I just got back from the machine shop.

Mike the machinist put the pump on his drill press, applied a little heat to the pump, lowered a reversing bit into the brass plug - and it came out!!!

The threads in the pump appear intact.

He had to remove the tank from one side of the pump and the motor from the other side of the pump to do his work. He reassembled it all when he was done. The drill never penetrated the bottom of the plug.

I hope to get together with my friend tomorrow to install the pressure reducer and install it all back in the car.

Assuming Mike's reassembly of the pump and motor were correct, I think this will all work. I'll see and report what happens.

Jack

 

Think positive!

 

This brings up an interesting point. What is the reason for the hole with the torx fitting? If the torx nut is semi-permanently installed, (and apparently not intended to be removed) why have a fitting there at all?

Doug

 

Just a guess, but it might be a test port they use to check pressure in the system when the car is manufactured.

 

Sounds like you are just about back in business, Jack. Good show!

 

Yeah, I'm trying to do what Gus recommended - Think Positive!!!

Hey, what could go wrong?

Jack

 

My best guess is that it is for testing or for other applications in other cars.

 

I assumed it was for the purpose it's being used for in Gus/Walt's application: To take excess fluid from a pressure relief valve and direct it back to the pump. Since Jaguar chose not to use a pressure relief valve, the port was just capped.

 

I thought that same thing but I would hate to think that was the case. If it is true a class action could be in line!

 

That's a good one and, if true, ironic.


Doug

 

Well, ya gotta figure that Jaguar didn't have a hydraulic pump custom made for the XK8. They put out a request for proposal asking vendors of hydraulic pumps to submit a pump that met Jag's specs. Whoever makes the pump probably just provided one that they were already using for some other application. Pump manufacturers know that usually there's going to be a pressure relief valve, so they built that feature into their pump. However Jag didn't want to spend the extra $35 for the valve and $15 for the two hoses, so they just capped the return.

 

I'm not sure that would be it. This pump manufacturer supplies such pumps for convertible top systems to many marques. So far, I haven't seen one that incorporates a relief valve.

Rather, the designs seem to rely on the hydraulic lines being adequate to handle the pump pressure. This Jaguar failed to do.

 

The very first units had the correct hoses installed and for that reason it had no reason for the valve. We had 1 or 2 reported. When the hoses were replaced with the Parker 363 hose is when the fun began. All that information is on my page. As for the pump it is used in other cars.

I hope by not seeing a post that all went well. I hope!

 

Gus,

I am meeting my friend in his garage (that is where the car is now) to install the pump 7:30am tomorrow. I will post results when done.

I am still Thinking Positively!!

Jack

 

You will do fine just take your time. Also I will be available but not at the computer.

 

Howdy Folks:
When I first tried to remove my plug, it was so tight that I immediately stopped trying manually. Then, lightly feathering the trigger,I used my 250lb 1/2" air impact gun. That did the trick however, the bit twisted permanently almost 20 degrees. (the bit has a 10mm hex shank and a hex to square adapter)

 

Wish I stopped. Instead I applied more force. Instead of twisting the bit, mine broke off in the brass fitting. I know better now.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I along with my friend will put it all together tomorrow morning. If it works I think I'll drive it home with the top down to celebrate.

Jack

 

Short story......

The top works!!! Goes down!!! Goes Up!!!

The pressure reduction device is installed.

Gus' power of Thinking Positive works!!!

Long story.....

My friend and I reconnected the six hydraulic lines. Filled the pump with Pentosin. Connected the electrical connections. Tried the top. Nobody home. The windows worked, but the top did not move a bit. Gave no indication that it would. Bummer. My first thought was that maybe the machine shop that took the pump apart did not put it together correctly. I continued to try. I cycled the top up and down. The windows moved but not the top. I hoped the pump and lines had air in them and needed to be purged. Around the fourteenth time I tried to put the top down and just the windows moved I was starting to question the power of Thinking Positive. Around the fifteenth time the top budged a little. The next time it went down!!! I can not tell you what a relief that was. I cycled the top up and down a few times to get any remaining air out. Topped the tank with Pentosin and reinstalled it in the permanant location. Tested it one more time.

Put the top down and drove home! It was a great drive!

Gus, thank you for all your help and advice.

A couple of tips and suggestions...

1. Consider adding some words to the instructions cautioning about overdoing the Torx plug on the side of the pump. It is really stuck in some of these things and they do not want to come out. My technique of simply applying more pressure until something happens is a recipe for disaster as explained in my previous posts. I am not sure what to tell new customers about how to properly get these plugs out if they are that difficult. I just know that applying a lot more pressure is not the answer.

2. When we tried to screw the new hydraulic line in the opening where the brass plug was, the adjacent hydraulic fitting was in the way. Other people have had this issue. Others have rapped the fitting with a hammer to get it to move out of the way. After my experience with the plug I did not want to do that. So, here is a more elegant technique that worked for me...

Next to the hydraulic fitting that is in the way is the brass T valve that releases pressure in the pump. If you remove it, it provides you access to put a wrench on the back of the hydraulic fitting. You can apply some pressure to the fitting and it will move enough to give you clear access to the hole where the brass plug was.

To remove the T valve, simply remove the two screws on either side of it, then turn the T valve counter-clockwise til it comes out.

Since I am a mechanical doofus, I would like some of the more seasoned hands on this board to critique this before someone else does it.

Conclusion...

Alls well that ends well. With the pressure reduction valve installed I will now use the top when I feel like it, instead of fearing the "green shower". Thanks again to Gus and Walt for developing this device. Great job!!

 

Kudos to you for seeing it through ! And also thank you for all the information that you added on this subject !

 

Congratulations on finally getting this done. It is interesting that it took so many cycles so purge air out of the system but at least this confirms that the system is self-purging.

I like your idea of removing the T-valve so that you could more easily get a wrench on the fitting that is in the way. When I was dealing with this obstruction, I was luckily able to get enough clearance by following Gus' recommendation of backing off the hose nut that goes to the fitting. Otherwise, I would have some reservations about applying a wrench to the fitting since that also might be prone to shearing/breaking with too much force. Careful use of a dremel might be better.

Doug