3.0 engine rebuild and re-install FAQ
 

Today, I would like to open a thread to invite ANYONE to post their experiences with the 3.0 Duratec engine in our x-type Jaguar. We have already been through the removal phase and the tear down phase is pretty straight forward. Currently I have my block ready to go to the machine/mechanic shop to have it vated, (cleaned out using a chemical and pressured through ALL oil gallies) this is to make sure there are no remnants of fine metal shavings left in the block. They will then mic and polish the crank, install new thrust bearings, install new rod bearings, de-glaze the cylinders and install new rings and locate a hole for an oil pressure gauge. The cost is not too bad at all. I have also decided to do some EXTRA work while everything is out of there. I have removed the half-shafts and wheel hubs. I am going to send the hubs out and have them powder coated black and have new bearings pressed in. I will also have my new crossed and drilled rotors black powder coated in the veins and wheel hub, front and back, but obviously not the surface the brakes ride on. I am also taking the time to send out the valve covers, front cover and plenum out to be polished. I will have the plenum black powder coat, the valve covers and the plenum will get a durable clear coat. Then the exhaust will also get attention. I will ceramic coat the oil pan and the exhaust down to the collector at the back of the engine compartment. When the block gets back I will paint it racing green. Over all I think this car will then be MINE! While all that is at the various trades I will work on the heads and right now do not know if I need to get a shop involved yet or not. The valves look pretty clean and the seats are still new looking so I don't think it needs to be "touched" and re-assembled. I already have several hundred dollars of gaskets and o-rings on order, included in that order are 24 valve stem seals. I don't know yet how to compress the spring since it is in a hole. I will need to do some homework on this. After the heads I will move to the Transmission and the infamous Transfer Case. I plan to drain the Transmission and remove the Pan to check the filter, if there is one. I will also need to find a suitable location for the new Transmission Temp Gauge. Then the Transfer Case. The TC "fill" plug is on top of the unit with one of the Tranny bolts right over the top of it covering it about 1/4 of its diameter. I wanted to put in a plumbing elbow and run pipe to the top of the engine compartment for easy drain and fill. We will see how this works out. I would also like to outfit the Tranny with a simple dip stick to check it's levels and for easy filling. The above 2 custom options may just be a "pipe" dream, know what I mean? Something I would like to do but haven't spent enough time exploring the possibilities. After the TC I will replace the seals on the Tranny and TC and then re-lube my CV joints and install new rubber boots. I will also put new rubber on the Tie-Rod and Lower Arm ball joints with fresh lube. My goal is 75,000 more trouble free miles. When the Drive shaft goes back in I will have re-greased the center bearing since I have heard the infamous "whining" in very cold temperatures. I only have 49 pics left in my albums on this site and will probably need to find a storage place somewhere else. Stay tuned for this awesome adventure into this "FUN" driving machine. Here is the beginning of this project. The Engine Parts list with part numbers and average cost at dealer. I DID NOT PRICE these parts from your dealer but from the ALLDATA information I had and it was pretty spot on with what I paid at http://www.jpamporschejaguarparts.com and my local dealer.

310jag, I hope you will also help with this thread.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=568
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=570

Best make sure you can get oversize bearings before you do anything: the other guy put up a picture of a wiped crankshaft, and you can't cut a 4.0 crank and get bearings for it. I would guess the situation is the same for 3.0: there isn't anything in the reprint above to indicate the availability of oversize bearings.

Cranks that are candidates for polishing don't really need it, and cranks that are visibly scored or cooked won't polish. So you will need a crank, or a good used engine.

If the crank is steel the journals can be built up with weld and ground back to standard size. I had one main journal rebuilt this way on a Porsche crank - it cost around $225 CAN.

Good luck,

Brian

Valid point that I'm glad you raised, and add to that straightening (after the weld and before the cut) and possibly heat treating , and that all will take alot more than $225 U.S. in my neighborhood.

On an unrelated note, who in the world builds a $30,000 car with a set of pistons that cost $2400?

Let's do some back ground
 

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/1142/rebuilding_the_ford_30l.aspx
By Roy Berndt
From the standpoint of customer satisfaction, the Ford Duratec engines have rapidly become Ford's finest engine launch in history. The engine ranked second in J.D. Power & Associates' satisfaction survey for 1996 and boasts zero claims against oil consumption.

This is a great place to get familiar with your engine. You may find yourself, like me, trying to find a gasket or pump or o-ring and cannot find a Jaguar supplied part. Well, with the correct information you can go to Ford/Lincoln and order the parts at a fraction of "Jaguar" cost.

A companion article on head gaskets

PERA'S Core Corner: Looking For Leakers In Ford's Duratec 3.0L Engines
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/1115/peras_core_corner_looking_for_leakers_in_fords_dur atec_30l_engines.aspx
By Roy Berndt


If you need the "doc" I have copies, just in case the link goes down.

Thanks for the site link, they have a very good basic primer on Nikasil lining that I can refer people to. Alot easier then rewriting the same answers.

It's been a while since my last update, but I'm about half way through the rebuild/reinstall process. As of tonight, the rebuilt motor is back on the subframe, bolted to the transmission. I still need to mount all of the accessories and wiring harness to the engine, but the motor itself is back with the rest of the drivetrain.

