Is anyone else's S type a big POS that never seems to be fixed? Fix one thing and immediately something else goes wrong. I worked on it for a couple days. Fixed some lights, replaced both left window regulators, replaced the light switch in the trunk, now...no start. Cranks and cranks and nothing. not even trying. Tried flood mode(throttle to floor) not even sure it has it, still nothing. I don't have any diagnostic tools other than DVOM and a code reader (basic). BTW...it ran fine (or at least okay) a few days ago. I'm at my wits end with this car. I can't even take it somewhere and leave the key in it...it wont bloody start for someone to steal it. Sorry for the rant...just needed to vent a bit. Any ideas??

 

I feel you my friend. I guess the first thing would be a scanner where you can read triggers and fuel rail pressure and the like. Check out the icarsoft stuff. I have the i930 and love it. Keeps my snapon solus in the case pretty much and they are under 200 dollars and model specific so it accesses all modules. Best of luck

 

I will certainly check out that scanner. Thank you for your help.

 

Au contraire! My '02 has been phenomenally reliable. It's my daily driver, just coming up on 300k miles. Only left me stranded once in ten years, when the water pump bearing failed. Even then, she was kind enough to break down in my driveway.

What is your typical driving pattern? I have a 52 mile round trip to work, almost all freeway. Short stop/go trips, by contrast, are much tougher on a vehicle.



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What is the PATS light doing? That's the indicator for the security system, a red light at the base of the windshield. I forget the exact details, but the light should flash in a certain sequence before start to say all is good. If the security system is tripped, under some circumstances, it will let the engine crank and crank but not actually start. If tripped, the light will flash a different sequence to tell you specific security issues.

 

Maybe the fuel cutoff being tripped or malfuction

 

300k miles it's forgivable for a minor failure like a water pump. I haven't even gotten to drive mine yet. I bought it a week ago and have been working on it ever since. it has 219000km on it and lots of problems I didn't expect. I never checked the security light. I don't know much about this car. I don't even have a handbook for it (it's ordered) I did buy a pdf service manual...as good as it is. I didn't pay much for it and I'm hesitant to spend much more on it. Okay I just checked. The security light is flashing steady with the car locked and goes off on unlock. Turn on ign key. light comes on steady for a few seconds and goes out.

 

I have a pdf manual also. About 5000 pages i believe. If you have the same one it is very thourough. There will be more members seeing this thread so a lot more good advice will be coming.

 

No, but I may have a very different car - you failed to give your car details!

 

oh sorry. 2000 S Type 3.0L

 

Let's begin with the basics:

1. What is the age and condition of the battery? It should have a minimum of 12.6 volts across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position for ten or more minutes. If not, the battery is suspect and can be the cause of many of the issues on these forums.
2. Is the MIL on? Does the vehicle have any DTCs stored? If so, post them here.
3. Has any work been done to the engine prior to your purchase?
4. What is the fuel pressure at the schraeder valve on the engine?

Spend some time reading through this forum as there are several items on the Duratec V6 that need to be addressed for the vehicle to run properly. These include the IMT o-rings, lower breather hose and cam cover gaskets.
The Duratec engine is quite robust, but it needs basic maintenance to be reliable.

 

A 2000 luxury car can be a bargain or money pit. More likely a money pit unless you're expecting to do plenty of fixing etc and can DIY.

There's a "no start" guide if you look, probably in the Stickies.

The good news is these cars are not inherently problematic or at 18 yrs old not more than other luxury cars.

 

Battery is good, No MIL, just a "catalyst failure" warning on the instrument display, but it's been running with that on. No idea on previous work or maintenance on this vehicle. previous owner intentionally hid the catalyst warning by unplugging the switch that controls the display. No idea on fuel pressure and no fuel pressure gauge to test it. I'm leaning toward a security system issue as nothing has changed since I last ran it 4-5 days ago except new window regulators. I had to cycle the key quite a few times to test their function ( and the ding ding from the key drove me nuts)

Thank you for the information. I gives me places to look. I have a scanner coming soon so that should help.

 

Sadly I suspect this is your problem as its one of the early MK1 versions, I had a 1999 S-Type 3.0 from 2004-2007 and it was the biggest pile of turd ever, every time I looked at something went wrong on it.

I once changed the front ball joint, took it for a spin and had an ABS fault, I spent ages checking what I had done before eventually discovering one of the rear sensors had failed.

I changed the drivers door locking mechanism and the clutch went the next day.

I bought a 2002 face lift S-Type R and ran that from 2007-2010 and did a lot more miles and had very little trouble with it.

 

I do not know much about the 3.0l but can you here the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to the run position. If you have a schrader valve in the fuel line you can turn the key to run for a few seconds then off and dpress the needle on the valve easy and see if any fuel comes out. Otherwise read up on the scanner you bought and when you get it you will be more than ready. What scanner did you end up buying by the way

 

I bought the scanner you recommended. $153 CAD on eBay. reviews were all real good. Not sure on the fuel pump. There is a faint high pitch whine KOEO from under the hood but it doesn't sound like a fuel pump and there is no pressure at the Schrader valve.

 

I'm hearing from almost everyone...this version of the car is junk. Doh!! It's never a good thing when you mix 2 brands of cars to make one. They say the 2004- was good...the bugs had been fixed by then.

 

On the homepage of this forum there is a sticky for owners manuals. See if yours is there and if so it will have fuse/relay locations and that will give you a start for fuel pump circiuts to check. I just hooked in my i930 and when i turn the key on it reads the rail pressure. Look in your pdf manual that you have under the powertrain heading and will find a troubleshooter for crank but no start and it will walk you thru checks. Most of it is using a dvom which you have. I know your pain chasing gremlins. Also search the forum for the jtis download if you have not done so. I do not know the link. Sorry

 

If you have no fuel pressure check to see if there is an inertia switch on the car, there should be but I don't know where. If this has been tripped then the pump will be off.

My dad had a Ford Sierra back in the 90's and it had the inertia switch in the centre of the spare wheel. I put the spare wheel in a bit hard after having it out to check the tyre pressure and it knocked it off. Took a while to figure that one out but I was only about 14!

 

Just re read your original post. You worked on the drivers side windows so maybe the inertia switch got accidently tripped or a wire pulled loose. On my 06 s type the switch is on the driver side footwell. Look there against the panel. There is a cutout for it. Worth a shot. The switch should be covered in the owner and service manual

 

Okay thanks. I'll look. If its tripped, how do I reset it?