Jaguar Mk2 restoration in Poole, Dorset
 

there are many methods for removing surface rust but I like this one best:

https://youtu.be/CV3LdvTXeb8

Phosphoric acid still takes a lot of beating.

Media blast after stripping everything off, then phosphoric acid then weld through primer,

Have you got the new door skins already, it looks like you may have cut the original skins a little too high ! You cannot get full replacement skins as far as I know.

You cannot get the frame support brackets, you will need to fabricate them.

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news but have you checked how far up the door skin repairs panels come? I don't think they go as far us as where you have cut them back.

That was my thoughts, hence asking if he already had the skins in my earlier post, looks like they are an inch or 2 too high !!!

Rust is an absolute bugg**, Kurust is not a one stop finish, and arguably not the best product either. Small amounts of rust will still exist especially if the treatment is not scrubbed into the surface.

Rust converters are very useful in areas that you cannot get at, but in my opinion blast cleaning is the best way, followed by Phosphoric Acid, such as Phos Kleen A https://www.rust.co.uk/product/phos-...st-remover-127 , Rustbuster does a rust converter, which I have used, but the best converter I have found is Dinitrol RC900, this is an epoxy based converter, so leaves a much harder finish when dry and is in my opinion the best I have used.

I always remove as much rust as possible, by cutting and welding or blast cleaning the prep and paint as previous. I would not use a rust converter on anything I could blast off.

Inside a chassis rail for instance I would clean as much loose rust as possible with air line etc. then RC900, and then use a cavity wax which has rust converters in, but these have to be used ongoing as maintenance is required to ensure long term protection, so every year or so the cavity injection is repeated, this will ensure chassis rails and cills are kept in the best condition you can.

It will be interesting to see the door skins you have offered up against the doors, where did you get them from ?

I have an MSB blasting kit which does the job pretty well, your compressor will still struggle, although they recommend an 8 cfm compressor, 20 cfm would be more appropriate, my compressor is 14 cfm and that still won't keep up for longer than 10 - 15 mins.

The cheapest media is kiln dried sand, sharp sand does have some slightly larger particles which will clog up, and the sand is not dry enough to run through a blaster.

The biggest thing when blasting is DRY air and I mean DRY, the air will get quite warm when blasting for any length of time, this will allow the air to hold much more water in suspension which will dump itself in the blaster when it cools down resulting in blocking, take a guess how I know that !

I struggled through this way, but meant to build a cooler/drier arrangement, if you take the output from the compressor though a coil of 10mm copper pipe say 25mtr long and then into a second small (50ltr) tank, the air will coll enough to condensate and drop in the second tank when you can drain it off. Once the air is cool a water separator will work much better, but get the best water separator you can a preferably a drier too, but the biggest thing is to cool the air enough to allow it to release the water vapour as condensation before it hits the blast tank.

Also buy some spare ceramic nozzles and a couple of spare taps for the blasting end and DO NOT blast with the valve part open, you will find out why when the sand comes out the side instead of the end -- again ask me how I know that too !

You will need overalls, ear defenders (also stops your ears filling with debris) and invest in an air fed mask now, get one with replaceable "peel off" visor protectors and get yourself several of those, you can use the air fed mask for spraying too, it's worth investing in it early on as you will get much more use from it and thank me that you had it. (try blasting without one and you will see why --- wonder how I know that !) The hoods they send with the kits are rubbish and steam up so you can't see a damn thing in 5 mins. Cover everything you don't want covered in a thick layer of brown dust, and have a nice hot bath afterwards !!!

Filthy job, but very rewarding doing it. Do sections at a time, and when the dust settles you will see bits you missed so you can sort those out, and don't leave it blasted without Phosphating for more than a few hours unless you are going back over the area as you will get micro rusting quite quickly especially in the winter months.

You can reuse the sand/debris mix a couple of times as long as it is still nice and dry, but you will need to sieve it with a fine sieve (just like a sieve for flour when cooking) anything bigger will allow particles that will block the nozzle.

The other way is to get someone else to blast it for you, but where's the fun in that and you won't be able to blast off all those little bits later, it's great when you cut out some rust and find surface rust underneath, you can blast it all off before and after welding and before further treatment.

