I doubt if there are weep holes in that door jamb. With properly-fitting rubber seals, they aren't needed and they would be just another area prone to rust over the years....

 

All we noticed was the water in the footwell.....about 2 cups or more.

It seems to me that you could remove the metal sill plate of the driver's door and see if my problem is your problem. Maybe the channel through the sill isn't visible but certainly this probably would be the easiest thing to check.

Another symptom was that the driver's seatbelt was damp when it was pulled far out.

Eric

 

I don't have that much, but it is more than damp. and none of my seat belts are damp.
I went and did my test (yes- i am a little OC about getting things done).

I went to the car ash to use a higher pressure spray. First I checked the bottom of all the doors and wiped down all the door wells. I did note that on the back left door- where I am having the problem -that there was a good amount of water on the bottom of the door- in front of the rubber seals on the bottom painted part of the door toward the cabin. None of the other doors had this problem.

I first isolated my spray on the moonroof for a good 4 minutes. That generated nothing. Then I spray around the door where the window is and around the outside door handle and wetness on the bottom of the door and water (not a huge amount) on the trim panel. I then moved the back seat and removed the trim panel. There was no moisture under the kick panel or on any of the padding that comes down the c-pillar kick panel and is under the seat on that side. The only moisture was underneath the trim panel and there would be a stream that followed the path that brings the water to the footwell.

Bottom line- no drain hose problem.

It is coming from the door. All of my weather seals are tight and all are flush with the door when sht. That seems to leave me 2 areas- either the window has a seal problem or the outside door handle could have a problem.

One of the members mentioned something about the door seals themselves. Please explain to this novice, where I would look for these exactly. Any other thoughts on the door and where the leak could come from on that piece. It closes easy, has the right sound tight shutting sound and has no indication of being out of alignment. the door stricker and latch appear to have no marks on them to indicate alignment problems.

again your help is appreciated.

Tom in Dallas

 

what I have done in the past to test door seals, is use lipstick on the rubber seal and close the door if there isnt an outline of the seal it needs to be replaced.

The lipstick will not hurt the paint or affect the rubber.

 

The lipstick makes good sense and per the previous suggestion, I check with my insurance company and they will cover it under a non accident collision (minus the deductible). So that may be the route. I will try the lipstick, but all the seals seem more than tight and it is coming our of the door in front or toward the cabin- so it looks like something is leaking through the door. it is behind the seal or past the seal toward the cabin and appear to be coming from where the door trim and the metal come together. Other than the glass seal or the outside door handle any other suggestions.

Thanks

Tom

 

Rather than using lipstick a more common test of door seals is to use a dollar bill. Close the door with the bill in-between the door frame. It should be pretty tight and take a good tug to pull out. It will be obvious when you get to a weak spot in the seal. The bill will slide out much easier than before. It’s fast to do and with a small amount of practice you can get a very good feel for what is OK and what is weak.
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Actually there are 2 weep holes on the rear door. They are under the bottom rubber seal on either side. You can feel them if you move the seal slightly.

Tom

 

I am now a little crazy, With 2 weep holes that are not blocked, then I do not understand how water would come in on the interior of the weather seal when all shows tight. I found this rear door adjustment procedure and curious as to comments as to whether this might need to be adjusted. See attached

Tom in Dallas
2005 S- Tpye

 

Don't forget that your leak could indeed be coming from a windshield corner failed seal. It may not be the door....

 

That makes much sense. I washed the car today and checked all 4 doors. Three do the same thing and only one (the leaking one) does something different. I did this without doing anything for a while the moonroof- so that is now ruled out.

If you look at the bottom of the door on any of the doors and if you water them down, you will not see water on the paint below where the inside trim is and you will not see any water on the "jaguar" silver name plate on the bottom of the door well. On 3 they are that way and the leaking one has water in those 2 areas. No evidence of any leaking weather stripping- so it is either on the inside of the door or one of the windows seal and could even me the fixed glass on the rear door.

