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I am probably one of the strongest proponents of personal choice you'll ever meet.
Everyone here knows Nix is powered by Chevy 350. I've always been up front about the fact that if she still had the XK engine she would never have come under this roof because where I grew up a straight 6 is a tractor engine (V6 is a completely different matter) and not suited for the wide open spaces where like to I drive. However, that's MY personal preference and I don't try to impose it on anyone else nor do I criticize those whose preferences differ.
If someone asks why, which some have, I give them 4 reasons:
1 blown head gaskets between 5 and 6 are not unusual
2 cracked block between cylinders requiring sleeving are common
3 head bolts through the water jacket
4 plastic timing chain tensioners
Most Mercan mechanics are not willing to put up with these things, me included, but for those who love the engine in spite of these features (or maybe because of them), I say more power to them.
(';')
As I said initially, my comments are going to **** off a lot of people. But its
interesting to note everyone's opinion and for some - attacking the messenger is good sport. Personally I simply do not have time for the car at this point in my life. Its there, its running but I have come to a place where its not that important to me anymore ,..mostly for the reasons I have stated. If you love your Jag and I am sure you all do... great.
I have gotten to the point where its a "been there, done that" and would not want to do it again. I have 3 businesses and do not have the spare time for it.
For those who are OK with the downside great. I can not fault you for that. It is,.. what it is..I have for the most part have moved on,.. now more interested in Mercedes SL 500 and as George Harrison once said "all things must pass" and so it goes.. No more drama
When the messenger is knowingly and willingly saying things that serve no purpose but stir the pot (and even outright admits as much), it's appropriate to push back and call him out....which you, playing the victim, characterize as "attack".
+1 . . . As stated earlier , ALL opinions respected . . . and especially those we may disagree with.
This has nothing to do with what engine is under the bonnet / hood, but goes to the need to uphold the friendly, generous and helpful sharing of how to MAINTAIN, FIX, RE-BUILD or RESTORE our chosen Jaguars. Wasn't that the issue that provoked our OP to raise his questions on this forum . . . one dedicated to his Jaguar? IMHO, the only valid response should be . . . "Can I contribute something helpful?" If "yes" then go for it . . . but if "no" then why offer a blast of denigrating all things Jaguar? That said, we applaud [alynmurray]'s decision to move on . . .
Thank you Doug (and the many, many others - too many to list) who make it so worthwhile to keep coming back to JaguarForums. Lose that friendship and sharing . . . and we lose all appeal to our membership!
Removed acorn nut. It is not bottoming out. Smoothed washer and nut on sharpening stone. Did not have any sealant. Still leaking. Will get sealant when shops open
Having felt as sick as a parrot all those years ago when I finally learnt the truth about my engine, I do have much sympathy for Alynmurray. However this led me into an engine rebuild and then most of a car rebuild and, y'know I really wouldn't have missed this for the world.
I suppose it is the sexy shape all Jaguars seem to have !!
I got the engine started tonight after 2 months of mucking around. Coolant squirted out under that head nut when running. It doesn't make sence to me
Actually "Squirted" as though the coolant was under pressure?
If so, that would be expected after the engine was fully warmed up because the system develops pressure when warmed up. If the squirting takes place immediately on start-up, engine cold, it suggests the cooling system is being pressurized some other way....like compression being pumped into the system.
Did you ever get around to sealing the nuts with sealant, by the way?
Coolant squirted out as soon as it started running. Will get sealant tomorrow and will give it a go. How does it seal usually with a steel washer under the nut. It makes no sence that it can seal the way it's designed
Just as a trouble shooting step, you could pile on a couple of washers and torque down the acorn nut. This will take out any possibility of the acorn nut bottoming out. If coolant still finds it way out then the cooling system is being pressurized.
Will get sealant tomorrow and will give it a go. How does it seal usually with a steel washer under the nut. It makes no sence that it can seal the way it's designed
It's just a matter of all the mating surfaces---the washer, the nut, and the head---being flat, clean, and sufficiently clamped. Weird, but it works....until/unless anything becomes unclean, unflat, or unclamped
When I've done head gaskets on these engines I put a bead of sealer around the stud right at the surface of the block...in an effort to turn a wet stud engine into a dry stud engine. Then, as backup, I seal the studs and washers at the cylinder head
1. A bit out on the wild side. Keep the stud in place as a center. Select a socket that
will accept the stud and bottom on the head. Probably, need a deep socket. Not one of your better ones, it may get scarred a bit. Apply some valve grinding compound
to the irregular surface. Use a drill driver, air rachet or if need be, a "speed handle" aka brace. Spin the socket vigorously with a modicum of down force. The thicker the lip mon the socket the wider surface it will clean. So, I'd select an impact socket.
Aka valve grind technique.
Further caveat, I've never tried it!!!
2. A tamer idea. Your copper sealing washer is too thin or work hardened, or both.
Visit a hardware store for a fresh thicker one. Much better chance of squishing to conform with the irregular surface.
3. Clean and smooth the Acorn nut as well.
4. Await the fire up and use KW or a similar silicate block sealer. Beware, first. Alloys may not react well to some.
GRRR, those little "stumbling blocks" that hold up the works!!!'
That is some leak as I can see the coolant flooding the spark plug well !
I never had any problems in this area but I did use Barrs Leaks as Jaguar recommended. The washers under the dome nuts should be quite thick, I think they are almost 1/8". Of course, it is essential the dome nut is not bottoming on the stud, so this needs checking out. I would not use copper washers as these squash out and could relieve the pressure on the head gasket.
These are generally used on rocker stud mounting bosses on big American push rod engines. You would have to remove the stud to use one of these tools and not sure if they are available with a 7/16 pilot. The one referenced has a 3/8th pilot. You could check around for one with an appropriate pilot.
Made this up to flatten head over the stud. Used contact glue and stuck 180 grit wet or dry on and machined down with battery drill. Worked well. Had to do three studs to stop leaks
Slick. Need a special tool, make one. I like that. An added bit for your tool box. Always great.
Another idea. It seems that the space between the stud and the head casting is considerable. Plumbers use a graphite laden string as a packing for water valve stems.
But, I like Doug's idea of sealing at the source, down deep.
Old tale: Way back when in my desert junk racing effort, a fellow competitor "raced" a roadster powered by an "A" Ford. Way down on power, but well painted!!!! It had a busted head stud. Not unknown to the specie. He packed the hole with something resembling wood. No leaking, it ran and finished. For a time....
When the A expired, not unexpected, the car came back. Better than ever? Hood/bonnet from a "coffin nosed" 37 Cord. Really looked "cool". But, under that impressive bonnet was an air cooled Franklin aircraft engine. Lots of torque, while it lasted. Great noise, exhaust right out the ports. Boiling oil marked it's demise.....
