x-type cold air intake mounts
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Hi, i just finished installing a cold air intake in my x-type (love the sound) i have just a little problem, i have no idea how to mount it into place, is there any type of kit or something?
thanks in advance |
Freddy, I can't help you with mounting the intake, but something I would suggest you do while you are in the engine bay rooting around is to get a new style PCV hose. I notice the one in the picture is the original smooth kind. That is guaranteed to split on the bottom side at some point. The new one is much more robust. Cheap to buy and takes less than 5 minutes to install. Could save you some hassle down the road. Kind of surprised to still see there are cars out there that still have that one. One of those things where it's not a question of "if, but a question of "when" it will split.
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Originally Posted by Alfadude
(Post 1686955)
Freddy, I can't help you with mounting the intake, but something I would suggest you do while you are in the engine bay rooting around is to get a new style PCV hose. I notice the one in the picture is the original smooth kind. That is guaranteed to split on the bottom side at some point. The new one is much more robust. Cheap to buy and takes less than 5 minutes to install. Could save you some hassle down the road. Kind of surprised to still see there are cars out there that still have that one. One of those things where it's not a question of "if, but a question of "when" it will split.
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If you do a search on here you will learn all about them. The other two simple part failures are the brake booster check valve and the IMT O-Rings. From your picture your brake booster looks good, but you can't really tell if the plastic is degraded or not. And it looks like your o-rings might have been replaced as it looks like the bolts holding the IMT tuning valves in place are really shiny. Those three items I bet account for 75% of the vacuum leaks. Might take about 15 minutes total to replace all three and less than $100. Easiest and cheapest repairs ever. If you do a search on here there is tons of info on them.
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Originally Posted by Alfadude
(Post 1686985)
If you do a search on here you will learn all about them. The other two simple part failures are the brake booster check valve and the IMT O-Rings. From your picture your brake booster looks good, but you can't really tell if the plastic is degraded or not. And it looks like your o-rings might have been replaced as it looks like the bolts holding the IMT tuning valves in place are really shiny. Those three items I bet account for 75% of the vacuum leaks. Might take about 15 minutes total to replace all three and less than $100. Easiest and cheapest repairs ever. If you do a search on here there is tons of info on them.
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Mine is from Mina Gallery and came with a metal enclosure (heat shield?) which is mounted to existing holes on the engine case
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Originally Posted by santer
(Post 1687257)
Mine is from Mina Gallery and came with a metal enclosure (heat shield?) which is mounted to existing holes on the engine case
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ymG9CF6qp8 |
Will hopefully get those tomorrow.
Have moved it now but should be able to see where it was. Ninety degree bend removed as it ran lumpy when the LPG system was upgraded and it would touch on the hood when closed with the bend having it go across the engine. |
Originally Posted by Freddy Stroman
(Post 1686990)
yeah i replaced the o rings last weak i noticed it started to "hiss" ill check the brake booster too and make sure its good. is there any thing in specific to check in the brake booster plastic?
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Originally Posted by santer
(Post 1687333)
Will hopefully get those tomorrow.
Have moved it now but should be able to see where it was. Ninety degree bend removed as it ran lumpy when the LPG system was upgraded and it would touch on the hood when closed with the bend having it go across the engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGnoL8lInt0 |
Still using it but in its new position, which gives it more clearance from the closed hood
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Originally Posted by santer
(Post 1687964)
Still using it but in its new position, which gives it more clearance from the closed hood
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Just used the original bottom air box, it already mounted, cut the half circle on the side that tube come in, it open in front and on top, if you want to make it look nice then paint it the color you like.
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Originally Posted by Thang Nguyen
(Post 1689278)
Just used the original bottom air box, it already mounted, cut the half circle on the side that tube come in, it open in front and on top, if you want to make it look nice then paint it the color you like.
My battery (1150 CCA 220Ah) was moved to the boot because I wanted one that could handle the dash cams in parking mode for a while. You could ask Mina if they have any of the heat shields left over - Contact / About / Ordering |
2 Attachment(s)
Just a real quick update for anybody who was in the same problem as me, you need to buy a Intake bracket kit from spectre and conect it to the screw on the clasp and then just look for any bolt in the engine bay to hold it down.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/311611088347
I couldn't ever get that style bracket to work, no matter what I did or where I mounted it, it always rattled loose and the filter would end up resting on the ignition coil. I eventually switched to the bracket I linked and I haven't had a problem since. I bolted the little 90 degree piece to the bottom side of the lip on the core support through the mounting plate that holds the catch for the hood and pointed the the actual bracket towards the backside of the radiator where it could mate up to the 90 degree piece. Nice and stiff now. I can post a picture later if you need me to. |
Originally Posted by X-TypeMentality
(Post 1690154)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311611088347
I couldn't ever get that style bracket to work, no matter what I did or where I mounted it, it always rattled loose and the filter would end up resting on the ignition coil. I eventually switched to the bracket I linked and I haven't had a problem since. I bolted the little 90 degree piece to the bottom side of the lip on the core support through the mounting plate that holds the catch for the hood and pointed the the actual bracket towards the backside of the radiator where it could mate up to the 90 degree piece. Nice and stiff now. I can post a picture later if you need me to. |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...655ad415eb.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9ee65f3ee1.jpg 2nd picture is looking towards the front of the car from the intake manifold to show where the 90 piece is mounted. At the bottom of 1st picture you can see the bolt that secures that 90 through the latch bracket and core support. I need to adjust mine actually... You could, of course, figure out your own way of using the bracket pieces and mount it somewhere else. |
Freddy if you don’t mind me askin where did you get your cold air intake kit ? I’ve been searching everywhere for it I can’t find any that would fit ?
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Actually, what he did was change a COLD air intake to a HOT air intake.
Your X draws air from ducts behind the grille, which is as cold as the air will get, then feeds it to the filter box. By using the K&N-type filter (bad idea #1) and mounting it on top of the engine (bad idea #2), now the engine draws about the hottest air possible. I think we can be confident that the guys who designed the original system didn't sit there trying to come up with the least efficient intake they could design. If you look at the duct design, you see that the shape is more complex than you would expect, which means they put some thought into the aerodynamics. The paper filter gives plenty of surface area, and it actually traps particulates which are small enough to go right through the K&N. Given the above, about the only benefit to be found from the "cold" air intake system is if you're the guy who's selling it. |
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