Thanks for clearing that up and yes I had it backwards for sure!
Yes lets keep it on the Dual Radiator thread so it's easier to find.
Dual AUX Radiators
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NP @clubairth1 ! Thanks for your contributions as well.

Made some more progress on the overhaul. Got the manifold, S/C, and wings off the car, as well as the water pump and some more hoses. Looks like my coupler was also showing some wear based on the "sling" stains inside the housing and I did have some audible knocking noise when shutting the car off that concerned me. Hoping this was the cause. Even some gouges on the snout shaft. My first time pulling apart a supercharger, was a lot of fun and has been a great learning experience. I feel kind of bad, everyone talks about how hard it is to remove the supercharger from the seized guide pins, mine popped right off with a little pry motion from the front, then a buddy and I lifted her out. Also my snout separated pretty easily. Non rust belt car maybe? The symposer and its wiring/clips on the other hand. Terrible trying to get all that off at the rear of the engine bay.





Interesting number choice...






Ordered the wrong coupler for the S/C from ZZP, so new one is on its way and then ill do the oil service. Was going to slap on an upper pulley too, but I think I am gonna hold off and get a baseline dyno of this car before I look at pulleys/tunes. Plus I need to save some $$ for whatever is gonna go wrong on reassembly im sure haha

 

they don’t crack that often, i pulled a 220k factory seal and it was perfect. when they break it kicks you back into neutral and the car is undrivable. very useless mod

 

Glad to hear the SC pins weren't stuck! Maybe the SC has been removed before by Jaguar? If not then it was good luck! I put anti-seize on the pins on reinstallation to stop that from happening in the future. Do you know that the snout calls for a special adhesive? No gasket available as it's glued on from the factory.

Loctite 38655. It's marked 515 on the tube. It's a bit expensive at around $15-$20. I find EBay and Amazon the cheapest at about $15.

Interesting about the seal too? I have never seen the metal version and I have never replaced one or seen one bad either? I have only worked on about 5 or 6 ZF6 speeds and 2 or 3 ZF8 speeds. Something I will keep in mind.
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I used 518 under the recommendation of another forum post.

 

Went to three local stores (Advance, O'Reily, and Napa) and nobody carries the 515 OR the 518 by Loctite. They did have this permatex product, Anaerobic gasket maker, part #51813. Think I can use this?

Also - was able to do plugs yesterday in about 2 hours, doing this with the S/C & Intake Mani off is key. Couple other pointers for the job:

1) Remove the engine side cowls, each as 2-3 10mm bolts and they slide out. loosen the coolant/HVAC coolant hardline by removing the bolts that secure it to the p/s frame rail, get at these from under the car
2) Fully unclip the 8 coils and injectors clips (carefully, use tweezers or a picking tool to dislodge connectors. Dont pull on the wires!) and then swing the harness out of the way around the back of the valve cover or rest inside the "V"
3) Use a screwdriver torx #30 bit in a ratcheting 8mm wrench, or 1/4" drive ratchet with short 8mm socket and the same torx bit to get coil bolts out quickly.
4) blow or vacuum out holes if any dirt gets into plug wells. Use a 14mm 12pt magnetic plug socket (got mine at O'Reilys Auto Parts) for plugs, and a combination of of extensions/adapters to get the right height or clearance from the valve covers.
5) Double check gaps. Mine were right about at 0.038" out of the box, same as stock ones that came out. (NGK ILKAR7C10, Stock # 94940)
6) Tighten by hand using no more than the force of your palm/wrist, then tighten an additional 1/2 turn with wrench, slowly.



Also took this opportunity to look at my valves. Cyl's 4 & 8 (rear most pair) are worse than the others. None are terrible in my opinion. 45k mi, 4-5 oil changes using OEM castrol, and not sure on gas, was a CA car so likely 91oct? Note the color of the 4 & 8 and also those plugs have some oil/coloring on the threads. Not sure if I need to worry about this, attempt cleaning them now, or what.



I plan on deleting the symposer system on the back of the S/C. seems like this is not adding anything to my driving experience, and just another place for a vac leak down the road that wont be easy to fix. Also, will simplify installation & removal of the S/C in the future. Had a block-off plate fabbed up. (couldn't find anything off the shelf and didn't want to mess with capping or plastic welding the stock flanged tube.) I am thinking I will keep the solenoid plugged in and capped to prevent any CELs. Unless I can run a resistor to mimic its presence. a large vac cap over the firewall port will suffice for the other side.