The following are pics from the process.. starting with the barely block on an engine stand, to the complete motor.
I'll comment a little on each of them as I go.. So, here we go! ..

Attachment 182876
The bare block back from the machine shop. They deglazed/rehoned the cylinders and hot tanked it.

Attachment 182877

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...g/DSCF3195.jpg
Notice the steel sleeves pressed into the aluminum block.

Attachment 182878

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...g/DSCF3197.jpg

Attachment 182879
A box with various things.. Old main/head bolts (not to be reused), the oil filter housing, old bearings, two rods that had to be replaced, and the six rod/piston assemblies.

Attachment 182880
MMmmmmm..... clean

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...g/DSCF3200.jpg
New bearings!

Attachment 182881
Over $500 worth of (necessary) bolts.

Attachment 182882
The new oil pan gasket.. an item which I know many of you will end up seeing. :/

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...g/DSCF3203.jpg
Rebuilt head, with all new valves seals, and all valves adjusted.

Attachment 182883

Attachment 182884

Attachment 182885
The crank.. which has been straightened, had the mains bored .010 and the rods bored .020.

Attachment 182886
Much better now than when it came out.

Attachment 182887
The Fel-Pro gasket set, which turned out to be junk. It was missing roughly 10 various coolant related o-rings, and one of the valve cover gaskets was wrong.

Attachment 182888
Just a quick shot of a couple coolant fittings and the valley block plate that I wire wheeled and painted.

Attachment 182889
Installation of the piston rings. As mentioned in the other thread, I had to use oem Jag ones from the dealer ($355 for the set), versus the $150 SealedPower ones that were supposed to be a match, but definitely weren't.

Attachment 182890

Attachment 182891

Attachment 182861
The connecting rods are interesting.. This is one of the two new ones I had to buy. When you unscrew the bolts, you have to crack the end cap off of the rod with a hammer. This rough break ensures each end cap is unique to the rod it came off of, and fits back very securely.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...g/DSCF3215.jpg
New bearing fitted

Attachment 182862

Attachment 182863

Attachment 182864
The lower block/main bolts mocked up with the windage tray.

Attachment 182865

Attachment 182866
These three pics are examples of rough and unfinished coolant passages in the block. There are places like this all through the motors.. that just look.. crappy. Especially where the lower block meets the upper block. It just looks like a poor casting job.

Attachment 182867

Attachment 182868

Attachment 182869
Main bearings/crank in place, and heavily lubed.

Attachment 182870
Anaerobic gasket maker is to be used instead of standard silicone. This stuff was not cheap, and not every parts store has it. It's the best stuff to use on aluminum, especially between two machined surfaces.

Attachment 182871
It doesn't take much, either. This was about twice as much as I should have used.

Attachment 182872
Lower block installed and torqued.

Attachment 182873

Attachment 182874

Attachment 182875

Attachment 182841
Rings, bearings, and new bolts installed... Ready for installation. The key to a smooth rebuild is to stay organized and plan ahead.

Attachment 182842

Attachment 182843

Attachment 182844

Attachment 182845

Attachment 182846
Lots of assembly lube is a must. White lithium grease in a big toothpaste like tube works great.

Attachment 182847
Guide rods stuck into the holes in the end of the rod help guide it onto the crank.

Attachment 182848
Piston fed into the block from the top, and coming down to meet crank.

Attachment 182849
Piston rings compressed, piston drove into block.

Attachment 182850
Almost there...

Attachment 182851
Firmly seated onto crank.

Attachment 182852
End cap in place

Attachment 182853
Torque, and repeat five more times.

Attachment 182854

Attachment 182855

Attachment 182856

Attachment 182857

Attachment 182858
Coolant fitting, knock sensor, and blocking plate in place.

Attachment 182859
Oil pump, pickup, and windage tray installed.

Attachment 182860

On to the heads!

Attachment 182825
Exploded view

Attachment 182826

Attachment 182827

Attachment 182828

Attachment 182829

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Attachment 182833
Head gaskets in place

Attachment 182834

Attachment 182835

Attachment 182836

Attachment 182837
Installed with new head bolts

Attachment 182838
Both sides in place

Attachment 182839

Attachment 182840
Nothing really special about this, but I thought I would point it out. This is a hole in the top of the block at the rear that has been filled with a freezeplug, and has a threaded hole next to it. This is where a standard distributor was installed for other variations of the Duratec, and blocked off for this application.

Time for the cams and timing assemblies

Attachment 182807

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Attachment 182816
Tensioner

Attachment 182817
Closeup of tensioner

Attachment 182818

Attachment 182819
Both sides timed (hopefully correctly...)

Attachment 182820
Installing the new oil seal into the front cover

Attachment 182821
Valve covers and the pullies installed.

Attachment 182822

Attachment 182823

Attachment 182824
Oil filter assembly installed with new o-ring, and tightened with an 11mm hex key.

Lookin' good, nice pics. Please tell me that's not a crack adjacent to the rod cap bolt hole on #6.

Haha.. Nope, I can't say that it is. I do see what you're talking about, though. Everything was thouroughly inspected before, during, and after assembly.. so if it was actually a crack, I'm sure I would have caught it.

No, I wasn't kidding (or breaking your stones)...it just looks funny in the pic. Best wishes for continued success with your project.

