Last time I will post to this thread. YOU NEED A BRAND NEW BATTERY!!!!!

 

As I was signing the ownership paperwork I was busy removing the airbox flap haha

 

He speaks the truth. These cars are very sensitive to voltage and current as has already been stated. You will continue to chase problems until you do so. A new battery will eliminate one MAJOR problem. Then you can work on the others.

 

Thanks, you may of course be right, but someone else has posted in this forum and did some of the things I did, removing fuses then not able to start the car. He thought it was a security immobilser too, but he put F27 in wrong place. I am checking my relays, but none of them click as I had expected.

I used a 9v square battery and then wired 12v, nothing ???

 

I believe this will only prove the car will still not crank.

I took my battery out over an hour ago after charging for 24 hours and have power to everything, even the ODBII which says 12.4 volts. The aircon, interior lights came on and even main beam but did not before. I tried cranking before this and no Starter motor. When my battery had less power than it has now it tried to turn the starter motor.

Please don't get bogged down with the battery and consider an alternative. Can this car stop you from cranking the engine using the same key it always uses?

 

I'm surprised nobody mentioned this, but you may need a new battery.

 

Within the hour we will see, the local garage in bringing one up at a small 375.00 euros fitted. I hope it really is my battery and you are all right.

 

..I'm sorry Tania, but this seriously cracked me up when you quoted that ,

In my humble opinion I too agree that a "NEW" battery will sort most of your problems.

good luck!

 

Monsieur Martan from Citroen will be here is 15 mins, he has my BRAND NEW battery. If it works fantastic great

 

I'm praying the new battery works, but how much are relays in case it does not.

xr83-148192-BA
XR83-148192-AA

 

You have to put the relay next to your ear to hear the tiny click noise.

If anyone else wants to test their relays, you can use a 9v battery, neg on 85 and positive on 86.

I can hear a tiny sound on most of them 12 relays, but on 6 it sounds like a twang rather than a click.

No idea what this means and I have no ammeter to test the resistance.

Going out to watch my battery being fitted.

 

A little upset over the new battery not working. has anyone got anymore ideas. This is the right battery and it is brand new, my old battery starts the small recovery truck they have?

I have told the garage I will contact them again when I know more. There is no starter crank, only a click and thats it.

Any ideas, that don't involve me buying another new battery are most welcome.

 

Ok now that you have a new battery, as I stated earlier you have got to go through all the relays and fuses again. The arc'd jumper cables fried 1 or more of them! <---that is where your REAL problem started. Because of the simple fact, that if you had replaced battery BEFORE jumping, you would not have this problem now.

 

At this point I think your initial issues were a bad battery, and still think they are even if the "old" one jumped the truck. I hope you kept the new one.

Now, I'm no automotive electrician, but do know that a surge from an improper jump can wreck havoc with ANY PREMIUM car's computerized modules. When this happens, the best thing to do is get it do a shop that has the proper manufacturer specific diagnostic equipment. I am keeping my response as generic as possible since the problem you are having is not because it is a Jaguar, but more because someone goofed real bad giving you a jump. The same would happen to a Mercedes, BMW, Audi, and yes even a Citroen.

I realy think that you may spend many hours checking relays and such and still not get it started. Sorry to be so negative but in this case you are only brushing the surface. It is totally possible that some of the modules have been fried.. Maybe not, but a real distinct possibility. There is no easy way to test those without patching the car into the IDS system and having them run through the modules to make sure they are working..

 

Thanks but Relays all click. I do not have a meter to measure resistance.

The only difference is that some click softly and others more loudly with a twang sound. There are 6 of the twanging ones, possibly used more often.

I will leave these relays out for now so i can swap and test the important ones.

Engine
R17 left hand windscreen heater
R18 headlamp Washer
R21 right hand heat windscreen
Luggage
R1 heated window

and re-check all the fuses are OK in the morning and reseat them.

 

AHMEN Jeff!!! Time for a competent mechanic

 

So many people said it was the battery so I purchased a new battery and now you know it isn't the battery you shrug your shoulders and give up ??

 

1) As stated, your battery went flat (dead)

2) EPD and other fault codes, poor window performance

All signatures of a faulty battery, BATTERY should have been replaced right then.

3) Along comes a good samaritian, ARC's the very sensitive electronics whilest jumping your vehicle.

4) The vehicle starts and runs for a couple of hours after "bad" jump.

5) Vehicle doesn't start after running for a couple of hours, back to battery issue.

6) 350 euro for a "new" battery (glad I don't live in France)

7) If the vehicle ran after the ARC'd jump, then in my mind the relays and fuses and possibly modules are all in (were) working condition, again pointing to a faulty battery. After running the vehicle a couple of hours to recharge the battery. My question to you is what could have happened after the vehicle was shut off and then tried to restart? Is there anyting else you haven't told us or possibly slipped your mind? Not shrugging my shoulders..............

 

After being jump leaded and the ABS and EPD fault being displayed. I left the car running for a couple of hours at 2000 rpm to charge battery, I hand locked the car with the other key. I then came back out and turned of started again to see if J gate came out of park and EPB came off. No luck. Locked car Googled potential issues and saw someone mention to check all fuses. I went back out started car to double check it was still at fault and it was.

I turned off car but left the key in ignition. Took out fuse F1 in the Trunk and the beeping car alarm went off and I had to put the key in the ignition to stop it. I unhooked the negative terminal on the battery to stop it happening again, key still in ignition but turned off. Went through every fuse and swapped relays from front to back. After 3 hours of doors open I tried to crank the car, nothing at all no crank.

I have tested the relays, seem ok they click anyway can not test resistance. Is it possible that the Cave is lost as someone else has said ???

 

SORRY THAT SHOULD BE CADE.

PS the radio says PLEASE WAIT ?