S type problematic.
Is anyone else's S type a big POS that never seems to be fixed? Fix one thing and immediately something else goes wrong. I worked on it for a couple days. Fixed some lights, replaced both left window regulators, replaced the light switch in the trunk, now...no start. Cranks and cranks and nothing. not even trying. Tried flood mode(throttle to floor) not even sure it has it, still nothing. I don't have any diagnostic tools other than DVOM and a code reader (basic). BTW...it ran fine (or at least okay) a few days ago. I'm at my wits end with this car. I can't even take it somewhere and leave the key in it...it wont bloody start for someone to steal it. Sorry for the rant...just needed to vent a bit. Any ideas??
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I feel you my friend. I guess the first thing would be a scanner where you can read triggers and fuel rail pressure and the like. Check out the icarsoft stuff. I have the i930 and love it. Keeps my snapon solus in the case pretty much and they are under 200 dollars and model specific so it accesses all modules. Best of luck
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Originally Posted by scottjh9
(Post 1968575)
I feel you my friend. I guess the first thing would be a scanner where you can read triggers and fuel rail pressure and the like. Check out the icarsoft stuff. I have the i930 and love it. Keeps my snapon solus in the case pretty much and they are under 200 dollars and model specific so it accesses all modules. Best of luck
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Originally Posted by king of the world
(Post 1968568)
Is anyone else's S type a big POS that never seems to be fixed?
What is your typical driving pattern? I have a 52 mile round trip to work, almost all freeway. Short stop/go trips, by contrast, are much tougher on a vehicle.
Originally Posted by king of the world
(Post 1968568)
now...no start. Cranks and cranks and nothing. not even trying.
What is the PATS light doing? That's the indicator for the security system, a red light at the base of the windshield. I forget the exact details, but the light should flash in a certain sequence before start to say all is good. If the security system is tripped, under some circumstances, it will let the engine crank and crank but not actually start. If tripped, the light will flash a different sequence to tell you specific security issues. |
Maybe the fuel cutoff being tripped or malfuction
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Originally Posted by kr98664
(Post 1968579)
Au contraire! My '02 has been phenomenally reliable. It's my daily driver, just coming up on 300k miles. Only left me stranded once in ten years, when the water pump bearing failed. Even then, she was kind enough to break down in my driveway.
What is your typical driving pattern? I have a 52 mile round trip to work, almost all freeway. Short stop/go trips, by contrast, are much tougher on a vehicle. . What is the PATS light doing? That's the indicator for the security system, a red light at the base of the windshield. I forget the exact details, but the light should flash in a certain sequence before start to say all is good. If the security system is tripped, under some circumstances, it will let the engine crank and crank but not actually start. If tripped, the light will flash a different sequence to tell you specific security issues. |
I have a pdf manual also. About 5000 pages i believe. If you have the same one it is very thourough. There will be more members seeing this thread so a lot more good advice will be coming.
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Originally Posted by king of the world
(Post 1968568)
Is anyone else's S type a big POS that never seems to be fixed?
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Originally Posted by JagV8
(Post 1968605)
No, but I may have a very different car - you failed to give your car details!
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Originally Posted by king of the world
(Post 1968684)
oh sorry. 2000 S Type 3.0L
The Duratec engine is quite robust, but it needs basic maintenance to be reliable. |
A 2000 luxury car can be a bargain or money pit. More likely a money pit unless you're expecting to do plenty of fixing etc and can DIY.
There's a "no start" guide if you look, probably in the Stickies. The good news is these cars are not inherently problematic or at 18 yrs old not more than other luxury cars. |
Originally Posted by NBCat
(Post 1968733)
Let's begin with the basics:
The Duratec engine is quite robust, but it needs basic maintenance to be reliable. Thank you for the information. I gives me places to look. I have a scanner coming soon so that should help. |
Originally Posted by king of the world
(Post 1968684)
oh sorry. 2000 S Type 3.0L
I once changed the front ball joint, took it for a spin and had an ABS fault, I spent ages checking what I had done before eventually discovering one of the rear sensors had failed. I changed the drivers door locking mechanism and the clutch went the next day. I bought a 2002 face lift S-Type R and ran that from 2007-2010 and did a lot more miles and had very little trouble with it. |
I do not know much about the 3.0l but can you here the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to the run position. If you have a schrader valve in the fuel line you can turn the key to run for a few seconds then off and dpress the needle on the valve easy and see if any fuel comes out. Otherwise read up on the scanner you bought and when you get it you will be more than ready. What scanner did you end up buying by the way
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Originally Posted by scottjh9
(Post 1968837)
I do not know much about the 3.0l but can you here the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to the run position. If you have a schrader valve in the fuel line you can turn the key to run for a few seconds then off and dpress the needle on the valve easy and see if any fuel comes out. Otherwise read up on the scanner you bought and when you get it you will be more than ready. What scanner did you end up buying by the way
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Originally Posted by Homersimpson
(Post 1968807)
Sadly I suspect this is your problem as its one of the early MK1 versions, I had a 1999 S-Type 3.0 from 2004-2007 and it was the biggest pile of turd ever, every time I looked at something went wrong on it.
