Greetings. '65 3.8S, Sync4, OD, PAS, BRG/Biscuit back on the road after 30 years.
 

Greetings to all. Member since 2012. My very long labour of love comes home after nearly 30 years in resto due to my long overseas expat assignment. Restorations are never really finished but I thought I would post a few casual pics taken over the last few months ~ hi res stuff later. In retirement I've been commuting to Johannesburg (where my restorer is) to get her finished. Some pics are work in progress & I still have some corrections to make, decals to attach, fit voltage regulator shroud, breather tube elbows & clips etc. etc. ad infinitum. She is a totally rust free car & came to coast for the first time yesterday since assembly at CDA East London, SA in 1965. Colour is '76 XJ version of BRG. Pictures do not render actual colour well.. More bottle green in real life. Excuse dirty tyres etc. Just done 1300 Km on the back of a transporter & rained on. Thorough detailing required.



https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3b164a40ab.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8bb71cd556.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0942ee6e56.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...615b86fdd6.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4b616ca4b4.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3a4e6d4f79.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...eefb3ac897.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...025609ec30.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a95c15eb92.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3fa2886cd2.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4aee299f17.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bf3bcc12ad.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...553dc37619.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...88e30cc441.jpg

wonderful !

Impressive! Lovely car. The engine detail and interior work are especially nice...

Thanks for sharing!

JR

Thanks for the kind words folks!

EDIT: Out of interest every external light on this car is NOS. The originals on the nose were quite sandblasted. Interior lighting was refurbished as were all instruments, switches etc.

You're a lucky man to have a car like that.! Beautiful car !!

Glyn - that looks fantastic. Having restored a MK2 myself I know that, judging by the standard, you have spent a LOT of time on restoration. That looks better than new !! Well done !!

Thanks once again for the kind comments. Lots of time & money ~ getting like the Greece national debt LOL.

One thing that I can recommend is that I had both master cylinders, the hydrostatic long clutch slave cylinder & all calipers stainless steel lined & bored to standard so you can use the genuine rebuild kits. We have found at the southern tip of Africa that for low usage classics this obviates corrosion issues in the hydraulics. Brake & clutch fluid flush every 2 years is still recommended. (sorry ~ the oil man in me)

Running backwards & forwards between my upholstery & trim guy & my resto guy. S Type headliner is a pain to install.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...425c286bf9.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2b5f0d98a4.png


Restoration by Viljoen's Classic Auto with endless interference, research & parts sourcing by yours truly (Erens is a saint). I'm an anal Virgo

Upholstery kit by John Skinner UK

Upholstery & trim Master ~ Jan van Zyl ~ Krugersdorp ~ also did an amazing Dynamat job

All hydraulics, stainless sleeving & PAS recon by Summit Brake & Steering, Rivonia, Sandton

99.9% of spares by SNG Barratt UK ~ Thank you Thomas Rochelle for outstanding service

Great local support by Gerald Williams ~ Jagman ~ Somerset West

Chromium Plating by African Electroplating ~ Thank you Peter Posniak

Wheels ~ MWS UK

Slowly collecting pics. Early pics are pre digital. I will endeavour to scan. Still have protective film on some chromework & treadplates.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...805aa7868f.jpg

Your guys have done a great job for you, it looks fantastic, welcome to the forum.

Thank you. I fired my first restorer (claimed to be one of SA's finest ~ he is not). Erens (who is a Studerbaker man) has been an absolute star & in my retirement I've been able to spend plenty of time with him guiding the process towards my goal. He has immense talent in many disciplines. This is his first Jag & first go at doing woodwork. I rest my case. He is now moving to some valuable Benz models/classics. Thanks to all of you for contributing to an Internet Brands Forum. I'm a Mod at MBWorld approaching 20,000 posts helping a wonderful group of people with their cars. I've been very quiet here since 2012 but you guys have helped me immensely for which I'm eternally grateful.

Wiring Diagram
 

This precious document. So much easier to follow than the WS manual B&W horror. Credit ~ Jaguar S Type Register.

See hi-res pdf. attached. I keep a laminated copy handy at all times.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d9d6bccc3c.jpg

That is cool.............. Now your challenge ......... to find me one for a Mk2 as well !

here you go TilleyJon, one is .png, one is .jpg format.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8d3f573484.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...35735fcf6b.png

Thanks Jose, they are well laid out, unfortunately at A3 they are almost unreadable, they are quite fuzzy, can you send them Hi Res ?

TilleyJon, I downloaded those online by searching "mk2 electrical chart". There are many sites and images to choose from. There is a site in AU but they sell them.

