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Yeah i just rebuilt the engine and transmission and i'm paying close attention to the cooling. But i'm waiting for someone to weld up the body for me so it is driveable again. In the meantime, while it is parked, i am doing some odds and ends that need to get done.
When i rebuilt the engine i had the hood off and inspected the radiator and it didnt appear to have any damage or bent fins or debris lodged in it. I would guess that it is dirty on the inside and needs cleaned. I am going to pull it out and take it to the local radiator shop and get an idea on whether or not it is a good idea to recondition it or replace it. Maybe even do an external trans cooler to even more so keep the temps down in the radiator.
I've put external trans (and power steering) coolers and filters on my last 2 cars with good results. The first one went over 100,000 miles without an overhaul or any attention except check oil occasionally, which it never needed any, but was beginning to suffer morning sickness; had to warm up some before it would move (the transmission that is) indicating the seals were worn, never having got hot enough to get hard.
Trans cooler:
Power steering cooler:
I'm hoping for similar results as before; 100,000 miles before the need to rebuild.
(';')
I was locating the power wires for the blower today and noticed that the right side demister duct is destroyed and the plastic exploded all over the inside of the air ducts. Will have to order one of those before i put it all back together. I wonder how many other goodies like that I am going to find while tearing this down.
Looks like i need to get a new brake booster as well. Are there any aftermarket replacements that are even close to bolt in? The other option would be to buy a used one from everydayxj and see how long it lasts.
Looks like i need to get a new brake booster as well. Are there any aftermarket replacements that are even close to bolt in? The other option would be to buy a used one from everydayxj and see how long it lasts.
I'd go used.
No promises, of course, but the Jag boosters often soldier on forever. The odds are on your side, IMO
Fair enough, I had been trying to search around for a post i read last year where someone had a bolt in replacement for the jag brake booster. It was a subaru part if i remember correctly. But i will take your word for it and just ****** up the used part and see how long it lasts. Thanks Doug.
Also, the one i found on everydayxj says it is for a series 3, but it looks like the part number matches what other websites have listed for a series 2. Does anyone know if these are interchangeable off the top of their head?
I ended up just buying one from everydayxj so i knew it would be a direct drop in with no modification. But autozone had that brake booster and a master cylinder and reservoir for $322. I had seen that someone here had one of those on their car and wondered where they got the redesigned master cylinder and reservoir.
If it is warm this weekend i will be pulling out the radiator and having it inspected. Pull out the gas tank and figure out why it is leaking. And when the brake booster and caliper gets in i will replace those. In the meantime i am going to look up wiring diagrams and make heads or tails of the 20 unconnected wires in the engine bay and see what they all used to be
Well, it appears as though out of all 4 of my doors, i think only a single one of them has a working power door lock actuator :O
I will probably just end up ordering a set of the cheapo plastic ones off ebay and installing them in their place.
Have you removed the door trims and checked things out? if not, don't buy anything just yet.
Your Series II has the Lucas lock solenoids which are quite robust. I obviously can't say they never fail, but as often as not they'll outlive the rest of the car.
Many inoperative power locks are brought back to life by cleaning and lubricating the associated linkages. And, on the occasions where inoperative solenoids do pop up, they can often be coaxed back to life with cleaning, lubrication, and exercise.
Yeah the door panels are off and only one of the solenoids makes an attempt at moving. I have been periodically greasing the linkages over the past year, they are fairly free. I pulled the connector for one of the actuators today and verified it was getting ~5v when i hit the lock button.
I also should say that my window motors all work but are incredibly slow. Could take up to 5 seconds for them to raise or lower all the way. Is there anything i can do to get them back into proper working order without having to take them out of the door. ( they look like a bitch to get out of the door )
Last edited by Mad Hatter; 03-04-2017 at 07:19 PM.
Yeah the door panels are off and only one of the solenoids makes an attempt at moving. I have been periodically greasing the linkages over the past year, they are fairly free. I pulled the connector for one of the actuators today and verified it was getting ~5v when i hit the lock button.
Should be 12v, not sure if 5v is enough to reliably energize the solenoid
I also should say that my window motors all work but are incredibly slow. Could take up to 5 seconds for them to raise or lower all the way. Is there anything i can do to get them back into proper working order without having to take them out of the door. ( they look like a bitch to get out of the door )
Yeah, on a Series III the window motor removal is not fun....I suspect no better on a Series II but I've not worked on one
Not sure of any way to strengthen a weak motor in or out of the door.
Cleaning and lubing the felt channels might help; same for the window regulators
Might check voltages to the window motors as well, as the switches might be oxidized. Age old problem with Jags and others. Some add relays to the circuit to ensure the motors get the full 12v +. Same for the wiper motor, as well...some add a relay
Ahh yeah i didn't mean grease, although i believe i have used white lithium grease for window slides before.
The instructions for installing the viper system are practically nonexistent.
They presented a small wiring diagram and didn't label hardly anything. Thank god HEI systems are quite simple.
Last edited by Mad Hatter; 03-04-2017 at 11:28 PM.
1. Sluggish or non-op windows respond well to removal of each switch, opening it and cleaning the contacts. And, the mysterious fix. Merely removing and replacing the connectors a few cycles!!!
2. Ugh, my power lock function has vanished!!! I noted that operation of the boot lock had gone sluggish. So, I tried the door paddles. Sluggish. The satisfying clunk no longer there!! Lousy weather still. But, I guess I'll get out my S57 scematic and see what gives?? fuse, ands if so, why?
Ugh, went to market yesterday. Forgot a stop!!! Pet food store. Sorry, Coco!!! But, enough for his supper last night and breakfast this morning. He is snoozing contentedly... I'll go later this AM, rain or shine....
Yeah I am thinking that the wires may have degraded over the years, particularly in the door jamb. I will pull the interior out and probably end up replacing these wires entirely. ( all the wires in the doors, speakers, window motor, locks, position switches )
I am trying to interpret some instructions i found online for the viper installation. Looks like i am going to have to do a lot of rewiring, particularly the ignition, to make this work.
I also just managed to get the radiator out and i am going to take it to the radiator shop to see if its worthwhile to recondition it. The radiator has to be for a v8, if it was a half inch wider it wouldn't fit. When i took it out it was really easy to look in the inlet port and see tons of corrosion. It has to be blocked.
Radiator is fixed, it had 35% reduced flow from blockages. It turned out to be a mid 90's Camaro radiator.
I am working on the wiring for my car right now and the previous owner who did the conversion did unspeakable things to the wiring in this car. I have the current goal to replace every single wire and relay that i can with modern equivalents. Does anyone have a writeup saying what relays are what and what wires are what coming through the firewall?
02-26-2017, 01:47 PM
