Handle gasket: drilling out and replacing the axle
#1
Handle gasket: drilling out and replacing the axle
Even though the door handle gaskets were originally not foreseen by jaguar as a stand alone replacement part (but as a complete door handle assembly), there are now available alone (as mentioned by member Norri) under the references:
JLM12031GSK (Welsh enterprise)
Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XJ8 (98-03) Body Fittings Front Doors Parts - Left Door Handle Gasket
JLM12032GSK (Welsh enterprise)
Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XJ8 (98-03) Body Fittings Front Doors Parts - Right Door Handle Gasket
When replacing them, 2 solutions:
Be carefull when re-assembling the linkage on the driver side door. The linkage length should be adjusted such that the door can be unlocked manually with the key and the battery disconnected.
When unlocking the door with the key and the battery connected, the linkage adjustment may be such that it does actuate the electric opening but may not be tight enough to unlock the door without the electric assistance.
Failing to do the test of unlocking the car with battery disconnected may let you locked out of the car if you find the battery drained one day. I learnt it the hard way .
JLM12031GSK (Welsh enterprise)
Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XJ8 (98-03) Body Fittings Front Doors Parts - Left Door Handle Gasket
JLM12032GSK (Welsh enterprise)
Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XJ8 (98-03) Body Fittings Front Doors Parts - Right Door Handle Gasket
When replacing them, 2 solutions:
- cut the inside H-shape of the gasket
- drill out the (crimped) door handle axle
- trim the remaining left end (see image below) of the axle after having drilled out the crimped section (smaller diameter end of the axle)
- Drill a 2.5mm hole at the left end of the axle and tap to M3
- Cut a few millimeter section of a 4mm diameter brass tube (found in modeling hobby store) and insert in the handle bore.
- Assemble with an M3 stainless screw and loctite
Be carefull when re-assembling the linkage on the driver side door. The linkage length should be adjusted such that the door can be unlocked manually with the key and the battery disconnected.
When unlocking the door with the key and the battery connected, the linkage adjustment may be such that it does actuate the electric opening but may not be tight enough to unlock the door without the electric assistance.
Failing to do the test of unlocking the car with battery disconnected may let you locked out of the car if you find the battery drained one day. I learnt it the hard way .
Last edited by bballarin; 11-25-2014 at 06:58 PM.
#3
Finally ! Thanks so much for the info. Have been looking for these for sometime. I had to replace door lock actuator and latch cable on my driver's door (2 separate occasions) and each time wished I had a replacement gasket while I was in there. Every door needs one, so will end up taking all panels apart eventually ;-)
Cheers
Cheers
#4
I like puzzles, but when I was replacing these gaskets yesterday I was flummoxed as to how they could be replaced without cutting or removing that riveted pin. Glad the issue is shared. I cut it such that the handle spring pressed on both parts of the H.
I also found that the seal seemed just a little small and it did not seat cleanly and evenly all the way around.
I also suggest that you inspect and possibly replace the drivers for actuation cable if it has not been done. Bound to break.
I also found that the seal seemed just a little small and it did not seat cleanly and evenly all the way around.
I also suggest that you inspect and possibly replace the drivers for actuation cable if it has not been done. Bound to break.
#5
#6
I have got to remove a door card again and I took the opportunity to try to have the door handle gasket to sit better.
I removed the gasket and heated it with an air drier, then I stretched the lower rear section (the gasket is strong, no risk to break it). then I resited it and it fit much better.
I removed the gasket and heated it with an air drier, then I stretched the lower rear section (the gasket is strong, no risk to break it). then I resited it and it fit much better.
#7
I see this is an old thread , but I'm also replacing the gaskets.
Since these product from welsch don't seem to sit right , I think its best to go for some other aftermarket manufacturer at half the price.
Ebay has listing for "ORC" and "volig" ones. will give them a try.
Maybe they are all from the same aftermarket manufacturer anyway.
However I'm not surprised that a product form Welsch is inferior. They often substitute lesser spec products to the ones you pay for . there are many complaints about them, I will never deal with them. There products and servicesare substandard in many respects. They border on fraud.
Peter
Since these product from welsch don't seem to sit right , I think its best to go for some other aftermarket manufacturer at half the price.
Ebay has listing for "ORC" and "volig" ones. will give them a try.
Maybe they are all from the same aftermarket manufacturer anyway.
However I'm not surprised that a product form Welsch is inferior. They often substitute lesser spec products to the ones you pay for . there are many complaints about them, I will never deal with them. There products and servicesare substandard in many respects. They border on fraud.
Peter
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