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One theory about the influx of RS vehicles could be a way for financially-limited YT'ers to get hold of cars that they normally couldn't afford. Depending upon their subscriber levels, I imagine some are thinking that they can make up the lesser value in the form of added views. Maybe.
OzXFR
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Watched his latest one yesterday.
He has finally figured out that getting the engine out through the top is virtually impossible and has now decided to drop it out the bottom.
Then he spends most of the vid rabbiting on about the Symposer and giving a fairly poor explanation of how/where it is connected and how it works.
He has finally figured out that getting the engine out through the top is virtually impossible and has now decided to drop it out the bottom.
Then he spends most of the vid rabbiting on about the Symposer and giving a fairly poor explanation of how/where it is connected and how it works.
I don't object to the Symposer sound in my S, so I've ignored it. However, this guy seems to be saying that there are electronics associated that are points of failure that could cause real problems. In particular, he says, if I understand him correctly, that there was wiring in that big bundle of stuff he held up that connects to a knock sensor. Is this true?
Are there bits of the Symposer that can cause problems beyond just affecting the sound if they fail? If so, does anyone have a recipe for how to remove the Symposer that eliminates those points of failure and does not throw codes?
Are there bits of the Symposer that can cause problems beyond just affecting the sound if they fail? If so, does anyone have a recipe for how to remove the Symposer that eliminates those points of failure and does not throw codes?
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No, he just chose to go off about Jag using a mechanical symposer over an electronic one. The thing about the knock sensors is that they share a connector, that's it. Whether or not the symposer parts are there has no effect on the operation of the knock sensors. You're fine.
Quote:
The thick ribbed symposer hose ended up cracking on my f-type and created a big vacuum leak causing my car to shake very badly. Had to seal tape it while I ordered an entire new symposer off Ebay... Originally Posted by Michael211
Are there bits of the Symposer that can cause problems beyond just affecting the sound if they fail? If so, does anyone have a recipe for how to remove the Symposer that eliminates those points of failure and does not throw codes?
Quote:
So the responses so far are thatOriginally Posted by Cwis
The thick ribbed symposer hose ended up cracking on my f-type and created a big vacuum leak causing my car to shake very badly. Had to seal tape it while I ordered an entire new symposer off Ebay...
1. There are no electrical points of failure in the Symposer that can cause any issues or codes with anything besides the Sym itself.
2. But, a vacuum line failure in the Sym can leak back into the rest of the vacuum system and cause a problem.
Given that the Symposer does not really add much value, it would seem like we might want to "delete" the Symposer to eliminate this POF. I'll search tomorrow to see if anyone has posted a recipe for this. Or you can post the link here if you have it handy.
OzXFR
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1. There are no electrical points of failure in the Symposer that can cause any issues or codes with anything besides the Sym itself.
2. But, a vacuum line failure in the Sym can leak back into the rest of the vacuum system and cause a problem.
Given that the Symposer does not really add much value, it would seem like we might want to "delete" the Symposer to eliminate this POF. I'll search tomorrow to see if anyone has posted a recipe for this. Or you can post the link here if you have it handy.
Therock88 has done it see here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2/#post2325141Originally Posted by Michael211
So the responses so far are that1. There are no electrical points of failure in the Symposer that can cause any issues or codes with anything besides the Sym itself.
2. But, a vacuum line failure in the Sym can leak back into the rest of the vacuum system and cause a problem.
Given that the Symposer does not really add much value, it would seem like we might want to "delete" the Symposer to eliminate this POF. I'll search tomorrow to see if anyone has posted a recipe for this. Or you can post the link here if you have it handy.
and here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...1/#post2325240
Thunder Dump
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Correct--see this thread. New electronic audio enhancement started with MY22:Originally Posted by SamtheSham
Did I read somewhere that this mechanical 'Symposer' has been replaced by an electronic one in later MYs?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...ngptsq-259847/
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Dwight Frye
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My 2021 F Type R has neither the Symposer or the electronic enhancement. I guess I lucked out. Not sure when the Symposer was dropped from the design, maybe some owners of 2020 and 2019 model years can chime in.