I would get the high zinc primer and epoxy mastic primer from www.rust.co.uk they are really good quality, you will need extra epoxy thinners and will need to warm the cans of epoxy mastic up as they are very thick when cold, I got the epoxy in red oxide colour, then applied another coat of grey epoxy from a regular paint supplies such as Rainbow Paints in Bournemouth. You will need a minimum of a 2.0mm tip in your spray gun, you can apply a second coats after a couple of hours, but if you want to sabd it down at all you need to leave it for at least a couple of days or it will clog the paper really fast, but after a couple of days it cures really hard and needs to be keyed with 320 grit before applying further coats.

The reason for using red oxide colour as the first epoxy coat is that when sanding down anything later, if you hit the red coat, you know not to sand any further so you will never get to bare metal when prepping for paint, so will always have the zinc and one coat of epoxy as a minimum over bare metal.

On a bare metal part I would still treat with Phos Kleen A before the Zinc as this will treat any micro rust that can sit in the metal.

You will need to take the engine and gearbox out together, you can leave the carbs on if you are taking it out the top, remove the rear engine stabiliser and bracket to make more room, and remove the exhaust too if possible, it makes life easier. You will need to tilt the engine quite a lot to get the gearbox to follow the engine, so an adjustable tilter is good for use with the engine crane.

Glad the skins fit, post a pic of them against the door if you would, where did you get them? I have not seen them cover that far up

Engine removal angle
 

Grant,

"You will need to take the engine and gearbox out together" TilleyJon

Here is a shot of the angle of the tilt that Jon mentioned. We followed the shop manual procedure. We might have briefly got caught on some linkage, but it did come out quickly.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...869e0fbe9b.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4edac6bf50.jpg

I have a few doors available if needed. I live in Chester, UK.

Update when you can Grant, happy New Year and hope you are feeling better.

It was littlelic69 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...elic69-133964/ that has the doors, so PM him.

regards

Jon

I have attempted to send you a private message twice now. Have you seen them? I have five doors in various states as described. I will give a brief description. Door 1 is a right hand rear. I HAVE SCAVENGED METAL FROM IT , SO IS ONLY USEFUL FOR BITS OF PRESSINGS., Door 2 is also right hand rear. It has a good outer skin, but the inner is corroded into holes near the winder mechanism mounting holes. Door 3 is again a right hand rear. It has a good skin and inner panel. It has some corrosion at the drain holes at the bottom. A useable part as is. Door 4 is a left hand rear. It has some corrosion at the rear lower outer skin. The inner is good and could be used. Door 5 is a front left. It has an OK skin and an OK interior and could be used .

Glad your feeling better, had the same issue re work myself, desperate to get back to it as I really don;t have masses to do, hopefully I can get on top of the workload shortly and get back to it and get it finished. I can then start the second one !

When you say the heater rail do you mean the section of metal sheeting that forms the ducting for the heater air into the passenger compartment ? There was a couple breaking on ebay, there is a guy selling bits from 2 Mk2's in March near Cambridge, you could message him and ask what the shells are like ? I can look him up and post a link if you like.

I need to nail down the wiring in the dash before I fit the seats and have no room ! Then put front and rear suspension in and fit engine and gearbox, they are all done ready to fit, just need the time to bolt it all in.

This is the guy that has 2 Mk2's in bit's, https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/william.b...72.m2749.l2654 no idea about the shells, but worth giving him a message to find out, I bought some wheels from him, I think I may have his number, if you want it I will give him a call and ask if he minds me passing it on.

Did the engine rebuild myself, not the machine work, I had a guy down the road from me that does race engines do it for me, he does race XK's for some of his clients so was happy to do it as he normally does Lotus/Ford etc race work. Frank really knows his stuff, and he won't do the work if you want a cheap half a job done ! +20 thous bore out, new pistons, crank polished, balanced, head fitted with new valve seats, valve guides, valves, flywheel lightened, all balanced including clutch, uprated crank oil seal from Rob Beere racing, all new bearings, high flow oil pump, basically a new engine ! It's not a cheap job, and although the engine is pretty straight forward you don't want to be rushed if you want to get it right.

I have another one to do which I am going to port the head, up-rate the engine, fit twin 2" SU's , ported intake tract etc. and looking to get an extra 40 - 50HP out of that one, it will just be a fast road build not full race as I want to keep the torque band down in the rev range and keep a smooth tickover, so I have to be careful not to get carried away and over port the head !!!