Finishing off underbody ~ the not so pretty side ~ Pics during work in progress ~ lots to do. Checking all torques, fitting all split pins & wiring of bolts, locking all tabs & washers, harness tidy up, mounting & cleaning up pipework ~ removing zip ties, paintwork touch up, final exhaust alignment, fitting new grease nipples & greasing with long life polyurea grease, checking all fluid levels, a few final dents removed etc. etc. & the list goes on. Underside correct ~ body colour over schutz/stonechip.

After this a full underbody wash & clean was done. Guess what? We forgot to take a photograph LOL! I will photograph when she is next on a hoist.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3ed2296a99.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3c136d4e95.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f99fc37da8.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f911460fe8.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2881939681.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8d0aea7914.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...6ac9aa0293.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e1e69cdaf8.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...530eec3193.jpg

I have not decided whether to put the original factory markings on the springs yet. I have seen IRS springs with Blue, Yellow & Red markings. Seems most S Types were Blue. Does anybody know what they mean?

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f295b6f54e.jpg

Spring colour coding has been used for years and is still used today by some manufacturers for identification, it gives a quick visual check that the correct part is being fitted, as far as I know different manufacturers used different colours for different but similar parts, often with an extra colour for just off tolerance springs, so that matched pairs are fitted to the car on assembly.

It can make a greater difference today as the same car could be fitted with a host of options and its weight would change, so a stiffer spring would be fitted to compensate, was not as critical in the 60's as there were not so many options.

This is my understanding, and may not in reality be fact ! Someone else may well have better info.

I thought it must have something to do with matching spring rates on visually similar items. e.g. a 420G would use a different spring rate to an E Type etc.

The second total respray.
 

After getting the underside coated with Schutz/Stonechip & body colour & interior with body colour. Getting the all important engine compartment looking pristine. Paint used. Glasurit Porsche self healing primer. Final coats Spies Hecker.

First respray.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...02d3486b62.jpg

Second Respray (due to first & ultimately fired restorer allowing the shell to deteriorate without progress)

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a4d14b5b51.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...1c74c9f732.jpg

I wish mine looked like that

Steering wheel
 

Huh! My non concours 15" bespoke shallow dish steering wheel arrived from Italy. Understand just 4 of these made. For everyday use. (excuse rotten pic ~ the anodising is perfect)


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2d11ec92d9.jpg

Will fit with Moto Lita hub ~ Might substitute Jaguar Coventry horn push.



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3ebe575d6e.jpg

Getting rid of Jaguar's easily distorted press board rear armrests/magazine pockets & replacing with ones manufactured in ABS.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d51d210c91.jpg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...b5263cd91a.jpg

other than the front tops of the seats and the two front "kick" panels, the 1964 upholstery in my 1965 S type is still intact, I imagine it must have something to do with the weather in which the car has lived. Too hot or too humid.

Probably ~ I had 3 sets of rear door cards & armrests & none of them were worth re-covering from exposure to the African sun. That cardboard like press board that Jaguar used for parts like this & the glovebox was junk. I did manage to find a decent glove box & have it re-flocked. I'm also a fussy pain in the butt! LOL!

Re-flocked glove box. Also re-flocked the toolkit tray.



https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...621a7e8455.jpg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4f72177e03.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4abae67d1f.jpg

That looks very good,
is it hard to do,
thanks

Electrostatic flocking is quite an art, especially when doing 3 dimensional objects & getting all the electrodes in the right place. You need the right equipment to achieve flock alignment. They built a model of my glovebox & practiced on that first. The flock itself is hand applied to 3D objects with a fancy charged spray gun. Flock fibre length & colour is your choice.



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...93616f899b.png


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a880a6ffde.jpg

Gauge refurbishment
 

Many restorations are spoiled IMHO by the fitting of tired old gauges to a beautifully restored dash. I decided I would refurbish mine

This is a set of refurbished E Type gauges that inspired me.



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...b8a5228ba7.jpg



1) Clean exterior of gauges with Autosol
2) Bayonet glass retaining rings from gauge body
3) Glass anti-rattle "rubber" seal will have deteriorated.
4) Remove remains of the seal & clean up remaining black residue
5) I got a medical "rubber" company to extrude 5 metres of 2.5mm OD x 1mm ID black silicone tubing (perfect replacement seal)
6) Clean up metal rings and respray in matched satin black
7) Clean the gauge faces & hands with a photographic puffer brush, cotton or foam buds & a mild alcohol water solution. Be careful with white screening on face & hands. It must be clean but is fragile.
8) Clean glass to a spotless shine both sides. You do not want a fingerprint or dust inside your gauge. Especially when lit.
9) Cut the new pipe seal to desired length.
10) Reassemble the gauges in a dust free environment & fit a suitable new O Ring to each before remounting.

