Well Jon, you deserve a medal for attempting a job like that! I recall the same door on my car was pretty bad too, I think I ended up grafting a bottom section from another door (later S Type I think), the skin seemingly in better condition than yours. Funny how they all seem to cop the car cancer in different spots to varying degrees. Filler is a God-send, but in the wrong hands bodgers have a lot to answer for!:mad:

That door was quite the mess. I look forward to seeing the progress on it. Nothing like getting the old paint and filler off to see what you actually have to work with.

Progress on this door will be delayed, Martin Robey don't have a door skin in stock will be 2 -3 weeks !

I will strip the last door and see what horrors await me on that one. I will then blast off the inside and prepare all the repairs, and await the skin. I guess I can clear up the workshop from all the filler dust in the meantime.

The door weighs a few pounds less with all the filler cut off.

Never a shortage of things to do!

Isn't that the truth ! :icon_toast:

I had a friend make up some lower front door skin repair sections, I will weld these in and seam them up to repair the lower section of the front doors, there is also some rot in the bottom of one door.

This will be cut out in sections to maintain reference points during the repair process, I will fabricate sections and make the repairs to the reinforcing corner piece which strengthens the mount for the lower hinge.

Water which leaks past the windows sits in this area and causes this issue, I will add a hole for cavity injection into this section for future protection.

I will make the repairs to the frame, and will blast off the internal areas of the doors before I repair the skin, this will allow me as much access as possible for the blasting and I will paint as much as I can with epoxy paint before closing the skin off for the same reason. I will then paint the inside of the door frame with further epoxy paint for added protection, this will be cavity waxed at a later date.

Very neat panel work Jon, goes to show with a bit of nouse & patience a solid repair can be achieved. I noticed with my repair job (much the same) the drain holes on the later S model doors were changed, I guess because the Mk 2 ones clogged up too easily, causing all of us much grief some 50 years on!

Thanks Red,
Interesting, what are the changes to the drain holes, it may be that there is a very practical reason that I could incorporate at this stage ?

Any pics please

Got some more of the repairs to this door done this afternoon.

More rot where the felt pads sit, I will replace these pads with neoprene when I re-skin the doors to stop water being absorbed as neoprene is a closed cell material, this will prevent future corrosion.

Next, to strip the last door tomorrow and see what awaits me there !

Well I removed the window frame and all bits from the last door, as you can see it doesn't look too bad, a little bit of surface rust on the bottom, and then --- tell tale sign of a repair to the skin at the bottom, so I hit it with the grinder and yes there is all the filler, so I didn't waste anymore time, off with the lower section of the skin and strip the paint.

You will see a section I cut through the bit I removed to show how a great repair is made with filler !

Hey ho, I made a spare skin repair section while I was doing the other one just in case so straight forward repetition of the other front door except the door frame was in pretty good order with no further repairs to make.

That is a lot of filler coming off the car. It’s going to be a lot lighter:). Nice work with the door repairs.

By comparison I think it may be the first lightweight Mk2, does that increase it's value ?

Jon,
I know you have been busy with your doors, but I was wondering if you have done anything more with your rear speaker mounting on the parcel shelf. I want to do something pretty soon, and I was selfishly hoping to learn from your experience.:icon_toast:
Lin

Hi Lin, I will get on it next and post some pics for you, the rear speakers are on order and will be with me later in the week.

Cool! Thanks, Jon. I am about order the same rear speakers.
Lin

Got the doors blasted off internally, treated with Phos x metal prep, and then coated everything inside the door that I can only access before the skins are repaired with Epoxy mastic paint, this should stop and future corrosion together with Dinitrol cavity wax at a later stage after painting.

I have a couple of very small holes to still do that became apparent after blasting, and to install the skin repairs, then a full couple of coats of Epoxy Mastic primer and they will be ready for prep and paint.

I will get more primer on the inside face and edges and the finished colour just leaving the outside face to complete with the full respray.

Started getting the repair skins on today, rear door went on well, still some tidying up to do on the welding, tack welded to keep distortion to a minimum, the one rear door went well also.

I had a problem with the second rear door, this one had been battered and filled, so there was some distortion, I didn't allow enough for the shrinkage in the door, and mistakenly pushed the new panel in to meet the old metal.

With the small amount of shrinkage from the weld also, there was a long curve left in the door, so I had to cut the seam open again and manipulate the panel, having to pull the joint open almost 1/8" to get the skin back into shape. Stupid mistake, and a real pain !

I have been trying to complete the door repairs and have 2 doors back on, still a little fettling to do, and will post more pics shortly.

I between I have made a start on the rear speaker enclosure, the pictures probably explain better than words, due to the shape of the rear parcel shelf I need to make a shaped packer.

This will essentially be an 18mm duplicate of the top of the speaker box, but with holes cut to the outside diameter of the speakers, this will fill the void between the parcel shelf and the speaker box, so this can be sealed to the shelf, the shelf will have sound deadening applied underneath and before the box is finally fitted.

I will tidy up the box and this will be covered in speaker carpet or similar to tidy it all up.

I will do a drawing with dimensions for the components, parcel shelf etc. (especially for Lin)

Hah, thank you Jon!:icon_toast:
What are you using as your outside speakers to accompany the subs?

Lin

Focal Expert PC 130F Flax cone coaxial speakers to complement the Flax cone speakers that I have for the front.

It is quite a tight squeeze, well, not much room for error, had to mount both the box and parcel shelf together and then mark the positions of the compartments in the speaker box relative to the parcel shelf, and then work out where I could fit the speakers as near to centre of the compartments as possible.

The parcel shelf is 7 3/4" at it widest point, and the compartments for the subs are 7 1/2" by 7 1/2" internal, plus 3/4" ply all round making the box 9" total front to back, so the speakers wont sit centrally, and the curve of the parcel shelf only just allows for clearance of the coaxial speakers. I will update when I have finished the setup, and made the curved closing piece in the boot, with some dimensioned drawings.

Hopefully Primaz will approve of my approach and that I haven't made any Audio Faux Pas