02 xtype 2.5L limp mode, engine misfire, check engine light, transmission fault light
 

hey i just picked up a 2002 jaguar x type 2.5L from a car auction. The car seems to be having a lot of issues when it starts up the engine runs perfectly fine, but once i toss it in gear, it doesn't accelerate properly. it takes it a while to get upuntil 3000 rpm, and when it does it kinda "bogs".

I can drive the car around the block and it will barley get to 35mph then start stutering. once the car is driving, the Check engine light will start flashing, Transmission fault light will come on, Cruise not avalible light will come on as well.

I pulled the codes three times for the car:
first time:
p0171

Erased it then drove it and did it a second time
P1647
P0057

Erased those and drove it around some more and then these came up:

p0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
P1315
P0057
P1647


I can tell someone else had tried working on the car before bringing it to the auction, I can see that two o2 sensors on the firewall side of the engine have recently been replaced and so has the wiring for them. I can also see that the pcv pipe has recently been replaced as well, I double checked it and it has no cracks on it.

I look at the front of the car, and right from the radiator side, I see two plugs, going no where, right underneath the battery, a gray one and a black one if i recall right. From what im researching online, those are for the front o2 sensors? (p1647)



Would installing those sensors fix all the issues?

please let me know! I can make a video if necessary.

Clear the codes, and replace your battery. Don't cheap out, get the right type for the car.

Yes, every issue you're experiencing can be a soft battery!

And if it's not that, address the issues pointed out by P1647 & P0057.

Arsalan: You wrote:

"I look at the front of the car, and right from the radiator side, I see two plugs, going no where, right underneath the battery, a grey one and a black one if i recall right. From what im researching online, those are for the front o2 sensors?"

Yes, the grey and black electrical connectors below and in front of the battery are for the O2 sensors on the Bank 2 catalytic converter, by the radiator. The grey plug is the upstream sensor; black is the downstream sensor. This post and the following have pictures to help locate electrical connectors and sensors.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1084230

I assume both O2 sensors are installed in the catalytic converter, or you would have mentioned the loud exhaust leak thru the open sensor port, yes? And I assume these O2 sensors are missing their wires and/or plugs, or you likely would have already re-connected them to the plugs under the battery, yes? So if you can't connect the old O2 sensors to the plugs under the battery, try installing new O2 sensors and connecting them to the grey and black plugs under the battery. Then clear the codes, start the engine and let us know what codes re-appear.

The order of the codes is important. The first 1 or 2 codes usually point to a real problem, and subsequent codes may be just "noise" that stops after the original problem is fixed.

Your blinking check engine light is a warning not to run the engine at high RPMs, under heavy load or for extended periods until the problem is fixed. Doing so could damage the catalytic converts, an expensive and labor intensive repair.

Let us know how you're progressing.

Thank you so much for the replies!


Wa3Ra Im sure the battery is fine, I had it tested out at advance auto and it holds a charge fine. I am not sure on if it is the correct one? I just know it holds the charge fine, and seems to power everything up.

THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH dwclapP FOR THOSE PICTURES!!! I do hear a sort of sucking noise coming from the front end of the car so I am assuming it is those sensors, and I didn't see any plugs, so im guessing that is where the noise is coming from. I'll remove the front end parts of and try to get a better look at the location of the plugs, to see if they are just missing.

I understand that an o2 sensor can cause a few things to go bad, as in the check engine light codes for the missfire and hte o2 and the catlytic convertor.... but this still leaves the whole transmission fault and cruise not avaliable issue.


From my reseearch, those lights can come from many different things, could the o2 sensors be one of them?

I get paid this friday and am going to go to the junkyard over the weekend if the car is missing the plugs, to see if i can take some off of another car. If I can't find any in the junkyard, any price estimate on them?


Thanks in advance!

Badly running engine upsets trans and disables cruise. Fix engine fully. Make sure long term fuel trims end near zero.

Hey i just jacked the car up and saw that sensors were un plugged!

WAHOO! No need to spend money on them haha, So i plugged them back up and drove it around the block to see if it acted any different and it did not.

