I wish I took some pics of when I did my pump the other day. With the fuel filter line disconnected I had plenty of room. There may be a ground wire attached to the back of your tank, driverside. That may be holding you up. Mine was missing but I noticed it in other peoples pictures. Theres another thread that was helpful, let me find it and post the link. The guy took lots of pics.

 

Ah, here you go: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...t-start-10157/

This guy didn't disconnect anything, its all in how you maneuver the tank. Check out the pics toward the bottom.

 

I just don't see how this is possible.... When I pull the tank forward the metal fuel line underneath slams to the top of the underbody preventing the tank from pulling out any futher... Maybe the guy got lucky and had some longer fuel lines under the car?

There is maybe 1/2 of clearance from the top of the tank to the bottom of rear "shelf" so tipping the tank forward is impossible, other than getting to tip just a bit. (removed the cd changer of course).

I supposed if I pulled hard enough 1 of 2 things would happen. The line pulls out of the tank damaging the port or 2 the fuel line bends to allow the tank to come more forward.

I am not getting hung up on anything... definately the fuel lines are preventing the tank from coming out further.

Think I am going to try an make that extra long line release tool out of copper toilet pipe and see if I can get the lines to release.

 

I don't know man, maybe his lines were different, who knows. Do what you gotta do I guess. Let us know how it works out.

 

I have an 02 x-type, and while this is slightly off topic, do you need to use the factory fuel pump, or will an off brand pump still work? I am having my car towed to the dealer tomorrow, and I think it's the fuel pump that has gone bad.

 

That's a great video. It should be FAQed.

 

FAQed , thanks for the reminder

 

What about another (different) approach to this situation...

One could remove the backseat and the rear parcel shelf and cut a opening right on top where the access hole in the tank is.
That way you could do all the work from inside the car without ever touching the tank and all it's lines and connectors.

It's definitely no clean procedure, but it should work.
And in the end your cutout would be hidden by the parcel shelf and the trunk cover panel.
No one would see it.

Just a thought...


David

 

I've taken a few tanks out, having the fuel line release tools is the way to go. I personally would not cut a steel panel out right above a tank full of fuel vapours, not a good idea in my view. The only way to cut it would be oxy torch or grinder with a cutting disc, both of which generate enough heat to cause an explosion.

To take the tank out isn't a big job.

 

I thought of using metal shears or a nibbler:

 

Learning that it is easier said than done :-)

So I managed to talk my wife into crawling under the car and putting the release tool on the line (small hands/arms) ... She has it shoved in as it will go, against the rubber, and the line will not come out... She can push the line in a bit, so the line itself is not stuck, the damn thing just won't release.

Tried both the offical jaguar quick disconnect release tool and a generic one....no difference.... I fabricated up a tool from 3/8" copper toilet pipe (as someone else did here in the forumns) and I (she) is going to try that tonight.

If I can't get it to release it might come down to a decision to cut the fuel lines or the package shelf. Probably inclined to go the package shelf route....

 

You'll be there until next year with anything unpowered, it's a stress bearing panel, so not easy to cut. I've been known to chop a fuel hose, just saying.

 

Let me know if you have problems with the copper release tool. I'm hoping the time I spent designing/making it will be of use to you. Don't forgett to put a little chamfer on the end.

Here is the link to the original thread.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...ank-out-34473/

 

I learned a little secret when changing my fuel filter. It uses the exact same type of connector. I'm going to do my best to describe the way it works. On the fuel filter I learned that it was easier to just put some pliers on the connector and push it to the side. That's not possible when the connector is in the fuel tank, however. But still, this may help:

The connector is spring-loaded. In it's normal position the spring pushes on the piece that holds the fuel line so that it is off-center in the connector. The off-center piece has a little ramp on it. When you slide the tool up into the connector, the tool slides against that ramp and forces the off-center piece to center itself. Once it's centered, the fuel line can then slide out. But as long as the ramp is slightly off-center, the lip on the end of the fuel line catches on the lip of the off-center piece and the fuel line can't slide out.