Timing???? Say WHAT?
 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=903
My timing marks are 180 from JTIS. My key was at 3 O'clock not 9. I tried but could not ever get the "First Cylinder" on the crank to be at TDC when marks align at 9. I tried and tried. So I figured that I should document this for when I rebuild. I may be wrong and be at the exhaust stroke and not compression, however it really doesn't matter as long as the chains go back the same way.
I ended up with #2, the Second Cylinder on the Crank, and #5, the Fifth Cylinder on the Crank at TDC. I was MOSTLY intrested in getting my CAM marks to line up with the JTIS pictures. I could ONLY acheive this under these positions. You will notice the "link" is just after the 3 O'clock mark. The same is true with the CAM marks, yellow dot. I counted 33 links CW to the 11 O'clock cam mark and 15 links between cams and then 22 from the 5 O'clock cam. (maybe 4 O'clock)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=857
Chain link mark just AFTER the 3 O'clock key position. Piston #2 of Crank is at TDC and Piston #5 on the crank is TDC
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=860
PLEASE NOTICE the background for camera angles. This angle is square with floor.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=861
I tried to make it look like JTIS so I squared camera with the VVT cross brace.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=862
Mark on Intake CAM about 5 O'clock (maybe closer to 4 O'clock). As You can see it has just come away from the chain
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=863

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=858
This is the RIGHT SIDE CAM set-up
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=859
SAME as LEFT side CAM set-up

I now have ALL my parts back from the Shop. I was told after a month that they just do not feel comfortable re-building this motor. The problem was that they are European specialist, LandRover, BMW but they have not done ANY of these Jaguar engines. They were not interested enough to download the JTIS and "Assemble" the motor. Just as well, I feel pretty confident I can do this. I have been over it in the manual many times. I even created an assembly document that I created for the shop. I am involved in another project for the next couple weeks but the weekend of the 10th I will resume with project.

Those of you who think you can do this, as I did, need to re-think it. The COST really begins to add-up. I had to pay $30 for a bolt and you need 5 of them. I recently paid $480 for all the "lower-end" bolts. These hold the Mains on, the "bed" ,as they call it, to the other half of the block and the ones that are used to hold the Oil Pan baffle. Add that to the $120 in head bolts. Then you get into decisions like "do I replace the oil pump or the water pump while it's apart. Then you have the entire gasket issue/cost. There is also about $680 in Rings, main bearings and rod bearings. Then there are about $200 in o-rings. It seems like the $$$$ continue to flow out of your pocket. I am doing this because I consider it relaxing and I plan to keep the vehicle for many more years.

As an alternative there is a company called EverDrive http://www.everdrive.com/ that will sell you low mileage motors with 3 year unlimited mileage for about $3500, shipping not included.

Looking good! It actually is starting to look like an engine...and I have never seen the guts of one of these before...the sheer complexity makes me wet myself thinking about doing something of this magnitude.

I've got a lot to say about the timing, but for chronological reasons, I'll go ahead and get these ~20 pics out of the way.

Attachment 182707
Engine on the hoist, ready to be removed from the stand and reinstalled on the subframe.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...g/DSCF3314.jpg

Attachment 182708
Installed, and mated to bellhousing.

Attachment 182709

Attachment 182710

Attachment 182711

Attachment 182712

Attachment 182713

Attachment 182714
Ready to go back in.

Attachment 182715

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...g/DSCF3336.jpg
A view that very, very few people will ever see of their X. This is looking up from the ground at the firewall with an empty engine bay.

Attachment 182716
Rear wheels still on the ground, front end up in the air.

Attachment 182717
Package going under.

Attachment 182718
Aligned.

Attachment 182719
Raising the package into the engine bay.

Attachment 182720

Attachment 182721

Attachment 182722

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...g/DSCF3351.jpg

Attachment 182723

Now, here's where things go to crap. After those last couple of pictures, I charged on, and assembled everything else that needed to be done in order to start the car. After MONTHS of anticipation, thousands of dollars, and endless frustration, I turn the key.

It cranks.

And cranks.

And cranks.

It finally fires, runs for 5-6 seconds, and stalls out with a buck, and wouldn't restart. It cranked very roughly, burped out of the intake, and just didn't sound good. The timing was off. Apparently I had too much faith in the accuracy of the JTIS timing instructions, and the advice given on the 3 liter motor blog. They're wrong. WRONG. After all of this work, I'm screwed up by someone's else bs instructions. Whoever wrote the JTIS section on timing for the X-type should HANG.

As of now it's throwing tons of codes, Cruise Not Available, Gearbox Fault, DSC system fault, CEL, and both red and yellow lights.
The gearbox and DSC messages kind of throw me off.. Even with motor problems, I didn't expect those. I know there's really nothing wrong with the tranny as it was just replaced a year ago, and hasn't acted up at all.

Long story short, here it is tonight. After removing the engine for the SECOND time, I'm going to tackle the timing tomorrow.

I pulled the valves covers, accessories, pullies, and front cover to get to what I needed to, without putting it back on the stand or removing the oil pan (just the front two pan bolts).

Attachment 182698

Attachment 182699

As it is now.. I know the rear bank is 180 out, so here's the front bank which I think may be alright (but I'm doubtful....James?)

Attachment 182700
Crank keyway at 3 on the dot.

Attachment 182701
Front bank exhaust cam timing mark.

