I'm definitely going to keep that in mind. Thanks!

 

Hi,
I had exactly the same problem, same messages etc. on and off for about 12 months, it got so bad that it eventually went into "Fail safe engine mode", I managed to get the car home and decided to have another look under the hood. I have attached a picture of the two fuse boxes at the front of the car, you will notice a short 6" or so cable connects the two, this supplies 12v to the fuses and relays. On mine there was a poor connection to the bigger of the fuse boxes, 1st. of all disconnect the battery, (make sure you have the radio code first :-)) I now made sure both ends of the cable were clean and bright and refitted it, I have since done over 150 miles without any warnings. I am positive this cable was the culprit, it will only take you a few minutes to check it. Hope this helps.

 

thanks

 

If you haven't cleaned the wheel sensors yet I would clean all 4 of them, it's not hard to do. It coming on when you are parking makes it sound a little like one of the cables going to the sensor. If you have somebody that is able to read the ABS codes for you they can easily tell you which wheel is the problem. If you get the code and it points to one of the wheels and you have already cleaned the sensors than check for a bad cable going to that wheel.

If your battery is real old and anywhere close to needing replacement...replace it.

If you are still having problems you likely have the famous ABS module cold solder joint problem.

 

Another possible area of failuire if, in addition to the ABS & Fail safe lamp, you also have cruise control fail, is to check operation of the microswitch associated with shutting off cruise that is on the back of the brake pedal.

When it goes bad, you will lose cruise but also get the ABS fail & Fail Safe Engine Mode will illuminate.

As I recall, it does not set codes when it goes.

 

I have abs traction control and stability control light / message on constantly
Car has sat up for a year with no warning lights when parked up
Put good battery in it
Measures 12.5 volts drops to 10.6 under load and 13.8 while running . I cleaned and checked all 4 wheel sensors values were 1.083 1.1 on front two and 1.057 and 1.064 on rear ones
I then went to check the abs harness plug for resistance and got 1.035 and 1.055 on front and 1.035 and 1.040 on rear.
The pump plug directly below the abd harness gave reading of 4 ohms.
Just hooked up code reader and got the followinf codes
C1155 Speed Wheel Sensor LF Input Circuit Failure
C1233 Speed Wheel LF Input Signal Missing
C1145 Speed Wheel Sensor RF Input Circuit Failure
C1234 Speed Wheel RF Input Signal Missing

Does this lead to belive that the abs module has gone bad?

 

Well i went ahead and removed and opened up the module

It didnt look bad at all, see pic attached
I resoldered it just in case whilst I had it open

 

I just repaired my own solder points on my ABS. It was an easy job but a bit time consuming. About 2 hours start to finish. The biggest issue was getting the bottom front T30 bolt of the unit itself. Let me know if anyone needs a step by step tutorial. I was able to remove my control module without removing the brake lines. Make sure to use caution when reattaching the upper wiring connector, you do not want to bend any of those pins (had to take it off twice).

 

My wife called me on the way home in her 2001 XJ8 with the Traction ASC not available indication along with the ABS light. (I do know it's getting near the time to do the rear brakes).The battery is about 2 years old, but that does not mean it's not failing, need to check it as well.

The next morning I drove the vehicle and did not have any of these lights. Based on what previous posts suggest, I will look at the speed sensors first and clean them before I do anything else.

My question is this. Is the car safe to drive? I am assuming that with those caution lights illuminated, ABS and traction control are disabled?

With regard to the control module, this is a bit off Jaguar subject matter, but addresses a similar problem in my Chevy S-10 ZR2 truck. I had the ABS/Brake warning light. I removed the brake module, opened it up and found some very small cracks around 4 of the posts coming up through the circuit board. I soldered them and all is well, ABS works as advertised after 10,000 miles. Vibration can cause these cracks. I wonder if checking and repairing the Jag ABS module, like I did with the Chevy, will be as easy. With the Chevy, the top cover came off after cutting through all the sealant with an x-acto knife. That was the hardest part of the job.

 

Go on youtube, there is a step-by-step tutorial. I am a novice mechanic at best and it was easy. I was able to get the module out without disconnecting the brake lines. Best of luck!

 

Thank you EllisDiesel, it does look rather easy and I will try that. Looked at the sensors, may carefully put some WD-40 on those bolts first. Pretty dirty in there with some rust.

 

Same problem with my 2001 Vanden Plas. It was the ABS Module. The power input posts were cracked on the circuit board. One tiny touch with a soldering iron fixed it. The module is a bear to open and you need silicone sealant to put it together again. I had to strip off the outer flange, but the repair covered it and sealed it up nicely. I used dark brown sealant and it looks good as new.

 

Thanks ZTZ, after cleaning the wheel sensors, I may try that.

 

So I'm going to revive this thread, just over a year later!
I am going nuts, now. I've checked resistance at all sensors as per the above "ABS Hard Fault" sheet, cleaned all wheel sensors, re-soldered the board, checked all fuses, checked battery condition/voltage, cleaned battery connections, still getting ASC/TRAC not available..

(2001 VDP)

 

Unplug the lead that connects to the terminals you resoldered, and measure the resistance of the pump motor. Make sure you get a good connection with the meter. If the resistance is above 4 ohms, the motor resistance is too high. You will need the entire modulator.

You'll also need to make sure both switches in the brake pedal switch assy are good.

Cheers,

 

Thanks for the reply.
So, open the box again, and test for 4ohms+ on those same connectors?

Is there a procedure for testing the pedal switches or just standard on/off?

Thanks again, much appreciated!

 

No, No, No........

Below the big connector is a smaller two terminal connector. That is the motor connection. Disconnect it and measure between the two terminals. [at the wires, not the module] Look for less than 4 ohms.

 

Ah, got it, thanks.
After reinstalling everything, that connection was actually loose. Properly securing it solved my issue, completely!

 

I had similar messages on my 2001 4.0l. I changed the battery earth (ground) strap and the engine earth strap. The battery earth strap pulled apart quite easily, probably because of 2 dis-similar metals between the braided strap and the cleats. The engine earth strap was in a bad way because it is under neath the engine and exposed to all weather conditions. I also changed the battery a few months later. Its going fine now.

 

I also have a similar issue on a 2001 vanden plas.
I have an autel maxi code reader that allows me to seek & test various sensors including abs, tranny, airbags etc.
i am baffled to say the least! as my trac not avail. & abs light is on. i have cleaned & checked each wheel sensors, when I performed a drive test with obd hooked up it recorded at all 4 wheels.
When I did a K/O test on system it registers a no fault issue. now, this is where i'm puzzled! After my road test I had put the car on my hoist with all 4's off the ground & was planning on cleaning the rings with a dremel to assure contacts were not the issue.Abs light & no trac message vanished??
W.T.H. i'm thinking!! here's the cliché ! when the lights were on in dash i could not erase codes because they are not logged in car's computer. yet i have warning indicator telling me different. up in the air the lights all go off ,everything is back to normal until i set the car down on the ground ?? abs & no trac avail. comes back !! argh..
Something, somewhere, is giving us all a major head scratch to solve this annoying intermittent problem. I have the weekend ahead to indulge in all avenues & will hopefully find the culprit. this has nothing to do with Battery voltage, sensors, abs pump or controller. I'm thinking a little play in one rear wheel that may set the air gap a little too close, enough to set the lights off in the dash.