Sit back & admire your handy-work ~ It can be most rewarding. :icon_biggrin:



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2a5c050130.jpg



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3a183f6e1d.jpg

Notes:

1) Old Sonicare toothbrush helps with Autosol
2) Isopropyl Alcohol & Acetone are your friend cleaning up black residue. Just be careful working with them. They are not friendly to all surfaces.
3) Slight warming with a hairdryer helps un-bayoneting rings & maybe a slight nudge with a small flat tipped screwdriver. (tip covered with masking tape). No bending required.
4) I suppose something like WD40 could be used to aid the turning of a stubborn ring to line up the tabs with the slots but then you are going to have to clean off the oily residue afterwards.


Also replated the metal backing plate like this. Sorry I can't find my S Type picture. It is somewhere. You can see it peeping above the wood in one of the above pictures.



https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...79b61db66c.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4042c0dadf.jpg


Gauge refurbishment



https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...21867d8bff.jpg


Jig for glazing vent windows after rechroming with new glazing rubber:



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...65e86772b4.jpg

The shattering amount of internal chromework these cars have & this excludes some of the wood attachment pieces such as dash top, glove box, tray, vent window levers, gear lever & handbrake lever etc.



https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2bc307b2cb.jpg

First let me state that we were novices to refinishing of the car's interior woodwork. I consider British Autowood to be the gold standard in this art.

So we asked a lot of questions & did a lot of research, took a lot of advice & got on with the job. I was worried about yellowing & durability that led us to a locally made product by Chem Spec that came highly regarded by Rolls & Bentley wood refinishers in SA.



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0eb5038aec.jpg



All woodwork was hand sanded back to base. Lightly stained to the desired colour & many layers of lacquer applied with sanding in between layers. We had no curing acceleration/baking facility available to us so we used good old sunlight. Sinking or slumping into the soft grain is a common problem with Jaguar woodwork so we sun exposed all the lacquered wood for 6 months prior to doing final lacquer coats, sanding & polishing.

We made a conscious decision not to use stripper on the wood. Business friends from BASF/Glasurit warned us that it is very difficult to fully neutralise it in this application & can cause issues down the line.

Excuse the severe red push on my restorer's camera/cellphone. It isn't that red.



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...027f8ef0ab.jpg



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c951a16c4b.jpg



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...46b321e33a.jpg



https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...38e6c38e12.jpg



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d34849a7c2.jpg



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4d41314f2e.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8da22abcc1.jpg



https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e470b1bbab.jpg



https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d13bc0dded.jpg



After polishing ~ I think we did OK ~ I'm not going to repeat pics at beginning of the thread. See there for finished job.



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cbffcaaf45.jpg



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...b0f5481661.jpg



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...29a919f35e.jpg



https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f43395757a.jpg

Orientation of pull handles on the tray and glove box lid

As this has been queried I thought I should clarify.

Glove Box lid & Tray handles are correctly fitted in opposing orientation on RHD cars & aligned orientation on LHD cars.


In RHD cars the glove box & tray handles are mounted in opposing orientation like this.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c1e7ad5b02.jpg


In LHD cars the glove box & tray handles are mounted in the same orientation.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...23eed85efc.jpg


Some early cars had a chrome finger pull on the glove box lid as shown in the brochure.



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...6756b9bab2.jpg


Photo courtesy of Alan Wiedie

Fantastic news! After jumping through all the hoops ~ Police clearance, weighbridge, data dotting, endless paperwork etc. etc. my car is now registered and back on the system after 30 years. Temporary permit will be issued next Tuesday. Booked for roadworthy next Friday. Then period metal number plates will be fitted instead of modern plastic jobs & she is back on the road. Phew http://www.jagstyperegister.com/foru..._e_biggrin.gif

I will then be fitting final Decals, Stickers & Plates. We have been discussing this issue here.

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=235

Then long leisurely, and not so leisurely, drives to run her/break her in. Studiously ignoring Jaguar's suggested mileages & methods on antiquated oil formulations.

That is good news Glyn, almost there now.

Thanks TJ. Of course the horns have just ceased to operate. Sod's law. Flapped down the centre dash & the 50 amp horn fuse (old British 1 second blow rating reproductions) has fallen apart ~ not blown. Badly made glass tube that is thick one side & wafer thin the other.

Now to find my spares after moving them from Johannesburg to Cape Town. Or fit a modern day carry-current rated fuse for now. (Sorry ~ me being an anal Virgo)

Wow! Just Stunning!
 

That car would look right at home on the field next month at Amelia Island!
​​​​​​​Fantastic work.