Attachment 182702
Front bank intake timing mark near the "top." My finger is touching the link that is centered over the timing mark.

Attachment 182703
Both front bank cams, exhaust dot visible, see finger for location of intake dot.

The link counts between marks is as follows:

Crank keyway (starting with the first link away from it) moving clockwise to the intake cam mark = 34 links

Continuing clockwise to the mark on the exhaust cam = 15 links

Moving further clockwise, back to the crank keyway = 19 links.



Moving to the REAR bank

Attachment 182704
Intake

Attachment 182705
Exhaust

Attachment 182706
Both.

More to come, including CORRECT timing of this motor.. soon.

KEEP THE FAITH! Over the years, I have learned that the Jaguar manuals read wrong, even when they are right.

Attachment 182696


310 + James....lovin every minute of a fantastic write up / project which will be another FAQ to add to the collection.:):):)
Absolutely awesome detail....lookin forward to the timing issue resolution 310

We're pulling for ya 310, if only with moral support! Vent here if you like, and it will hopefully all pay off for you.

I deviate from my orientation of the engine from looking at it as left and right from the back of the motor to looking at it from the front as you would have it on a stand while working on it as to cut down on the mental conversion it takes to get position. LOOKING HEAD ON, STRAIGHT AT FRONT OF ENGINE

Jag310 used the previous post #15 "Timing??? Say What????" to set timing on his engine.

I heard his kitty purring with extreme contentment last night. Way to go 310!!! Still wnat to sell it???? Engine with 0 miles. Should have some value.

These marks are good and reliable. Make sure #2 and #5 are TDC when you have the Crank key at 3 o'clock. When I get mine assembled I will document the "counting" of the links, i.e. which link is 1 and which link is 33, 15 or 22 to help clear up the counting method.

What is important. Both the left side and the right side are identical positions, just different CAMs. The left exhaust 11 o'clock becomes the right intake at 11 o'clock. The left intake 4 o'clock becomes the right exhaust 4 o'clock. Using this method you can place BOTH chains on at the same time.

Let us continue
 

The CRANK & MAIN BEARINGS
 

I began the rebuild with the crank. I carefully mic’d the crank and the old bearings, then the new bearings, that were supposed to be 25mm oversized mains and 50mm oversized rods. I then checked the math to see if the new bearings would fit correctly.
http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1768.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1770.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1773.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1776.jpgClick on image for larger size
I then dry fitted the original bearings and used plasti-gauge to check original clearance ( + ) the amount that had been taken away from the crank. This was my only reference data since I had no specs to work with. After I had the results I could not get any “clear” answers as to the bearing clearance.
http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1778.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1780.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1781.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1783.jpg
I decided that I had to trust my machinist on the crank and use the oversized bearing. But oversized from what? Bearing size #1, #2 or #3. My block was marked with “2” pointing at the three cyl to the left and right. There was also a Stamp on the back of the block that had 2S2222.
http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1654.jpg
I learned that these are the codes for the bearing sizes. There was also supposed to be one on the back of the crank, it was not there anymore.

CRANKSHAFT CODE / BLOCK CODE
1. READ THE ELEVEN CHARACTER CODES ON THE CYLINDER BLOCK FACE
AND THE CRANKSHAFT FLANGE. THEY ARE ARRANGED AS FOLLOWS:
*####*####*. THE FIRST TWO NUMBERS AFTER THE FIRST ASTERISK
MAKE UP THE CODE FOR MAIN #1 AND THE NEXT TWO NUMBERS FOR
MAIN #2. THE FIRST TWO NUMBERS AFTER THE SECOND ASTERISK
MAKE UP THE CODE FOR MAIN #3 AND THE LAST TWO NUMBERS FOR
MAIN #4.

2. LOOK AT THE SELECT−FIT CHART BELOW AND FOR EACH MAIN, MATCH
THE BLOCK AND CRANKSHAFT CODE WITH ITS CORRESPONDING COLUMN
OR ROW. BY READING ACROSS THE CRANKSHAFT ROW AND DOWN THE
BLOCK COLUMN, SELECT THE PROPER GRADE BEARING FOR EACH MAIN.
(E.G. IF THE BLOCK CODE IS *0609*0711* AND THE CRANKSHAFT CODE
IS *8480*8082*, MAIN #1 SHOULD BE BUILT WITH GRADE 1 BEARINGS, AS
DETERMINED BY THE INTERSECTION OF THE 06 BLOCK COLUMN AND THE 84 CRANKSHAFT ROW. MAINS 2,3, AND 4 SHOULD ALL BE GRADE 2.)

SELECT−FIT MAIN BEARING GRADE CHART
Attachment 182363
This chart is from the -543-FORD Assembly Chart 2001 for 3.0L Tau/Sab. (NOTE: not positive this is the correct chart. I think TAU is Tarus and SAB is Sable)

So now what? I looked at the old bearing and it’s thickness mic’d in at what the #2 size bearing mic’d. (Note: You need a dome mic to properly mic curved surface. I used both types and ended up with the same readings.) I had earlier purchased the Jaguar #2 bearing size. So it would appear that my engine had #2 bearing size, which mic’d at .09 and my 25mm oversize bearing mic’d .103. At this point I felt I could move ahead. Why the trouble? The bearings are “size to fit”. Translated in my mind as the mains could have a combination of bearing sizes, #1, #2 and #3. After feeling more confident that ALL my original bearings were #2 I felt the 25mm oversized bearings were indeed the correct main bearings so I proceeded to place on the bed/girdle and bolt it down with $400 worth of ALL NEW BOLTS that were required. I then installed my rear oil seal. I installed the new oil pump.
http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1788.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1789.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1790.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1793.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1792.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1794.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1796.jpg
I will post more in the days to come, covering
"RODS, PISTONS & RINGS",
"HEADs, GASKETS & SEALS",
"TIMING",
and other parts of intrest.

