I am glad that they worked for you!
Happy New Year,
Jomo

 

Received the ten T5 LEDs, but I am returning them. (Ebay 281400072019) All though they were very bright, they provided insufficient light to illuminate the warning windows any more than the bulbs provided by Jaguar. I think the reason was because they did not reach farther than 1/4 inch into the bulb cavity. The new ones I ordered are about 3/4 inches long and are in two parts, base and bulb. (Ebay Item Id:151174695756 ) They cost about a dollar each on ebay. Will report on them.

 

Ebay Item Id:151174695756 base did not work. The locking mechanisms are too large. The deeper bulbs work fine, except the white light changes the color of the warning light. I only changed one bulb and the green changes to a pea green ( yellowish) That doesn't bother me because the only time they light is on turns or warnings. Will keep pluging along and might even buy those $2.50 bulbs

 

Gave the purchase of LEDs another try with Ebay. The base required is B8.5D, from there is you r choice of color. I could not find the longer size with the B8.5D base. I went back to the original size LED , flat top and about 1/4" into the slot. Bought all on Ebay. Here are the item numbers and color. Two are USA purchases, the blue from Canada and the green are from China. Just enter item numbers in Ebay search.
Red 121526526423 eight each $10.00
Amber 291335354097 eight each $7.69
Blue 3811037600146 one each $0.89
Green 311161145121 five each $7.34
Total about $25.00.
Will provide info on installation when complete.

 

I have a small 12vt power supply. Handy for all electrical work on cars. To check all five instrument lights go to socket B on the dash instrument panel (left side as you face rear of panel) and touch the positive lead to contact 2 (lower left) and the ground to 1 (botton left) all should light; reversing none should light (with LEDs). All twenty warning lights must be tested individually. If more than one lights, there is a short between lights. Do not test instruments with 12Vts as you may peg the meters (Bent pointer) or burn out their coils.
afterburner

 

I'm a little older then you guys and when I was stationed in England, circa 1950 (fun place) I use to see this fellow go out every night with a small petrol burning lantern about six inches tall and when he came back, no lantern! My curiosity go the best of me and I asked him where are all these lamps going? His reply. "How do you expect to keep my car from freezing if I don't have a lamp over the engine?" Then mumbled something about a stupid Yank! Later found out that was a common practice to put a petrol lamp under the hood overnight to prevent freezing.

 

Received 14 of the 20 LEDs order. They are bright enough but must be trimmed to go into their slot The problem is the locks are about 1/16" too long. A simple removal with a Dremal tool
In the process of fixing the driver side blower. My son removed the blower today. Tempted to remove the front seat, but laying on the seat and head under the dash job completed. Not as difficult as assumed, but awkward positioning.( A heavy meal before the job is not recommended.) Followed procedure in the Official Jaguar Repair Manual and read everything in this forum. This is a 1993 and different and easier than the earlier models. A 9/32 wrench and a universal elbow fitting are definitely needed for the job. Have not opened the blower casing to repair electronics, but will report on defective parts and repair...

 

Not really satisfied with Four LED's list above. These lights were trimmed with a Dremel Tool, but some LED separated from metal frame.

 

I was not satisfied with the bulbs purchased through Ebay. They did not fit properly and had to be trimmed. I ordered the next set of bulbs from superbrightleds.com. The base type is B8 5D and I found the 2 lumens was satisfactory and was pleased with the installation. It is important that you buy by color to match the indicators

 

I was, & still am, apprehensive about removing the dash and rummaging about on the pcb to change the bulbs. So I thought that the only bulbs that are important are the turn signals/hazard lights. Right, I thought, I'll change the flasher unit to a louder click, so I can hear the bally thing. I finally found a local CTC store with Tridon Electronic flasher "with louder audible click"... HD13.
I found the flasher unit in behind the left side under scuttle. Removed the existing flasher and installed the HD13 (three terminal) flasher.
Needless to say, (and the point of this post) is that it did not work. It blew first the turn signal fuse, and then, when I tried the hazard/four way flashers, it promptly blew that fuse too.
So my alternate plan to hear the turn signals came to nought.
Looks like I shall have to overcome the fear and pull the dash and replace the bulbs....
Not looking forward to that.

 

One more thing.....did the LEDs make any difference to the turn signals click rate ? aka did the signals operate as with a normal bulb ?
and also, did they dim down with the rotary light level knob ?
If you know what I mean...