DJS
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I believe SassySarah described it in a recent post - it uses the audio system now.
Thunder Dump
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I believe it was dropped for MY21 and then returned in its electronic form starting in MY22.Originally Posted by Dwight Frye
My 2021 F Type R has neither the Symposer or the electronic enhancement. I guess I lucked out. Not sure when the Symposer was dropped from the design, maybe some owners of 2020 and 2019 model years can chime in.
skizot
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They make a delete kit. The symposer is the same one used in some ford and toyota motors I think. Agency Power Sound Symposer Delete Ford Focus ST | AP-FST-111 (vividracing.com)
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TR64ever
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I watched what he's done to date, an F-Type is a lot more complex than an old truck and Jaguar used an advanced 3-D CAD system to package everything very tightly. Approaching the F-Type and attempting to pull the engine with no manual or instruction, "I'll just try it my way" is going to end in tears. I toured Castle Bromwich F-Type factory and it's amazing to see the bodies coming down from the top and the drive train going up to join together on the assembly line. A lot of key fasteners are hidden unless you dismantle in the right sequence. He is a Timex mechanic working on a Rolex. I am incredibly grateful to our community here on the Forums for posting great "how tos" and documenting the complex repairs they are doing.
I'm an original owner of a MY2015 and thinking about diving in this winter to replace all the radiator/coolant hoses and assemblies, water pump, service the SuperCharger (oil change), I've already sourced the new Aluminum water pipes for the front of the engine. I would never consider doing this without spending the time on this forum to research what needs to be done ahead of time (and I have the full service manual for my VIN).
I'm an original owner of a MY2015 and thinking about diving in this winter to replace all the radiator/coolant hoses and assemblies, water pump, service the SuperCharger (oil change), I've already sourced the new Aluminum water pipes for the front of the engine. I would never consider doing this without spending the time on this forum to research what needs to be done ahead of time (and I have the full service manual for my VIN).
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I posted earlier that he may do this for his on-screen persona of "how hard can it be." He may think that saying "first, I spent hours researching how to do this right", would hurt channel clicks. I've become cynical of YT people and suspect that they'll say or do anything to increase viewership, and the best way of doing things is ignored. It's all about clicks and the subscription count.
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Quote:
Yeah I can't really believe anybody WOULDN'T try a Google search for the shop guide or even pay (using the YouTube ad revenue) for a set of instructions to do it painlessly. But that delicious ad revenue is how the likes of Hoovie keep Car Wizard in business I guess ;-)Originally Posted by kb58
I posted earlier that he may do this for his on-screen persona of "how hard can it be." He may think that saying "first, I spent hours researching how to do this right", would hurt channel clicks. I've become cynical of YT people and suspect that they'll say or do anything to increase viewership, and the best way of doing things is ignored. It's all about clicks and the subscription count.
An interesting part for me is how after all the cuts, rips and slices made on this poor engine he is going to manage to put everything back together again as it should be. Particularly, without a shop guide.
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I wonder the same. Without bagging every nut and bolt, how can he know whether he's missed something putting it back together. Or even more likely, putting it together out of sequence and being unable to access a missed bolt or connector later. As others have mentioned, there are adjacent sensors with identical connectors, Get them backwards and they'll be impossible to get at once it's back together. It almost makes me think it's just YT contrived drama (who knew!), that "no one would really do this for real". I'm probably giving him too much credit to think that behind the scenes, he's actually careful and is researching it. I say that because it's in his best interest (meaning clicks and $$$) to have it go back together and actually work. The way it's being presented though, it seems like there's about a 50% chance of the reassembly going wrong, and that's just hard to believe. Who knows.
I expect he is indeed bagging a lot of nuts and bolts, mainly the ones that won't have an obvious home when reinstalling. I have a real appreciation for his channel, though. I've done my fair share of work on my own vehicles, plenty enough to know he's way more competent and knowledgeable than I am and I'm not exactly ignorant. His confidence and willingness to just jump right in to daunting jobs is appealing and impressive.