Man, later on as the car engine quit on me i was thinking of dropping a 350, v6, or v8 in and switching out the nessacsary components. But too bad i have no idea on the project and the requiremnets, i proabally will let a professional handle the task, let me how the "intense" project goes.

The RODS, PISTONS & RINGS
 

Now moving on after that I started to do the pistons, rod bearings and rings. I sent my pistons out and had new bushings pressed in and honed. I used Power Seal bushings. The machinist, now on my second shop, said the bushings had to have alot honed out of them as to fit. He also said that the old ones had seen catastrophic oil failure or the lack of lubrication all together. Now my pistons are ready to install, moving freely once again. I had decided to measure end-gap of the rings and install the pistons. I purchased Power Seal ring kit for $25 off eBay, normally $142. They were never used and complete. They were the same thickness as the original rings and the end-gap was correct.

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1808.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1807.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1803.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1824.jpg
http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1835.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1831.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1833.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1823.jpg

The problem was with the oil ring set. First the corrugated ring would NOT FIT. The wiper rings were the same thickness as originals. I decided to re-use the original corrugated oil ring and the new wiper rings. Feeling a little disappointed I continued to assemble the rings on the pistons and arrange the rings in their staggered positions.
http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1813.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1814.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1815.jpghttp://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...h_DSCF1816.jpg
Once the rings were in place I installed the 50mm oversized Power Seal bearings. This is when the gremlins came in late that night and ate half my bearings. I looked for 1 ½ hrs and could not find the other packet that I had the night before. I loaded 3 pistons with bearings and proceeded to install them. I used my ring compression tool and collapsed the rings as much as I could. I used wood dowels that I threaded on one end, using a die, so I could screw into the rods and guide my rods on the crank.
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I pressed, tapped and noticed I could not get them to enter the cylinder. It appeared that the oil ring wipers were not compressing. I previously checked the end-gap and it fit within spec. I took a very close look. The wiper rings were free, they were the correct dia. verified by end-gap measurement, thickness was identical to old rings. So what was different? Internal diameter was not the same, by that I mean that the surface area was larger. Now I was going to have to order new rings and place an overnight on them. I tried to order IMC rings but was told the next day that they had no stock, but could substitute with the Power Seal rings. I ended up purchasing rings from Jaguar for $410 and then overnight delivery. I also ordered a new WoodRuff key since my first machinist kindly did not return my original.

The Power Seal ring kit is made for the Power Seal Pistons which comes in various sizes. Don’t make this mistake and order Power Seal , they DO NOT FIT. I spoke to Jag310 during his rebuild and this was his experience also, while he was on the phone I tested the rings on a piston for fit. I did not open them up and install them in their respective groves, I simply took them out and slid them, edge wise into their appropriate grove, even the oil ring and wipers fit that way. At the time I thought maybe mine were different or maybe mine were not the exact rings since I purchased an open box.
Moving on, once I had the new rings and another set of 50mm oversized rod bearings I removed the Power Seal rings and installed the new ones after verifying that they had the correct end gap. I also installed the final 3 bearings. Remembering how the Toyota bearing came out of its notch I made sure these were well seated. Now these rings went much better. I had no idea which way to put in the 2nd compression ring, it had a step in its profile. The Power Seal sheet said that the taper goes upward toward the top of the piston. Ford assembly manual had a sideways “z” with the taper toward the top.
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I installed with the flat toward the bottom and the step toward the top. After installing 5 of the 6 pistons I opened the last box. To my surprise there was a FORD wrapper in the package with the installation information. All the previous wrappers were simple brown paper, no instructions.
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It turns out that the FLAT goes up with the step toward the bottom. Welcome to the school of hard knocks.
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I installed #6 correctly and then bumped the other 5, one at a time, out far enough to get my hands on the 2nd ring and flip it over. Finish the block by installing the Water Pipe Inlet, the knock sensor and the blanking cover. New gaskets and o-rings of course. Feeling confident that I had completed step 2 of this task I moved to the Heads.

HEADs, GASKETS & SEALS
 

While I waited on my Jaguar rings I tackled the heads. I took the heads to the same shop as the pistons and had the re-vat them and install new FelPro stem seals. I opted not to have the valves & seats touched. This may come back on me later. I had the head stripped down to nothing but the stem seals and valve guides.
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The stem seals gave me an issue removing and I was afraid to grab them with needle nose vice grips. I did not want to damage the valve guides. I carefully re-assembled them and prepped then for install. Head gaskets are also another place to go wrong. I ordered Jaguar gaskets twice. The first time I simply ordered online the head gaskets. The left was correct and the right was different.
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Ordered without VIN. Obvious difference, Left is Original

I ordered a second time over the phone using my VIN. The left was correct but the right was only extremely close, all but a small water port through hole. I decided to drill this hole through since it was already on the top side.
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Ordered with VIN. Still not 100%. Original/New bottom, Original/New top. Notice the "hole" is in the New top layer in the last photo. This hole is the one I finished with a drill.