The midnight porter. ;)

Grant,
Do you need the bolt in heater plenum, or the welded side for box? I have the bolt in piece here in Ohio.

I think Grant needs the spot welded sections on the passenger compartment side of the firewall that duct the air from left when it enters from the heater to the centre under the instrument panel looking at the pictures Clyde.

Ah, now I see the destruction. Wasn't clear on my phone. I just have the detachable plenum.

Keep up the good work! I'm always impressed at the efforts you folk go to, to save a car from the crushers. Well done.

I was blessed with finding a truly rust free car that had never been to coast. It was a long hard search. My donors are both rustbuckets.

rotissorie
 

Grant,
Did you find a rotisserie to your liking? Mine is a Auto Twiller - 3000# capacity.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9ae7f20fc3.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e86fc5b0b7.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2cebe3ddb2.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f9e3920d13.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8ef21f2088.jpg

Hi Guys,

Hope you are all well.

Does anybody know what size engine hoist I will need to lift the engine and gearbox (together) out of the jag?

Would a 1 tonne be okay?

Thanks

Grant

I would suggesst that you would need a two ton unit as you need a hoist that has a large reach and can pickup the weight of that engine at that reach (i.e. a two hoist may be two tonnes on its shortest reach and half a tone on its longest.

To be honest I have always dropped the engine out the bottom by lowering the engine and box onto a trolley (still int the car) then unbolting it and lifting the car off the engine, I always feed that the car weighs less than the engine box, especially if its been stripped down first.

Hi Grant,

I am seeing a mate this morning that makes a lot of stuff for Sealey and Snap On, I can get stuff a lot cheaper from him, I will see what he has if you like.

A 1 ton crane will lift 500Kg at full reach, the engine weighs approx 500 Kg on it's own, with the gearbox about about 600kg, you need a crane that will take 1000kg at full reach to be safe and an engine stand that will take in excess of 600 Kg otherwise it will flex a lot with a built up engine on it.

I will see what my mate has and let you know.

Jon

Honestly don't buy the smaller one you will regret it as it will bend, I bent one taking the engine out of a 420 once and the hoist was totally scrap afterwards. Spend a little extra and it will be fine, also I would be alittle wary of the cheap e-bay units.

Regarding engine stands, again you need something very strong, I used a cheap ebay one and a piece of wood at front that the crank nose sat on, otherwise it would bend. I would say it was marginal at best.

These are very heavy engines and you ignore that at your peril!

Hi Jon/Homer,

Thanks for your advice, the crane I was going to buy was a second hand Clarke one for £130 the guy has used twice and purchased from machine mart. He lives in Salisbury and was going to pick up later tonight.

Jon, it would be great if you could speak to your mate and see what he can offer please/ I'm after an engine stand to.

I was thinking of following ur advice and taking the engine out from the bottom.. Only thing is once the subframe is off and engine out, the car wont be that mobile!!. Would it be better to reconnect the subframe (once engine out) then I can move car?

Thanks for ur advice, much appreciate it.

The one he makes is normally £1000, he will do one for £500, but it is pretty substantial, not like the online stuff, it will lift full weight at full reach all day long, but that is probably too much money ?

You can borrow mine if you want to come and pick it up.

He doesn't do engine stands any longer, they were pretty over engineered with bearings in the head etc. so could not compete with the online stuff unfortunately.

Re making the car mobile, you can make up a dolly for the car with castors so you can move it about, once you finish the bodywork, you can use a full dolly to move the car around, see pic.

The rotisserie attaches to the same point the front bumper brackets attach, and to the rear bumper mounts for the back end.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...845b86304a.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...059ad80623.jpg

Hi Grant,
yes I did make the dolly, it fits to the front and rear suspension mounting points on the chassis rails, I have used it to move the car on a trailer a few times too, so it does work really well, if I made one again I would probably fit slightly larger diameter castors which would allow me to move it easily on rougher ground (the area outside my workshop is not very smooth)

You could make one from wood if you didn't need to move the body far i.e. just around the workshop, it would not be robust enough for much else.

Dropping the front suspension is pretty simple but an engine crane helps as you can lift the car up and simply wheel the front suspension out, but you have to lift it high enough to clear the wheels under the bumper area, you can do it with jacks, but you need to make sure the jacks have enough lift to do it.

The colour is gun metal grey, looks really good with the chrome, but of course I would say that !