 

I can fully appreciate that LEDs would be better (cooler) and brighter but after ordering some white LEDs from China, I tested them and they did work subject to correct + and - but they did not work when installed either way in the dash.
So I wonder if anyone has fitted larger wattage conventional bulbs ? I am thinking that R509TBBK B8.3D is the standard 1.2w bulb. But I would like to increase it 2w by using R509TBWH (also B8.3D)
Anyone see any problems with this ? I mean, will they even fit ? I think they will.
Any help greatfully received.

 

I just replaced all the bulbs in my early XJS with LED's.
Below is the order I placed with Superbright LED's. You may find them elsewhere cheaper, but I have had experiences with cheap 12v LED bulbs. They all fit except the smaller LED's, you will have to flip the wire connector over from one side to the other to ensure they contact the dash bulb contacts. I did all of my LED's and none broke.
Noticeable improvement for the warning lights too.
If you just want to order and be done with it, here it is:
PRODUCT(S) Qty Product/Options Price/Ea:
1 74-B: Blue 1.19
6 74-G: Green 1.19
3 74-A: Amber 1.19
9 74-R: Red 1.19
4 WLED-NW5: Natural White 3.94

 

Many thanks Typhoon.
M-u-c-h improved dash display ! Nice job.
As I have said, I would be content with just brighter turn signals, but once in there, I would do them all.
Gerry T.

 

Typhoon,
One further question...
Your examples show a flat LED. The items I bought out of China, are a more conventional "bulb" with a resistor on one side of the bulb hidden behind the plastic housing.
Q:- Are your items polarized, or will they work either way ?
The lugs on my items are just a little bit too long which requires much fiddling around to ensure they do get in there to secure the whole piece. Point taken as regards "making contact with the PCB.


Gerry T.

 

gerryXJs
I would not purchase bulbs until i determined why the LEDs did not work in the dash. As a trial I would place a bulb in the dash and ground its trace at the plug. and the other trace apply 12dc volts. (You can do this at your car battery)If the bulb fails to light reverse it in the socket. If it still doesn't light do it one more time with a different bulb in a different socket. Of all the bulbs I bought from China, I had no failures that I can remember
I set my dash up with T10s which do not fit the warning light's sockets and I also was able to solder on the plastic printed circuit with a 25 watt Iron. Just an FYI

PS: LED's are diodes and a diode will only pass current in one direction.Therefore if the LED doesn't light you reverse it in the socket.
Since as you said none of your bulbs lit, I would look to the plugs. in fact, I don't think either plug was making contact.

 

I did the LED conversion on my 89 dash and it works a treat. Had to repair a piece of the circuit board though as it prevented the LED for the tacho working. I also used superbright leds and would recommend them. Whilst not the cheapest they are great quality. I also used them in the centre consol to do the shift light (used green and removed the old green strip of plastic and in the lighter (changed that to green to match to rest of the instrumentation). I also used a high lumen output led for the fibre optics and now have great illumination on light, ignition and other switches.

 

Gerry, the bulbs I bought and have listed are wide angle bulbs. They always work best with warning lights as they don't generate a light "hot spot".
The bulbs are polarised and need to be inserted the right way of course. This is no issue, just turn ignition on and activate the relevant warning lamp. The bulbs I have listed are 100% correct on width, depth and length of the socket- they simply drop straight in after flipping the bulb terminal wires over to the opposite sides from how they ship. I went to the effort of measuring the end of the bulb with vernier calipers before I ordered. Many of the bulb types listed in this thread are incorrect applications for the sockets they are going in. In particular on earlier vehicles, the warning lamp bulb size is a very old specification and is not easy to find except from specialists such as Superbright. You MAY find them elsewhere, but not in the colour choices needed, and from one supplier.

 

On my 89 the superbright leds went straight in without changing the wires at all, as Typhoon has said just activate your relevent warning lamp to ensure that you have the polarity right. Just changing warning bulbs is easy as. But I would change the dial illumination while you're at it, its definately worth it.

 

Thanks for your replies.
Knowing that the LEDs are polarised, I did all that. I tested the bulbs before starting the install, and they DID work. If not one way, then I reversed the wires and they worked.
However, once placed in the 5th left and 5th right spots in the warning light array, for the turn signals, they did not work whether one way or the other being mindful of the polarity issue. The turn signals themselves did work - just not the dash---
I did note that the lugs which supposedly provide the juice on each side were very sharp and had a tendency to tear the copper strip. Fortunately I saw this and have re-installed the dim OEM bulbs. Otherwise I would have the challenge of repairing the copper strip.
I assume that the other little bits of metal that go through the hole are not part of the circuit, and are there only to secure the LED or bulb to the housing.
I just find it all a bit of a mystery why my LEDs won't work in the dash.