Now my heads and gaskets were ready. I install the Left head and torque it down. I lay the right gasket up on the block and my attention was taken to the large holes at the top of the head gasket and the inside edge of the block. Something is not right! Ah yes, the alignment guides! I looked around for the guides and pressed them into the block. Now the right head was much better, the gasket aligned up no problem and the head did not try to slip off the block. Torqued that head down and removed the left head and installed the alignment guides. Installed new bolts, lucky I ordered 4 sets!
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I know I probably could have used the ones I just put in since they have not had any temp cycling but I chose not to chance anything especially with the low cost of the bolts from FelPro.

Timing
 

Charging ahead now more focused and refreshed. I moved to the timing chain, tensioners , guides and VVT assembly. I installed the new WoodRuff key and the timing chain gear, turned the crank until #2 piston on the crank and #5 piston on the crank were at TDC and the key is at 3 O’clock.
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This is the pre-teardown position the engine was at before any timing was touched. I loosened the Intake Cam caps and used a 1” open end wrench to turn the cam mark to the 11 O’clock position. I loosened the caps on the Exhaust Cam and used a socket on the sprocket nut to turn it to the 5 O’clock position. I got the new chain, with 3 bright yellow links, and laid the yellow links on the cam marks and took out the slack.
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Note: the VVT assembly must be in place and you have to place the right hand, as you are facing the front of the engine on the stand, chain on first. On the VVT assembly be sure to replace the small o-ring that seals to the face of the block. I also installed two new seals on the neck that plugs into the Intake cam sprocket.
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Install the tensioner guide rail and the tensioner itself. Make sure the chain is tight across the cam sprockets and tight from the exhaust cam sprocket to the gear on the crank. DO NOT REMOVE the pin on the tensioner yet. Now set up the cams the same way on the right side. Install the VVT guide rail. Exhaust cam mark at 11 O’clock and Intake at 5 O’clock. Lay the chain on the same way as the right side. This time make sure the chain is tight across the cam sprockets and the Intake sprocket to crank gear is tight. Install the Tensioner guide rail and then the tensioner.
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Torque the bolts to correct setting on the guide rails, VVT and also the Tensioners themselves. Now torque the cams down to proper specifications in proper sequence. Assuming you used CAM lube and Assembly lube, dry turn engine a few revolutions, I turned mine well over 15 revolutions until the yellow marks lined up again on the cams (it took forever), SLOWLY to check for binding or constriction. You should be able to turn crank easily. If you experience any binding or hard to turn spots something is wrong and you should investigate. If all is well pull the pin on your tensioners. There is one other item that you will have to install for timing to be complete. The CPK sensor pulse wheel. It is possible to install it 180 degrees out of timing and ruin your day. The JTIS has no documentation on this, that I found. There are two notches cut into the center of the pulse wheel that slide down the crank woodruff key, they are on opposite sides of the wheel, left to right. The proper placement is with teeth facing forward and the “GAP” in the teeth lined up with the crank woodruff key.
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Timing is set. (This section was from my personal experience with my original timing and differs somewhat from the JTIS instructions. JTIS has the WoodRuff key set at 9 0’clock but mine was at 3 O’clock. Jag310 used the above procedure and his engine purred. I don’t think JTIS is wrong, but rather the procedure they describe is difficult to follow and understand for a novice like myself.)

great reporting..
since i love to nit pick (hehe) the picture of measuring the main bearing shells, shows a digital vernier caliper - not a micrometer....
also the shells are curved, and the faces of the caliper are flat, so the measurement is for sure not accurate. The plastigauge should get everything right, but I dont like to see people miss-lead on some stuff..

thanks for all your work here,, keep it coming, I appreciate it.

Jimmy,
Yes, the image shows the digital verneir, only because I was getting the same readings with my dome mic. The point was not to mislead but to inform that there are varing tolerances that can be seen IF your bearings are mixed. The Verneir gave me a consistant reading over a larger surface area throughout my bearings, verifying that they were indeed identical to each other. It also allowed me to see that my original bearings were the #2 Jaguar bearing. Jaguar, as far as I could find, does not have "sizes" in amount "oversized". I also could not find any information on tolerances and cleareances for the mains, crank, or rods. I did use Plasti-guage and dry crush brearings, but this was only to see how close I was to the "original" set.