I'll have my budy come with his CEL tester and we'll delete the codes and then drive it see if it fixes the issue or if the light comes back on.

Well i couldnt wait for my buddy to come home, so I went to advance and rented a tester, it wasn't as fancy as my neighbors, but got the job done. Brought it home and deleted the codes. Then drove the car around the block and was having the same problems all over again.

Once the light came back on, these were the codes I got:
p0300--Random misfire
p0301-- Misfire on cylinder #1
P0303-- Misfire on cylinder #3
p0305-- Misfire on cylinder #5
p1313-- catlyst damage
p1000-- This seems to be a issue whenever you delete the codes, from what i read online

I also started the car up and got some data, just because I saw other people posting this stuff up haha:

St Frm1 % -.8
St Frm2 % -.7
Lt Frm1 % .8 ( goes to zero when i reved the engine)
Lt Frm2 % 1.6 Goes to zero when i rev it up

Fuel rail PSI 55 psi

While looking around I can see that the pvc pipe that everyone complains about has been changed, the brake booster line has been changed as well.


What should I do next?

Arsalan: You're making good progress.

Cylinders 1, 3 & 5 are the firewall side. #5 is on the US driver's side, near the brake master cylinder; #1 on the US passenger side, near the serpentine belt.

This post and the one that follows have pictures with the cylinders numbered:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1070336

For coils 1, 3 & 5 to misfire at the same time suggests one of two problems:

1) Engine oil may have leaked into the common spark plug well, causing all 3 coils to misfire. You'll need to remove the upper intake manifold, remove the 3 coils on Bank 1 (the firewall side) and peer into the spark plugs wells. If you see engine oil by all 3 spark plugs, this is likely the reason cylinders 1, 3 & 5 are misfiring. Remove the valve cover and replace the internal gasket that keeps engine oil out of the spark plug well. Clean residual oil from around the spark plugs, and clean the coil boots with a little isopropyl alcohol. Inspect the coil boots, and consider replacing them if they look damaged from the oil or arcing.

2) Coils 1, 3 & 5 on Bank 1 have a common ground wire. (Same for Coils 2, 4 & 6 on Bank 2, the radiator-side). Trace the black wire from the coils on cylinders 1, 3 & 5 to where it's grounded. Disconnect the ground, clean the surfaces - both sides - and reconnect the ground.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Thank you again for all the information guys, this is one of the fastest responding communities ever haha

I went to pick n pull today after reading the post, so i can practice removing the intake manifold. That way I can see how its done and will know exactly where all the bolts are. When i got there alot of the bolts were already removed, and the few i had to do, i somehow managed to remove them all but two, they would spin "freely" but never come out, I could wiggle the manifold and then put some leverage on it to try to make the bolts come out while unscrewing them, but that didn't work.

This kind of has me worried about removing mine.

One other thing I noticed was the brake booster hose on the car out at the junkyard. That hose was really difficult to come out, and on mine, even though it looks new, I just pull on it a bit, and pops right out. I started the car up, and then removed the hose and the car immediately died.

I attached a link of the picture of my hose, even though it does sit in the hole, it seems like it might not sit right? All i literally have to do, is just pull up on it and comes right out with my hands.

could this be causing an issue? and could this be causing the misfire and the engine running horribly?

Arsalan: The 6 bolts holding the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold screw into brass inserts in the lower manifold. Sometimes the brass inserts break free and spin when the bolt turns. To avoid this on your X-Type, remove the bolts when the engine is cold, not hot. Also when you re-install the manifold, put a dab of anti-seize compound on the bolt threads and don't overtighten them. These threads have more info:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-back-125798/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1220218

The loose brake vacuum line may be causing a lean condition and misfiring in cylinders 1, 3 & 5. To confirm, try running the engine after removing the loose line and temporarily plugging the hole in the manifold, or swap your loose vacuum line with the tight fitting line from the other X-Type.

That brake booster hose should be tight when you pull up on it. To loosen the hose you press down in the black plastic on the intake a little with something like a screwdriver and the hose should pop right out. If yours can be pulled out easily just by tugging on it something isn't right. You mentioned that the hose looed new. Maybe whoever had it before just yanked on the old hole and broke the connector. That could be contributing to your situation, but isn't the main cause. I think DW is spot on with the oil in the plug areas.