The latest and I am sure I am not the only one having this problem.

Tom

 

I have a 2005 s-type and it seems like my drain pipe on the left rear is diconnected. I have tons of water every time it rains pour into the rear footwell on the left. I figured out from this thread that this is the problem. I am just a bit stuck i'm trying to figure out how to take off the c pillar trim pannel so I can reconnect the pipe. There is a PDF in this thread but I cant make out the instructions. Does anyone have clearer instructions or pics on how to remove the pannel and connect the pipe?

 

I thought it might have been the drain pipe and it was NOT. It was the seal in the back left door. I would take a hose and spread some water around the door and see what happens. Open the door and see if there is any water after spraying it down well on the inside of rubber that is about the back left floorboard and then look and see if there is any water dripping from directly between the door trim and the metal. If so , you have a problem with that gray soundproofing and water seal in the door. That was my problem. If you actually do have roof drain problems, I have a clear diagram to get to get the C-pillar off, although I don't think you will actually have to.

let me know.

Tom in Dallas

 

What I actually did was fold down the back seats and removed the small piece of the back seat that is between the fold down seat and the door. Thats where the seat belt is rolled up. I put the car on a slant and poured water down the sunroof and water came pouring out from right above the c pannel. I am guessing it must be the pipe is diconnected or something. I saw the PDF you posted earlier in the thread i tried following it but couldnt make out. I took off the weatherband and tried removing the C-pillar trim panel, but I couldnt get it off. I dont want to break or crack anything so im not pulling too hard.

 

Thanks for the reply.
What I actually did was fold down the back seats and removed the small piece of the back seat that is between the fold down seat and the door. Thats where the seat belt is rolled up. I put the car on a slant and poured water down the sunroof and water came pouring out from right above the c pannel. I am guessing it must be the pipe is diconnected or something. I saw the PDF you posted earlier in the thread i tried following it but couldnt make out. I took off the weatherband and tried removing the C-pillar trim panel, but I couldnt get it off. I dont want to break or crack anything so im not pulling too hard.

 

See if this will make better sense.

Tom

 

Thanks for the files.
Im still not quite sure how to take off the panel, as I said I tried today, I took off the weatherstrip and pulled the trim panel out. Only one part unclicked, it was still connected there with a piece of fabric. Is that the retaining strap I have to cut?
Also do I just pry off the rest of the trim panel? It seems like if I tug I'll brake somethying?
Can you clarify?
Also, where can I get a new strap?

Jacob In NY

 

You can get the strap at the dealership and one of the few things that is not 40 times normal cost. Go on and cut the strap., It is only there in the event of air bag deployment to keep the trim piece from flying around. Not sure if that is relevant there or or not with you. There should be little clips that fit into the openings and they might break when you remove them or they might be able to be slightly compressed after you cut the strap and get some more movement on the piece or you can get more movement and work them out one at a time using a flat edge screwdriver. They may also and I never did remove the C Pillar, although I have removed the A pillars (probably about the same) and they operated on the same principle as door trim snap in holders- some will come out clean,others might break, but that should give you the drift. I do not think you will actually crack the c pillar trim panel unless it just happens to have been overly dried out from weather or other conditions.

Tom in Dallas

 

Thanks for the files.
Im still not quite sure how to take off the panel, as I said I tried today, I took off the weatherstrip and pulled the trim panel out. Only one part unclicked, it was still connected there with a piece of fabric. Is that the retaining strap I have to cut?
Also do I just pry off the rest of the trim panel? It seems like if I tug I'll brake somethying?
Can you clarify?
Also, where can I get a new strap?

Jacob In NY

 

Hi Tom, Thanks a lot for the info and your time, i'll have a look tomorrow morning when theres some day light and see if I can get it done. I'll keep you posted and let you know how it goes.

 

I don't think you should have a problem. Just don't put pressure at strange angles on. Small steps and work or snap out one at a time.

Tom