OTHER ITEMS of INTREST Pt1
 

This is the section for some of the pieces that mount to the Block to finish your assembly.
Install the Oil Pan Baffle before the Pick-Up tube, should use new nuts.
Oil Pick-Up tube, Install new o-ring seal on the oil pick-up tube.
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Valve Covers, new gaskets for the Valve Covers and new rubber. I made the MISTAKE of removing the VVT solenoid seal in the Valve Cover. Jaguar DOES NOT sell this part separately for the X-Type and the S-Type seal DOES NOT FIT. I had to order a new Valve Cover for the Left side. During disassembly I noticed that the right one had a damaged hole and was cracked horizontally in the boss. I had to also replace the right.
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Two new valve covers. Just so you know, they come with the bolts and both inner and outer seals and of course the VVT solenoid seal.
PVC Valve, I picked up a new PVC valve. This is a TWIST on lock type PVC with an o-ring seal. There are two plastic spring “d-tents” that you must seat into the Valve cover. Twist PVC in until the d-tents lock into their respective indents. This is the locked position. While turning in mine, it felt as if it was turned as far as you could turn. I grabbed the old unit and made sure that they were identical. I then proceeded to turn it past where it felt it was stopped and sure enough it moved past that position and the d-tents dropped into the indents.
Front Cover, 4 new seals, the left, inner, right and the front main oil seal. Be sure to place a dab of gasket sealer over the union of the various block parts, ie the bed/girdle to block, the heads to block.
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I even placed a dab at the top or the heads to make sure I made a good seal here also. I almost forgot about the INNER seal section. With things going together a bit more smoothly I became distracted and was looking father down the road than my current task. Don’t let this slip by your attention. Start with the inner seal area first.
Engine Mount, mine was rusty and was not easy to remove during tear down. I cleaned the back side and coated the contact points with anti-seize. On the outside a fresh coat of paint.
Pulleys, If you want you can get new bearings and have them pressed in to renew their longevity I also gave them a fresh coat of paint. The belt tensioner Pulley was removed and I used a fine wire wheel on a buffer to clean up and brighten the assembly. The pulley bearing is a good candidate for replacement.
Water Pipes, the top of the block has a water pipe inlet with the water temp sensor on it. Be sure to replace the seals there including the water temp sensor seal.
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This is the location I plan to place a “T” to install a gauge, so I may use pipe tape or pipe dope to make my seal. The Temp seal face presses firmly on a metal washer like material with a rubber mat attached.
Fuel Injectors, Inspect ALL injectors for damage. Mine had cracks on the boss of the injector.
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Although this is a minor issue solved with some black electrical tape, I chose to replace them all. The reason for replacement was the prevention of moisture entering the boss and causing the injector to become damaged more. I was told from a friend that these injectors must have seen some real heat to crack the boss, so be aware that electrical tape may not stay tight. You should also replace the O-ring seals.
Wiring Harness, I had a crispy, crackling harness. I removed all the electrical tape from the harness and renewed it with a fresh wrap. I used a Scotch brand that was good up to 194°F temp. I also used the adhesive type muffler tape, with fiberglass, to wrap areas that were in or near the heat of the Exhaust.
Gage add-ons, Oil Pressure, I located an oil galley below the Power Steering pump.
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Due to the heat in this location I wrapped my sender in muffler tape as well as the wire. Water Temp, I was tempted to place a “T” on the factory location until I carefully examined the “tip” of the factory sending unit. It is mounted in the flow of the water. I figured if I moved it out of the flow I might throw some signal out of range or worse cause it to read cooler. I chose to have a bung welded onto the water outlet pipe that connects the block to the water pump. I had this one set in the flow also. Tranny Temp, I had a bung welded to the bottom right corner of the black pan mounted to the tranny. This will not necessarily give me a true reading but it will allow me to monitor a rise in temperature. Thoughts, I could have simply “spliced” into the electrical wiring of the harness at the Oil pressure sender, Water temp sender, and the Tranny temp sender but I know that the Vehicle Computer looks at small voltage differences to make it’s adjustments. Adding resistance and a voltage drop due to the “Extra” wire spliced into the sending units MIGHT throw the readings out of range. I chose to be safe. Believe it or not, you have an Oil Pressure sender, Oil Temp sender, Water Temp sender and a Transmission Temp sender already on that powertrain. It would have been nice if Jaguar/Ford would have cluttered up the Instrument Cluster with some “live” gages.

OTHER ITEMS of INTREST Pt2
 

Custom Tool, I made this tool to hold the Crank Pully in place while torquing bolt. This is easy to build and takes very little skill to make. I used ground down Allen wrench shaft for pegs. The allen wrench in question was round except for about 1/2" from the ends.
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Exhaust, As for myself, I know that the engine bay is very hot and a lot of that heat is from those cats packed into the compartment. I decided to use Exhaust wrap on the headers, cats and pipes. I used 1” wide wrap on the headers and 2” on the pipes and cats. The trick I learned here was not to cut the wrap but to make a continuous wrap. First I wire brushed the headers and the rusted steel on the ends of the Cats. I used MEK to clean the metal, being very careful with the CATS as not to allow foreign chemicals and or material to enter the chamber. I then used 1500°F paint I picked up with the Exhaust wrap and painted the components. Be sure to mask over the Flanges and bung for the O2 sensor. (Another trick here is to leave the tape over the bung hole for the 02 sensor while you wrap the CAT. Later, after the water soaked wrap has dried and you need to cut the hole through the Fiber wrap you will be glad to have that tape in place. It will keep out the foreign material of the fibers from entering the CAT.)
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I had a bucket of water and spooled out 10 or 15 feet of wrap into the water. I then proceeded to wrap each component with a single length. This worked well for me. I tried the dry wrap/cut method and could never wrap it the same way after I soaked the wrap. I allowed the continuous wrap to dry and then using the High Temp paint, painted/sealed them. Overall I think it was a success. As for the “Flange” unions and pipe unions I used the adhesive muffler tape to cover these areas after Exhaust was assembled.
Marring Engine and Transmission, First I put 1 qt of fluid into the Torque converter. While that was settling I hoisted the Transmission onto a Table/Work bench that was about 30” high. I leveled the Transmission and gently inserted the Torque Converter after checking the alignment flats inside the Transmission. I pressed the Torque Converter into the Transmission and turned it but could not get it to completely drop in place. I tried a second turn and still no drop. Then, while I was wondering how to do this task, I placed my hand on the front of the Converter and clunk, it dropped into place. Now with the Engine on the hoist I lined up the Bell Housing to the Transmission alignment sleeves on the block.
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I did not mention that the Fly Wheel was already on and torque to spec. It is very important that the engine be level on the hoist. It took several tries before I had the chains just right. Rolled the motor to the Transmission and installed the most of the bolts. There are a few bolts that go through brackets that were not installed yet. Once the Transmission is mounted add some chains to it and lift the whole powertrain as one unit. NOTE: My engine was complete with exhaust and accessories before I mounted to Transmission. My Transfer Case was not attached to my Transmission. This caused me to have to take off the rear CAT and the cross tube just to mount the Transfer Case. You should mount the Transfer Case to the Transmission BEFORE you marry the Engine and Transmission. My final assembly was to torque the 4 Torque converter bolts to the Flywheel, torque the Transmission bolts and install the Starter and torque to spec.
PLUMBING, I proceeded to install the water pipes and hoses and installed new Thermostat. Be sure to use fresh O-rings. This is as far as the assembly can go without putting the powertrain back into the car.

