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@Unhingd. After a couple of that mods you are going to be pushing the limits of the V6S manual tranny. I think you already about 7% over recommended. I'm curious as to how you plan to address the short comings of the 6MT?
@Unhingd. After a couple of that mods you are going to be pushing the limits of the V6S manual tranny. I think you already about 7% over recommended. I'm curious as to how you plan to address the short comings of the 6MT?
6% to be precise. There are a number of factors to consider:
1. Generally, recommended maximums will include a significant safety factor to minimize the probability of failure, particularly during the warranty period.
2.The F-Type includes two devices that protect against shock loading that typically cause tranny failure: a) the dual-mass clutch, and b) the clutch delay valve,
3. I will not be speed-shifting or doing any clutchless-shifting with this ZF like I would with a more substantial tranny like a Doug Nash or a Tremec.
4. If the tranny fails , that's part of the pay-to-play plan. At that point, I'll look at retro-fitting a Tremec, or maintaining an inventory of ZFs.
6% to be precise. There are a number of factors to consider:
1. Generally, recommended maximums will include a significant safety factor to minimize the probability of failure, particularly during the warranty period.
2.The F-Type includes two devices that protect against shock loading that typically cause tranny failure: a) the dual-mass clutch, and b) the clutch delay valve,
3. I will not be speed-shifting or doing any clutchless-shifting with this ZF like I would with a more substantial tranny like a Doug Nash or a Tremec.
4. If the tranny fails , that's part of the pay-to-play plan. At that point, I'll look at retro-fitting a Tremec, or maintaining an inventory of ZFs.
Solid plan IMO; just because a tranny has a certain rating is NO guarantee that you'll have problems just over it. ....only time will tell for sure. There are dozens and dozens of trannys that have proven they can live at double the rated input.
Progress is being made. Stalled out for tomorrow, our head fabricator is off rallying for the weekend. Taking our time with these to figure a couple of things out, get the runner lengths equalized and the firing order right is tricky. And also trying to fake a RHD steering linkage to see if we can make universal fit.
Starting to get there with the V8. The passenger's side primaries are all run & bolted in. That side we were able to both get the firing order correct, as well as completely equalize the runner lengths.
On the driver's side due to the steering column linkage, it is just too tight to equalize the runners. It's not even close to possible. This is a very tight engine bay. However, the firing order is correct which is great.
You can see from the profile of the runners, how closely they are nested together just how tight a space we are working with. I'm fortunate to have some very talented guys working for us.
V6 will be far, far easier. Hoping to have the car on the dyno this week.
Stuart,
Could you please post a picture showing the inside of the collectors? How long will the tapered transition be from the collector to the exhaust pipe? These are both key areas for evaluating the potential effectiveness of the headers.
Also, on the driver's side, will elimination of the rear tube from the V8 setup allow you to get the tube lengths relatively close on the V6? What alloy of stainless are you using?
Stuart,
Could you please post a picture showing the inside of the collectors? How long will the tapered transition be from the collector to the exhaust pipe? These are both key areas for evaluating the potential effectiveness of the headers.
Also, on the driver's side, will elimination of the rear tube from the V8 setup allow you to get the tube lengths relatively close on the V6? What alloy of stainless are you using?
I just arrived this morning. Saul was here late last night working on these (sometimes he does that when he is in the groove.) looks like they are too far along to show you the inside of these particular collectors unless we start cutting stuff off of them.
But what is it that you are wanting to know Lance? Our collectors are all fully welded internally, and centrally pointed. You can see from the outside that these are proper merge collectors. They are not just a formed piece with 4 pipes dumped in and a diamond welded into the center. I might have a couple of reject collectors from V8 Vantage headers kicking around of which I can show you a picture.
I'm not sure what you're asking regarding distance from collector to exhaust pipe... do you mean where does the header section end and downpipe section begin? Or do you mean distance to the tailpipe?
If you mean the downpipe start, that is moved as far downstream as it is physically possible to do so. There are clearance issues and we need to also allow room for a catalyst for those who desire one. Furthermore, the movement of O2 sensor locations more than a relatively small amount from their original distance from the cylinder head will result in difficult tuning issues regarding the latency of the sensors. For example if you move them 2-3 feet downstream you're going to have to change the HEGO circuit on-time, as well as the expected response rate for all the sensors. Not impossible but not ideal either.
So in practise, packaging constraints usually dictate a few fixed locations and you're going to build around these. Since a tight engine bay like this one usually precludes perfectly equal length primaries we'll usually prioritize firing order first, determine our collector location and then work from there.
Yes, I think the additional room on the V6 will allow the rear most primary to be more equalized to the front 2. These parts are all built (as are all our parts as standard) from 304 grade 16 gauge stainless tubing, Tig welded and purged.
Stuart, you answered that question to my satisfaction...no need for a picture. That's what I was looking for. As to distance, I am curious over what distance you are able to taper down from the outline of the 4 (or in my case 3) tubes to the diameter of the downpipe. I've seen some collectors with a 45 degree taper angle that will rob as much power as the manufacturer claims they will gain.
Stuart, you answered that question to my satisfaction...no need for a picture. That's what I was looking for. As to distance, I am curious over what distance you are able to taper down from the outline of the 4 (or in my case 3) tubes to the diameter of the downpipe. I've seen some collectors with a 45 degree taper angle that will rob as much power as the manufacturer claims they will gain.