New coupler arrives today, so hopefully I can get the S/C back together and finally start putting some parts BACK on the car.

 

Nice job on the blanking plate. I will copy this as my opinion of the stupid symposer system is to remove it as soon as possible. Nothing but added complexity for nothing.

Yes I also could not find the 515 locally but it's common on EBay and Amazon so not hard to get. As far as using what you have I can't help but it sounds like pretty much the same thing? The only thing I don't like is it is suppose to be easy to remove and the 515 is not. It's hard as a rock.
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Forgive my ignorance...what does the symposer do?

 

Well, it symposes. duh.

LOL. I'm wondering as well. thanks

 

It captures a certain frequency range and rebroadcasts that into the cabin. I.E. Makes some engine sounds louder

 

Yes and it's way more common than you think. My wife has a 2013 Lincoln MKS with the 365HP 3.5L twin turbo Ecoboost. It also does the same thing and a V-6 turbo just does not have that pleasant of sound regardless of how it tuned. Great engine and very easy to mod but nothing sounds like the 5.0L SC V-8 in my 2014 XJR.

That engine does not need any sound enhancements besides what comes roaring out the quad tail pipes!
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Interesting. I have a 2015 MKS 3.7L (no turbo) and it does have a decent sound for a V6. I've been fooled!! haha

Agree, the AJ-V8 has a nice exhaust note.

 

@shemp i used to have a 3.7 MKZ a few cars ago!!! I put an intake on it and man did that thing sound incredible in the upper rpm, it really screamed.

 

Moving along here, slowly but surely. Coupler and S/C Oil done yesterday. Chased and cleaned all the holes and bolts too for a clean re-assembly. Use the permatex sealant linked above.

After syringe, and drain, I was able to get our almost a full 5.0Z (took a lot of maneuvering and extracting). Chart calls for 5.10 oz so based on that and the color/age of my car, I was happy with it. I put in 5.00 oz of the GM fluid.





Not the worst I have seen...


New & Old coupler. After greasing the shaft and the holes it was too hard to get on by hand. I used a long wood clamp and a large 36mm socket as a pressing surface. It popped right on Hardest part was lining up the snout to guide itself in and not smear the sealant. My advice is to get its aligned using the dowels on the S/C body, and then lightly thread in the bolts going from inside out to slowly draw the snout on straight and allow the snout shaft to get into the isolator. No more play in the pulley now!





Tomorrow the aux rad hoses are supposed to show up, along with some other bits. The new parts pile is getting quite big!



Old stuff

 

That's quite a pile of parts for sure!!
I don't see the rear water manifold but maybe you are changing that too as it will fail also? It was still attached to the back of your engine in an earlier picture.
I have #AJ814007 about $100.
Note it is also C2Z-31645 or AJ812458 or LR0-87559. I find the LR parts are often way cheaper than the Jaguar version for some reason? The LR version is around $50.
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I got it, thank for looking out! I just installed the new one with its included sensors and o-rings (as well as the hoses that attach to it - one to heater hardline, and another that goes under the S/C and all the way to the TB)

I am replacing everything in the system except the aux rads (I cleaned them) and the metal hardline pipe on the passenger side of the engine. Full thread to follow, I am documenting everything so I will share for a comprehensive resource for others who want to do the overhaul.

Got the S/C and Manifold back on today, along with a few small parts. Hopefully more progress tonight after the little one goes down!

 

I'm not a techno type of person, so when I see owners like this stripping engines etc right back and repairing or upgrading systems and components I can only be amazed at the knowledge, skill, time and dedication that must go into this.

 

This is an incredible amount of work, kudos for documenting the progress DeviLSH!

 

“3) Does anyone have an order guide for theirs they can share? Mine has the smaller wing, and the CF engine cover. It also has the all black wheels vs machined face. I am curious what other options were available and not selected. I can find brochures and articles, but nothing that shows an option matrix to show me what was available and what was chosen.”

I don’t have the order guide, but here is a website i use to look at options list on old cars, it has a car configuration tool for old models - https://www.autobytel.com/jaguar/xf/2015/configurator/

 

https://www.auto-brochures.com/jaguar.html