So what’s next? I will try something different. We have a three day weekend. I am going to try an OVERHEAD install of the power train. It looks like it is possible. If it works then getting engine in and out would not be MAJOR work on your back. I plan to mount and align my sub-frame first. Remove the hood and attempt to “Lower” powertrain onto their mounts. There are only 4 connections to the sub-frame. 1st is your Power Steering Pump line, 2nd is the Anti-roll Restrictor, 3rd and 4th are indirect and that is the half-shafts (front axels). My wheel hubs/shock towers are not mounted to the sub frame currently. I think it will not be too difficult to mount them after the sub-frame and Powertrain are installed. Look for the RE-INSTALL post in this thread next week.

Attachment 182230

James.....your posts are just awesome:)
so detailed and informative as are 310's......a real credit and help to this site as well as others I'm sure......keep it comming big guy:)


Your info on the engine / electricals / links / parts etc etc etc were all posted by on your behalf and have been made FAQ........Once again, thanks on behalf of all the members

Looks good, and a very nice write up...however...why not get rid of that bulky exhaust...now is the time to get headers, and junk that factory system....

Getting rid of the Exhaust
 

RacerX,
I would LOVE to get rid of the stock headers and cats. The problems I am sure that would arise are the O2 sensor readings to the ECU. This would require an ECU custom program. I live in FORD and CHEVY TRUCK town USA, Oklahoma. I haven't found anyone around that has the knowledge and experience to do the job required. If I'm not mistaken, I believe you can out-fit Mazda RX-7 headers to the manifold and then have a muffler shop bend/weld the rest. I am un-aware of any off-the-shelf solutions. I've seen some of your posts and have admired what you have done to your cat. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I remember you had re-done your exhaust and re-programmed your ECU. I hold back on the exhaust because another $2k is not what I want to put into this cat right now.

If you know of an off-the-shelf exhaust replacement I would be grateful to know. Also if you know who can re-program the ECU this info would also be good to have.

I have purchased a couple of items that might allow me to flash my ROM. I purchased the AutoEnguinity code reader for its interface to the PC and I purchased a Jag programming CD that requires a red or blue interface to the ACL. I am hoping to be able to use the AutoEnguinity interface to the ACL and maybe the Jag software will see the interface. If not I have a great diagnostic tool/data logger.

You guys are GREAT!!

Ya, your right, it was a pain to flash the ECu....i took one out of a mazda, and my headers were custom made, but now i understand that the mazda headers fit with a little tweaking.

They sure didn't make the X type easy to work on with custom parts thats for sure.

agreed

I got a quick question for you Jfenley
 

When you timed the engine, you bought 2 new timing chains with the marks on them. Now my question is; have you counted how many links are there on a chain and how many links are they apart? If you could help me on this, I will not have to go spend money to buy new chains. Any help will be appreciated on this. I am planning on painting the links that you may point out and get the timing right hopefully. becuase I really dont want to fail this second time around.

Southwest,
Fired mine back up today. Sounds healthy and strong. Timming with JITS was too difficult for mr to follow. This is what I reccommend.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...&pictureid=903

This image translates to:

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Left Side

Attachment 182212
Right Side

Attachment 182213

Attachment 182214

Attachment 182215

Attachment 182214

Attachment 182216

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.
Attachment 182217

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...pictureid=1355

Try this post for more info https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...0&postcount=15

Also https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...7&postcount=28

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the help Jfenley. My problem from begining was , not being able to start the car. I thought of couple of possibilities, either head gasket wasnt torqued right and second was incorrect timing. now with the pictures you posted I ve did the timing for 4 times on both heads and my compression is still 90psi in 4 cylinders, one cylinder puts out about 120psi and last one is 160psi. so right now, I am planning of removing the heads one more time and get new gaskets and install them with new bolts and torque them one more time.