Clattering sound coming from underneath, forward half, modulates w/ speed
#21
#22
Make sure you are using premium gas as the car calls for,whenever you fill up,Jaguars like British Petroleum gas(BP) and 0w40 oil
Last edited by aode06; 11-27-2014 at 03:20 AM.
#23
1.Fill up with 93 octane and add a bottle of sea foam in the tank.
2.Remove all coils,remove the coil boots, spray the springs clean with electrical contact cleaner, let dry,replace any damaged boots, replace any coils showing damage at the tips of the coil,that the spring goes to.
3.Replace all your spark plugs.
4.Clean the MAF sensor by removing and spraying the electrical contact cleaner above on the metal reader wire that's inside the air box.
5.Replace your air filter,change your oil and filter, hit the highway
2.Remove all coils,remove the coil boots, spray the springs clean with electrical contact cleaner, let dry,replace any damaged boots, replace any coils showing damage at the tips of the coil,that the spring goes to.
3.Replace all your spark plugs.
4.Clean the MAF sensor by removing and spraying the electrical contact cleaner above on the metal reader wire that's inside the air box.
5.Replace your air filter,change your oil and filter, hit the highway
After seeing the condition of these systems, of all the easy 'tune-up' items, I started getting a bad feeling that despite the car's recent mechanic ownership history and having "a lot of stuff done to it", it may not have been a thorough as I had been trusting. Despite the lack of records because it was "all done at the shop with parts at cost"... This isn't holding water with me anymore. However, this was also 2 years ago and the car really has largely been very reliable and nearly a daily driver. Maybe the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school of thought was followed, which has some merit. But now I'm thinking the mere mention of 'tensioners' isn't good enough, and the car will mostly remain down for the next month or two while I can get that properly checked out, and I finish getting a new and solid baseline on this car.
Other than that, good progress! The CEL remains extinguished after a few dozen miles' worth of driving. It's got a slightly rougher idle for the first minute on a cold start, but the engine may still be recalibrating or getting the Sea-Foam through the system, not sure. But it smooths right out very shortly thereafter and runs as well as I ever remember it running.
All was looking up! Until the 'Engine Coolant Low' message came up. I got it home and let it cool. The coolant bottle later was still half-full (low?), but I obviously have a leak. I could very faintly smell coolant recently, and now can smell more of it- some hole in some hose has apparently gotten larger. Sure enough there's a very small puddle after turning it off too. Coming from the rear of the engine, so I'm thinking it's the octopus hose, as the two heater hoses in the valley under the SC were already changed several months ago with the same symptoms. Wonderful. But what was more concerning was that I've been using the Prestone GM DexCool orange coolant for two years now... and the coolant in the bottle is now green. WTF. An oil sample from the dipstick still looks and smells like 100% motor oil, so I don't think they're mixing somewhere... but is that what would cause that? This may need to be another thread.
I'm never going to get to the cats and exhaust at this rate...
Last edited by Sentinelist; 12-07-2014 at 03:49 PM.
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