Sorry for the delay, got busy work

I removed the intake manifold and noticed that a few of the "rear" bolts on the manifold were missing, assuming that someone already done this job before. When i pulled of the top of the manifold I can see oil in the rear side of the manifold (as seen in the pictures).

When i pulled the coil's they seemed to be dry, and the area around them seemed dry as well. When I removed the plugs on the rear side, I can see they have been recently replaced and that there is oil on them (as seen in the pictures).
I am also assuming that since the rear plugs are bosch and the front ones are older ngk's, that they have already been replaced.


I used a blue microfiber towel with a extension attached to it, to clean the inside of the spark-plug wells.

Looks like you found your issue. New gaskets and bolt it down properly and you might be good to go. Probably good idea to change the all the plugs while your in there.

well i got a little bit inpatient, and decided to check something else. i swapped the plugs and coils from from bank 1 to bank 2. Tomorrow i was going to plug in the scanner to see if the misfire had switched to cylinders 2, 4, and 6.

I saw that all six spark plugs had oil on them and the oil was on the thread of the spark plug. The spark plug wells seemed to be decently dry. so I figured it wasn't the value cover gasket. From my understanding if the spark plus wells have oil in them then the value cover gasket is the issue. But in my case it was only the spark plug tips and the well seemed decently dry... is this right?


Also when i pulled of the top intake manifold on the rear side, there was oil in it, as you can see in the photo... Is there suppose to be oil there?

Arsalan, it is common to find oil in the upper intake area. The PCV valve feeds to the area just behind the throttle body. So, finding oil in that area is ok. Granted, based on looking, you may want to replace the PCV valve as that appears to be getting old and allowing too much oil to get by.

Like others have said, the problem appears to be with the plugs. I would look at the left side of the engine, right behind the headlight assembly. You should see a bolt there with a bunch of lugs attached to it. This is the common ground point for all the coils. If you are having a grounding issue, you can see this sort of issue. Remove the bolt and clean all the lugs so the surfaces are nice and shiny silver. After that, pull the plugs and wipe them down with some isopropyl alcohol. Get rid of all that oil.

Finally, use a little bit of carb cleaner and give that vacuum line that you were questioning a good squirt. if the engine RPM picks up, then you have a vacuum leak there and that is what is causing all your problems.

Thanks for the repllies guys,

Thermo, was i correct about my valvecover gasket theory from my previous post?

I couldn't find any carb cleaner, but found some break cleaner, and started the car up, and sprayed it around any areas which i could think it leaks from, and wasn't able to find the rpms get any higher with the engine on.

I am right about to go check right by the headlight for the ground's. But on my car i think all I have is four wires to it, but ill clean them all and reground them, to see if thats the issue and report back

Thanks for all the help guys!

Arsalan, if your problem moved from 1,3,5 to 2,4, 6 by switching the plugs, then I am placing money that someone cheaped out on a plug job and only replaced the front plugs due the problem with replacing the rear plugs. PUt 6 new plugs into the car and you should be good. Sounding like you have excessive plug gap on the 3 plugs that were originially in the rear of the engine.

I just got done tossing the scanner on there and I am getting the same ones, on the odd number cylinders. Therefore the plugs and the coils were fine.

I also found the location of the grounds, 2 bolts right by the headlight, with two wires going to each of them. Removed and cleaned the surface, then reattached. Still getting the same issue, no change at all.

I have a neighbor come and he says the car doesn't sound like its misfiring, he thinks it is the rear catalytic converter that is clogged up and needs to be replaced and is smelling excess fuel from the engine bay , I have no idea how to check his claim? I crawled underneath it and it seems pretty tough to get that convertor out of there, is there a diy on it?

And since the issue didn't transfer over with the different sides, should I try swapping the gaskets from side to side, the valve cover gaskets? I was just going to do the center sparkplug gasket and if they fixed the issue, then replace it.

Im just a college kid and I don't have the biggest budget haha