So, having explained how the whole thing works, here are my suggestions:

1. Jiggle, jiggle, jiggle. When the tool is pressed up into the connector, jiggling the fuel line may make it move around enough to slip through the hole in the off-center piece. If you're just pulling straight, it isn't going to come out unless it is perfectly centered. But jiggling may move things around enough to get it to find the right spot.
2. Use a very very thin screwdriver rather than the plastic tool. I'm not sure which way the off-center piece is situated, but by sticking the screwdriver up into the space on the edge of the connector, you may be able to feel which way the off-center piece needs to move. Then you can move the off-center piece to the side and jiggle the fuel line.
3. I thought I had more ideas, but that's about it...

I'll try to find a video I made that shows how the connector works.

 

Update... Tried and tried with the homemade tool and standard disconnects... the fuel line will not release from the tank.

I just saw the post about trying a thin screw driver so I might try that.... Otherwise I guess I'll be cutting a hole in the shelf.....

 

Hmm... only other things I might suggest is to push up on the line a little bit while shoving the tool inside and then trying to pull down on the line. I assume you saw my note about having a rope or something attached to the line that would allow you to pull down on the line easily. Also there a number of brackets that the fuel lines are routed through, may be helpful to remove them from the brackets.

Additionally many people drop the rear end for easier access.

 

I've tried this... pulled, pushed in about every combination.... I've disconnected my fuel lines at the fuel rail before so I do have some sense of how it is supposed to work.

I am wondering if I've damaged the springs in the port with my efforts to try and get the tank out into the trunk with the lines attached. I've tried to not pull hard on the tank but maybe I've still done something to damage them..

 

Before cutting a hole in the shelf I think I'd just cut the fuel lines. They should be pretty easy to solder back together. And if you don't want to solder, just get some hose and clamps and make a joint with the hose after you put the tank back in (the solder joint would be much better, however). At Lowes or Home Depot you can buy a compact tubing cutter which will leave a nice, smooth, straight edge on the joint. There's not enough room to fit a full-size tubing cutter up in there, but the compact one should work. Repairing a cut fuel line would be much easier than repairing a giant hole in the sheet metal.

 

Just an update to my saga.... I haven't been able to work on the Jag for the past week or so it has been on jack stands until today...but...

The good news is I was about to pull the tank into the trunk with the fuel lines attached and got the pump out! So I figured I has this beat, however....

I got a new pump (autozone) and it fit perfectly in the bracket... no trimming required (perhaps a new model?).

Before I even connected the pump I made sure I continuity running through the flange and all of the connectors... It did. I measured about 4 ohms through the whole thing with the pump connected. So you would think I would be good? Not!

I hooked it up and I wanted to make sure the new pump was going to actually run before I started closing stuff up. So I turned the key to on and connected the battery terminal in the trunk. Relay clicked but no sound from the fuel pump. Put my meter on the "back" of the terminals where it connects directly to the fuel pump..... as expected, I got 12V for ~ 5 seconds when battery connected.

Ordinarily I would say I got a bad pump but given the circumstances of how I got here, I did one more test... Directly power the pump with wire connected to the battery. Guess what? Ran just fine... So new pump is good... Just for fun I hooked up the OLD pump.... guess what? IT runs! (though it sounds pretty feeble compared to the new one).

So even though 12V makes to the pump there must be a current restriction going through that magical black box in the middle of the connector between the pump and the inside evap flange -such that the motor can't turn.

Does anyone know what that black box in the connector does? Is it a fuse? Can I remove it and directly wire the thing up?

I will post some pictures of my adventures once I actually get the thing running.

Thanks for any help!

 

Just another quick update... It turns out that the black box was not the issue. The scary part is I do not know what was.

I was testing voltages trying to figure out where the juice was going and I accidentally touched my testing leads together. This of course blew the fuse so I replaced it, after that the pump started running... I double checked every connector, push/pulled on them while the pump was running to be sure there was no intermittent connections - everything was good inside the tank.

So it is all back together... I have yet to actually turn it on yet... I spilled a little bit of gas in the trunk when filling it, so I am going to wait for that to complete dry out before creating a spark connecting the battery terminal :-).