Brake Bleeding Problem
 

Hi I am new to this forum, so I hope I have posted this in the correct place as this is the only new thread link I could find.
I have replaced my Master Brake Cylinder and have now bled the wheels and the ABS HCU, but I cannot get any brake pressure on the pedal.
Has anyone got any advice please

Forgot to say, it is a Jaguar x-type 2L 2005

You must prebleed the M/C on bench before installing. If installed then bled ABS full of air and will be hard to get out. Keep bleeding until pedal firm. There is usually bleeders on ABS pump but must adhere to proper bleeding instructions very strictly, I do not know them.

Hahaha! its ok dude. I am an experienced mechanic, I pre bled this car and I still got the same problem. What you have to do it get a buddy to sit inside the car, step on the brake pedal and hold it down, and you crack the lines to the abs module just slightly, when his foot goes down then tighten and tell him to step on it again. The trick in this is patience. then bleed your wheels.

Best of luck, and when in doubt, it might be time to call an expert, we don't want you to mess around with your brakes as they are important!!!

Thanks for help
Have already bled ABS and wheels, but still have no brakes.
New brake fluid had already been installed but DOT 4 was recommended at the time.
Currently in process of changing brake pads to see if that helps.

When you bled the brakes at the wheel,did you make sure that the bottle was above the bleeding tube? This is a lesson that I learned a short time ago. If you put the bottle below the bleeding tube the air gets fed back into the system.

Let us know!

Have tried everything now. It seems that the RR and LF wheel has a blockage when trying to bleed. LF gets a tiny bit of fluid, but RR gets nothing. No fluid, no air. It doesn't feel like the bleed nipple is opening. Any ideas would be gratefully received.

Maybe the hose is kinked? or bad? Undo the hose and see if fluid comes out of there. If it does the "blockage" is at the caliper.

Have you tried completely removing the bleeder tube, putting a rag and stepping on it maybe that will unclog it.

Let us know!

How about the brake bias ( differential ) valve, bleed from both sides.

Have pressurised system and beld brakes again.
RR and FL seem to have a blockage, that is to say that the brake pedal will not go to the floor when trying to bleed although bleeding nipple is open and fluid is coming out, slowly.
I think I will have to find a auto mechanic who can come to the house as with 'no brakes' this car isn't going anywhere.
Thanks for everyones help on this matter.
I will let you know what the outcome is for future reference.

We have now discovered that the 'brake lights' are on constantly whilst car engine is on. They go out when engine off.
Not sure if this is causing the brake bleeding problem on hte RR and FL wheels, or if it happened when the rear brake pads were changed.
Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks

Air in the system." fluid doesn't compress air will" holding system pressurized and in the rear it's a bugger to get out. Persistence!

Mechanic has now solved the 'no brakes' problem, but not the original problem which made us change the master cylinder.

New Master Cylinder
New Rear Brake Pads
All bled and working properly

Can anyone please confirm if this is a characteristic of a Jaguar X-Type:- When holding your foot on the brake pedal, with the engine running, the brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor.
:icon_bricks:

peddle travel
 

To answer your question, well, yes, it also is a characteristic of ANY vehicle that has a problem with leaking wheel cylinder,brake line, air in the system or pads that are worn out or low fluid or a master cylinder(which you have changed). That said, there is nothing magical about the Jag brake system, pretty straight forward. Air in the system will give you a spongy feel, opening up the lines for a master cylinder COULD have let air into the ABS system which can cause weird symptoms but should trigger a CEL,' on doing both the rears and the master at the same time sounds like it's low on fluid in the lines, the wheel cylinders but the reservoir could be full. I would rebleed the system, check for leaks. I've heard of the cups in a new master cylinder sucked backwards.If you can pump up the brakes and they are hard it could be low on fluid, if soft (spongy) it's air, if you can't pump them up I would check everything over. Keep us posted

I have found on all my vehicles that it is better to use a pressure bleed kit you can pick them up at auto accessory shops or motor factors not very expensive you connect it to your spare wheel for the pressure.
Dell

Thanks everyone for your help.
The initial brake bleeding problem was resolved using a pressurised system.
The main reason for changing the master cylinder was because the brake pedal continued going to the floor under pressure, although the brakes passed the test okay.
Apparently, the brake pedal continuing to the floor is a characteristic on Diesel Jags, which no one could confirm, but I have now managed to ascertain.
This does not mean that there is air, leaks or anything else, it is expected to happen, as long as it doesn't go completely to the floor, which mine didn't, so I changed the Master Cylinder for no reason except an MOT mechanic who didn't know Jags very well...or a lot of other cars apparently, that do this.

Car now back on road with new MOT and I'm, at last, a happy bunny.

Thanks

brakes
 

Tina
Glad you got your brake problem resolved, they can be scarey. I did not realize you were fighting a DIESEL engine brake problem. Diesels do not manufacture vacuum on there own because they have NO venturi or carburetor persay they use a vacuum pump to create vacuum and consequently the brakes are a big consumer of vacuum but the braking system works identical to a gas engine except for that little quirk.
You signed off" Bunny," is that like Playboy Bunny?:icon_bunny:

Tina
You did say 2005 2L witch is a diesel, sorry I'm bad.

Hi mate my brakes grind a bit at bottom of pedal press like abs issue.. any help