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Just ran across this thread. Up until post #6 I was as usual, thinking poor dude... But then the painted pics! Good friggin job Bro! The sbc will make it drive like it should have all along and you'll love it.
On the stub axles, I know you don't want to... but send them to Coventry West with $400 and you get back really nice ones all set up with new bearings and ready to bolt in with no noise and no leaks.
So the rear diff, axles, hubs and carriers are out at a transmission shop getting a full service. New bearings for all the wheels, new hub carrier on one side, new u joints (MOOG 330 for the half shafts if anyone needs that info) new sub axles oil seals, and a general clean up.
They’re also going to try and see if dana 4.27 gears fit in the housing, Ive heard it just needs new bolts but theyre going to test it out while its apart.
So the rear diff, axles, hubs and carriers are out at a transmission shop getting a full service. New bearings for all the wheels, new hub carrier on one side, new u joints (MOOG 330 for the half shafts if anyone needs that info) new sub axles oil seals, and a general clean up.
They’re also going to try and see if dana 4.27 gears fit in the housing, Ive heard it just needs new bolts but theyre going to test it out while its apart.
If you have a 2:88 now then numericly higher gear wont fit. Get a auburn or eaton limited slip carrier for a dana 44 any gear set you want with a Dana 44 side bearings. I think you will need the 30 somthing spline type. Do a search I posted extensively about this in the past. Flange drive shaft adapter are available from Spicer.
the engine is solid mounted to the crossmember. so shouldnt have much play at all
Rubish. Why solid mounts? Is it a 1000hp turbo motorsports engine? Get yourself some energy urethane mounts if you like NVH. The cradle is also rubber mounted so the whole assembly moves around quite a bit relative to the radiator support area. .
Even Nascar and Formula1 use rubber and silicone flexible hoses.
From one lumper to another... you should rethink the hose and put back the OE brake booster and pedal assembly. This is the type of engeneering that gives lumps a bad rap.
Last edited by icsamerica; 01-05-2017 at 09:57 AM.
Its going to be running high hp numbers (i have edelbrock heads, holley efi, lunati cam and single borg warner 76mm turbo in the process of getting ordered), and the crade is only rubber mounted in the front not the rear two mounts are solid. and the stock brake booster and master are not in any shape to go back in. Im putting in a 74 corvette manual master cylinder.
Im doing this build the way i want it, so if i set it up and hate it then i can change it. Im in no rush to get it perfect id rather make mistakes for myself and learn in the process
Go for it wrong or right!!! Your car. I don't agree as to the need for a solid engine trans mount. Might even be counter productive. But, do as you please.
As to the almost solid top "hose"! Apologies, it isn't that pretty!! My view only. The only one that counts is yours. Again, apologies, but that welds is kinda "dirty". Is it sound????
Good job on those wheel wells! I never realized I didn't care so much for the original design until I saw Fi-Boys XJC a few years back. This is a killer build too... I'm sure you've prob seen it. FiBoy's XJ12C restoration; rebuilding a Jaguar XJ V12 Coupe
Did some more work on the jag, added a switch panel (no push start i want to use the stock key start) added power steering, mounted the manual master cylinder, little to no flex on it when i push down on it, and mocked up a temporary exhaust just so i can avoid any more complaints from the neighbours
11-11-2016, 07:37 PM
