I tried searching for like 15mins and assume the answer is on here a dozen times, I just can't search.

Changed the DCCV, with the A/C on anything cold, seems like full heat coming out of the passenger side...

What do I do to diagnose the problem?

 

Your old dccv shorted out the ac control panel circuit board ground output driver. Take it out and solder it, or send off for repair

 

Yep. The CCM / RCCM is almost for sure damaged

Searching on
solder

or even on
short

might find you previous people with the same problem and the fix.

 

I'd guess the RCCM but these are supposedly more resilient than the integrated ones.
You could pull the plug from the DCCV and check the supply voltage is correct.

 

Well at least we all agreed.

 

Thanks...Ugh, that's what I was afraid of...For the record, on the way to the mechanic it blew ice cold...Do you think the mechanic screwed up during the uninstalling/install? (too late for me but perhaps it'll help other members) Geez, the whole point to changing out the old DCCV to a new one was to prevent it from taking out the CCM...

 

The wiring from the ccm to dccv is on the left side panel of the dash. You could, uhm rig it by splicing into the drivers driver wire and run the pass and driver on the same ccm driver

 

Bacardi,

www.jaguarclimatecontrol.com is a good place for info. There is
lots of stuff re: DCCV on this forum. I sympathize with you however;
it's not always easy to find (no reflection on the forum)

When my DCCV went out a few months ago, it did fry the CCM.
I sent it off to the Jeff...info on the above web site...and he
fixed the problem. The CCM is above the glove compartment;
it requires removing the glove compartment, then unfastening
two torx screws to remove the module...it's about the size of
a VCR tape. Anyway, the above site will give you plenty of
info re: checking out the module.

Cliff

 

I think most of the failed CCMs are actually RCCMs and have been wrongly described, probably either due to carelessness or not realising the 2 kinds exist. Anyone else think so?

 

Thanks...I that's my plan...However, I'm trying to determine what happened...Driving to the mechanic the car was fine, I authorized the mechanic to swap out the DCCV which was not leaking for a new DCCV for preventative maintenance, it was swapped and now the climate control is messed up...So I got extremely coincidentially unlucky and the RCCM went on it's own at the exact same time I replaced the DCCV?

Got a quote from Nalley, $1550 before discount for a new RCCM...

 

JagCC confirmed my RCCM is fine...So it does appear the DCCV is at fault; does this make sense to folks, that either a faulty DCCV or faulty install would cause one side to blow heat?

 

Maybe the wiring got damaged when they were changing the valve?

 

How did he confirm the ccm is fine? Maybe they did break a wire. Dccv has power in center, and the ccm sends gnd signal to each solenoid to close. Theyre normally open so without the ground signal on 1 side you get heat. I would pin the back of the connector with a dvom to check signal to confirm either wiring or dccv

 

Quote from JagCC: "The RCCM is functioning within parameters during bench testing. It is able to send the proper grounding signal to both driver and passenger outputs to the DCCV."

Brutal, am I able to test the DCCV's voltage without having the RCCM on hand?

 

Possible bad new DCCV? It has been reported but seems rare.
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RCCM turned out to be fine, I'm going to pay for the "beef up" service...I guess since it'll be another week before I get my RCCM back, I'll order a new DCCV and have my mechanic check it out both the wiring and the I have a new DCCV on hand if that's the problem...

 

Go to jaguarclimatecontrol.com and read the variuos symtoms carefully. After I replaced the DCCV and the Control Module and still had problems I went to this site and found out my In Cabin Temperature Sensor was dirty. Cleaned it, problem solved. Don

 

yes, you become the rccm, first go to that quiet place in your mind. Put all the problems in your life aside. Think of the movie tron and electronic. Now that your the rccm you just supply a ground signal to the outside wires of the connector on the dccv. The center is hot with key on and the same circuit as the ac compressor clutch.you can either back probe with small electric probes, or go to the drivers side dash where the facia connectors are. I just down know the wire colors to tell you with out a car or the wring diag. Provide a ground at the solenoids should close. Theyre normally open without power/grounds

 

Well folks, the fun is over...$749 Lesson learned, do DIY, it's much cheaper...

$90 first new DCCV
$220 DCCV install labor w/coolant
$129 RCCM shipping and upgrade service (which wasn't needed)
$90 second new DCCV
$220 DCCV install labor w/coolant

Total: $749 to simply replace a DCCV before it goes bad...

Problem turned out to be a bad DCCV, I'll try to get my $$$ back but who knows if that will happen...

 

Thanks for reporting back. There have been several bad DCCV's right out of the box but it is not common.
I know it no comfort to you but it's still pretty rare.
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