouled the top of the bracket and so I switched to 1/4" drive for the final removal.


Additionally I did not have to undo the 'impossible' bolt under the cat - it was quite simple just to lever the right hand side of the bracket between the cat bracket and block casting.


I have marked my bracket with bolt aiming lines painted on the top curve so that reassembly might take me slightly less than a day's swearing and graft...

 

Hate to say it but I just used my dremel cut the 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the TC case flush with the bracket.
used a screwdriver to pop the bracket out of place and move (bend)it out of the way.
on reassembly drilled the threads out of 2 nuts to use as a spacer and used stainless steal bolts and bolted it in place with a little threadlock for good measure.
been holding strong for nearly 2 years now.

 

The pinion housing fits so tight to the main transfer case casting I kind of doubt the pinion housing, by itself, is stressed at all. The pinion housing bolt heads are only about 1/4 inch away from the main transfer case casting. The lower bracket pinion housing connection would transfer nearly all of the torque stress into the main transfer case casting. And those aren't the only bolts on the lower part of that bracket, there are two more bolts fastening the right side of the bracket to a different part of the main transfer case casting. If engine torque stress was going to fail something on the transfer case at that location it would almost have to be;

• The four lower bracket bolts.
• The main transfer case casting - a big chunk of the main transfer case casting the lower bracket bolts to could tear completely out.
• The transfer case could tear away from the transmission.

If there was that much torque stress the roll restrictor, the roll restrictor bolts, or the roll restrictor's connection on the car's frame could fail instead.