Changed the DCCV...Now the driver side is blowing cold while the pass is blowing hot?
I tried searching for like 15mins and assume the answer is on here a dozen times, I just can't search.
Changed the DCCV, with the A/C on anything cold, seems like full heat coming out of the passenger side... What do I do to diagnose the problem? |
Your old dccv shorted out the ac control panel circuit board ground output driver. Take it out and solder it, or send off for repair
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Yep. The CCM / RCCM is almost for sure damaged :(
Searching on solder or even on short might find you previous people with the same problem and the fix. |
I'd guess the RCCM but these are supposedly more resilient than the integrated ones.
You could pull the plug from the DCCV and check the supply voltage is correct. |
Well at least we all agreed. :icon_special:
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Thanks...Ugh, that's what I was afraid of...For the record, on the way to the mechanic it blew ice cold...Do you think the mechanic screwed up during the uninstalling/install? (too late for me but perhaps it'll help other members) Geez, the whole point to changing out the old DCCV to a new one was to prevent it from taking out the CCM...
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The wiring from the ccm to dccv is on the left side panel of the dash. You could, uhm rig it by splicing into the drivers driver wire and run the pass and driver on the same ccm driver
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Try this web site...
Bacardi,
www.jaguarclimatecontrol.com is a good place for info. There is lots of stuff re: DCCV on this forum. I sympathize with you however; it's not always easy to find (no reflection on the forum) When my DCCV went out a few months ago, it did fry the CCM. I sent it off to the Jeff...info on the above web site...and he fixed the problem. The CCM is above the glove compartment; it requires removing the glove compartment, then unfastening two torx screws to remove the module...it's about the size of a VCR tape. Anyway, the above site will give you plenty of info re: checking out the module. Cliff |
I think most of the failed CCMs are actually RCCMs and have been wrongly described, probably either due to carelessness or not realising the 2 kinds exist. Anyone else think so?
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Originally Posted by cliff328
(Post 493144)
Bacardi,
www.jaguarclimatecontrol.com is a good place for info. There is lots of stuff re: DCCV on this forum. I sympathize with you however; it's not always easy to find (no reflection on the forum) When my DCCV went out a few months ago, it did fry the CCM. I sent it off to the Jeff...info on the above web site...and he fixed the problem. The CCM is above the glove compartment; it requires removing the glove compartment, then unfastening two torx screws to remove the module...it's about the size of a VCR tape. Anyway, the above site will give you plenty of info re: checking out the module. Cliff Got a quote from Nalley, $1550 before discount for a new RCCM... |
Originally Posted by cliff328
(Post 493144)
Bacardi,
www.jaguarclimatecontrol.com is a good place for info. There is lots of stuff re: DCCV on this forum. I sympathize with you however; it's not always easy to find (no reflection on the forum) When my DCCV went out a few months ago, it did fry the CCM. I sent it off to the Jeff...info on the above web site...and he fixed the problem. The CCM is above the glove compartment; it requires removing the glove compartment, then unfastening two torx screws to remove the module...it's about the size of a VCR tape. Anyway, the above site will give you plenty of info re: checking out the module. Cliff |
Maybe the wiring got damaged when they were changing the valve?
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How did he confirm the ccm is fine? Maybe they did break a wire. Dccv has power in center, and the ccm sends gnd signal to each solenoid to close. Theyre normally open so without the ground signal on 1 side you get heat. I would pin the back of the connector with a dvom to check signal to confirm either wiring or dccv
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Originally Posted by Brutal
(Post 495436)
How did he confirm the ccm is fine? Maybe they did break a wire. Dccv has power in center, and the ccm sends gnd signal to each solenoid to close. Theyre normally open so without the ground signal on 1 side you get heat. I would pin the back of the connector with a dvom to check signal to confirm either wiring or dccv
Brutal, am I able to test the DCCV's voltage without having the RCCM on hand? |
Possible bad new DCCV? It has been reported but seems rare.
. . . |
RCCM turned out to be fine, I'm going to pay for the "beef up" service...I guess since it'll be another week before I get my RCCM back, I'll order a new DCCV and have my mechanic check it out both the wiring and the I have a new DCCV on hand if that's the problem...
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Go to jaguarclimatecontrol.com and read the variuos symtoms carefully. After I replaced the DCCV and the Control Module and still had problems I went to this site and found out my In Cabin Temperature Sensor was dirty. Cleaned it, problem solved. Don
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Originally Posted by bacardi 151
(Post 495532)
quote from jagcc: "the rccm is functioning within parameters during bench testing. It is able to send the proper grounding signal to both driver and passenger outputs to the dccv."
brutal, am i able to test the dccv's voltage without having the rccm on hand? |
Well folks, the fun is over...$749 Lesson learned, do DIY, it's much cheaper...
$90 first new DCCV $220 DCCV install labor w/coolant $129 RCCM shipping and upgrade service (which wasn't needed) $90 second new DCCV $220 DCCV install labor w/coolant Total: $749 to simply replace a DCCV before it goes bad... Problem turned out to be a bad DCCV, I'll try to get my $$$ back but who knows if that will happen... |
Thanks for reporting back. There have been several bad DCCV's right out of the box but it is not common.
I know it no comfort to you but it's still pretty rare. . . . |
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