Just finishing this R off before placing it in the Storage Shed for the owner.

Whilst turning the wheels for access to fit the mudflaps, the inner edge of the RHF tyre is scuffed, oops. LHF is fine to the eye.

Toe out comes to mind, as does camber out of whack, but the camber is not adjustable, another oops Jaguar.

Sooooo, what are the suggestions for toe in on an R with standard R wheels and correct Dunlop spec tyres.

We are RHD for those that dont know, and have cambered roads, of less than average condition.

My usual alignment mob are a tad cagey about doing this for me, so is there a smoke and mirrors method needed?

A quick rumble through the "search" has not answered me yet.

 

about the camber adjustment

Jaguar Workshop Manuals > XJ-12 (X300) V12-6.0L (1995) > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > Page 1269

would say that it is adjustable even if the service manual says differently but seems to be bit hmmm tedious job ? (TSB is for V12 but still)

service manual info for the alignment attached (not exactly what you asked but might help or not)

I have similar situation with my R but it has been lowered by so previous owner ...

 

Grant, I always go with standard alignment which seems pretty good on my 2 X300s. Minimal tramlining with good types
Can't immediately find my last alignment printout, but our wheel guys over here in the Eastern islands of Oz seem to be able to find the specs.

 

I just replaced my outer tie rods and will need an alignment. Does any alignment shop actually use (or have) the mid-laden tools?

I had thought about using four 75 pound sand tubes that are used for traction in the winter time, distributed around the floor of the car.

 

Thanks AL.

I rang the usual culprits today, and all I got was "we dont do camber on them", and when I pressed the issue if they had specs for toe in, "maybe".

My go to guy with the XJS's etc, has given it away, most inconsiderate.

Scotlad,

NAH, never bothered with any of my Jags. Never understood the need, as the cars are rarely driven "mid laden" in my house. Its either me and "the Minister for Everything", or a full pack, so nowhere near mid ever.

I always ensure the fuel tank is near full, and never had issues with any of them until now, and thats not the cars fault, just these big chain $$ hungry shops that are as lazy as they come.

I will find someone next week, summoned to work for the next 3 days.

 

I've usually found between 1/16 -1/8" toe in seems to work well. I aim for 1/16", but if it's slightly more that's ok.

I have the old style bars with lights and a target plus "turntables" under the tires for doing toe, and a digital level for doing camber (and castor). I take my time and I've always been able to get the car driving perfectly straight down the road with my hands off the wheel. Takes some time, I allow half a day and take it slow and easy. It can be quite iterative, as changing the adjustment on one wheel changes the other, so it's an iterative process to home in on the right setting. Can often take 4 or 5 adjustments to each wheel to get it as close to on spec as possible and the same on each side.

It's a zen sort of job, not one that can be rushed. Frequent tea breaks improve my state of mind, and thus the quality of the job.

 

The absolute need to use the tools has been debated many times over the years. I've never bothered with mid-laden tools and have suffered no ill-results that I'm aware of.

The problem is that some shops won't touch a Jag because "we don't have the correct tools". A bit of cajoling will sometimes weaken their resistance; sometimes not.

Cheers
DD