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On the homepage of this forum there is a sticky for owners manuals. See if yours is there and if so it will have fuse/relay locations and that will give you a start for fuel pump circiuts to check. I just hooked in my i930 and when i turn the key on it reads the rail pressure. Look in your pdf manual that you have under the powertrain heading and will find a troubleshooter for crank but no start and it will walk you thru checks. Most of it is using a dvom which you have. I know your pain chasing gremlins. Also search the forum for the jtis download if you have not done so. I do not know the link. Sorry
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Originally Posted by king of the world
(Post 1968845)
I bought the scanner you recommended. $153 CAD on eBay. reviews were all real good. Not sure on the fuel pump. There is a faint high pitch whine KOEO from under the hood but it doesn't sound like a fuel pump and there is no pressure at the Schrader valve.
My dad had a Ford Sierra back in the 90's and it had the inertia switch in the centre of the spare wheel. I put the spare wheel in a bit hard after having it out to check the tyre pressure and it knocked it off. Took a while to figure that one out but I was only about 14! |
Just re read your original post. You worked on the drivers side windows so maybe the inertia switch got accidently tripped or a wire pulled loose. On my 06 s type the switch is on the driver side footwell. Look there against the panel. There is a cutout for it. Worth a shot. The switch should be covered in the owner and service manual
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Originally Posted by scottjh9
(Post 1968888)
Just re read your original post. You worked on the drivers side windows so maybe the inertia switch got accidently tripped or a wire pulled loose. On my 06 s type the switch is on the driver side footwell. Look there against the panel. There is a cutout for it. Worth a shot. The switch should be covered in the owner and service manual
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Originally Posted by king of the world
(Post 1968895)
Okay thanks. I'll look. If its tripped, how do I reset it?
press the rubber button on top put ignition switch in position 2. Run. Pause a fw seconds. Back to off then try to start. The switch might say reset below the hole on the trim pane |
I just googled" jaguar s type inertia switch reset" and there are a couple videos and other fuel troubleshooters. Check it out
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Originally Posted by scottjh9
(Post 1968900)
I just googled" jaguar s type inertia switch reset" and there are a couple videos and other fuel troubleshooters. Check it out
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Did you work on the headlights
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Originally Posted by scottjh9
(Post 1968939)
Did you work on the headlights
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Ok this was way out there but there is a crash sensor under the lip by the radiator and the wiring runs next to the passenger headlight...you did not disturb that. I found out it was there when i replaced my rad...did you look in the pdf manual for crank but no start
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Although there can be number of reasons for cranking no start. On mine it was the fuel pump. The symptoms were that it would occassionally not want to start. I replaced the fuel filter but this did not fix it. After replacing the fuel pump I have had no problem starting. The suggestion above to check the pressure at the shraeder valve will give you the answer. The pressure from memory is around 45psi. Hopefully someone will post exact pressure. But I just replaced the fuel pump.
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ca041ec4b2.jpg
X200 fuel pressure specifications listed above. |
Thank you all for the great and helpful advice. However none of it was any use. Let me explain. I'm an IDIOT. Any good mechanic or DIYer knows to check 3 things on a no start...Air, Fuel, and Spark. I had air, I hadn't gotten to spark testing and I thought I had fuel. Nope I had a running fuel pump but no pressure at the rail...you'll never guess why...no fuel in the tank...Doh!!! shoulda otta checked that first. Oh well lesson re-learned. In my feeble defence … no one suggesting to make sure I actually had fuel. :D Now it runs at least. Please feel free to razz me... I deserve it.
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Look on the bright side. At least you don't have to fix anything..
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Originally Posted by king of the world
(Post 1972805)
Thank you all for the great and helpful advice. However none of it was any use. Let me explain. I'm an IDIOT. Any good mechanic or DIYer knows to check 3 things on a no start...Air, Fuel, and Spark. I had air, I hadn't gotten to spark testing and I thought I had fuel. Nope I had a running fuel pump but no pressure at the rail...you'll never guess why...no fuel in the tank...Doh!!! shoulda otta checked that first. Oh well lesson re-learned. In my feeble defence … no one suggesting to make sure I actually had fuel. :D Now it runs at least. Please feel free to razz me... I deserve it.
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Originally Posted by scottjh9
(Post 1973286)
love those easy fixes. Now you know the car heard you putting it under the bus. Maybe a detail job to make things square. I would have asked about gas but i guess too simple for my overthinking mind. You know step over a dollar to pick up a dime
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