Hello,
my Daimler V12 1995 (X305) wont start after i changed the battery, also i cant lock them with the remote. The reason why i changed the battery was, the old one was empty... after this the desaster has begun...
Symtomes:
- The locking symbol beside the seat heating symbol permanet lights up red
- If i try to lock up the car with the remote it just turns the front lights on
- If i try to start the car, the airbag/srs symbol on the instrument cluster lights up.

Hope you could help me or give some advice, if i shoul test something please tell me.
Many thanks and best regards from sunny Munich.
Maxi

PS: I know there is a X305 forum, but there is nearly nobody and i just want to bring the car back to the garage fast as i can.

 

Can't begin to say why, but it appears your car thinks it is locked; therefore, one push of the lock button on the FOB brings on the headlights which is normal behaviour for the 2nd push. I suppose you've tried the obvious things: Unlocking with the FOB and also with the Key in driver's door? Either of which should tell the module it is ok to relax the security protocols...Also, make sure you are getting a red P in the J-gate shifter.

 

Yes i've tried to lock the car with the remote and it won't work.
In case i use the key on drivers door it will lock up, but it dont matter if the trunk is open (normaly in my mind it should't do that, and if its open and you try to lock it IT should beeeep).

Shifter is in P and lights up red.
Another point, if i turn the key to igintion point i should bei able to move the shifter but this also wont work...

 

Yes, it sounds like the car think it is locked. Perhaps you can cheat it by locking manually, remove battery power and then reattach, while it actually IS locked?

 

I tried to lock it manually, and then reattach the battery
And it still activate the headlights....

Realy don't know what i should do next...

 

[QUOTE=Maxville;905677]Yes i've tried to locker um the ca with the remote and it won't work.
In case i use the key on drivers door it will lock up, but it dont matter if the trunk is open (normaly in my mind it should't do that, and if its open and you try to lock it IT should beeeep).

Shifter is in P and lights up red.
Another point, if i turn the key to igintion point i should bei able to move the shifter but this also wont work...[/QUOTE]

It is the action of pressing the brake pedal that allows the shifter to move out of park "P". It operates a solenoid beside the shifter, beneath the wood panel and you should hear a "click" when you press the brake. Alles gut, ja?

 

It don't matter if i push the pedal, i can't move the shifter...

Leider ist nicht alles gut... kommst du auch aus Deutschland? Beste Grüße aus München

 

Ok, do you hear the solenoid beneath the ski slope panel clicking when you press the brake pedal? This operates a brake shifter lock and it's operation allows the shifter to move.

You can manually bypass the solenoid by removing the plastic torx head screw beside the shifter and gently push your key, a biro, or similar down into the hole and depress the lever beneath.

If the solenoid isn't getting power, the switch beneath the brake pedal may be at fault. A multimeter is a must when checking out these and other items.

Ich sprechen keine Deutsch, aber meine schatz ist von Hamburg, so.........

 

Thanks for the advice, tomorrow i will do it and bring the car back to the garage.

But m main problem is, it won't start.
I cant tell how anoying this is...

Best regards und Grüße ans Fräulein aus Hamburg

 

Can you provide us with some more information to help? Can you describe some more symptoms on what works and what doesn't?

- have you confirmed that the new battery is fully charged? - it would not be the first time that a new battery was purchased flat.

- When you put the key in and turn on the ignition do you get the normal lights? and then do they go off as normal?

- with ignition on, what components work and what doesn't? lights, wipers, blower, radio, hazard flashers, horn etc Do you hear the fuel pump run when you switch on the ignition?

- does the car lock and unlock with the key in the door or the lock button inside the car?

- when you say it won't start, can you explain. Does it turn over at all? Do you hear fuel pump run? Do you hear any clicks or any other noises when you try to engage the starter?

I'm sure we can work this out if you can provide as much detail as you can. Do you have a multimeter or even a test light that you can do tests with?

 

Danke, du bis sehr net!

 

Yes for sure i provide much as i can

Battery is at 12.8V
So now
working things:
-horn works
-windows works
-blower works
-radio works (but the elec antenna won't)
-reading lights works
-hazard light works
-elec seats

Not working:
-wippers
-indicators
-locking with remote

Dashlights, the come on normaly and go off if i would start
i cant turn it over, no clicking noise from starter and in my ears also nothing from the fuel pump...

If i put the key in and turn the igniton on there is a short click from behind/trunk

Lock button inside the car won't, work but lights up red all the time.

What i also tried, i put one key in and turn the igniton on, closed the door and locked it with the other key on the drivers door.

and yes i have a multimeter, tell me what fruther informations you need or what i should test and i will do it.

Thanks a lot, i really appreciate this!

 

There are a number of things that could be the cause and the immobilizer is certainly one of them.

Engine cranking is controlled by the Body Processor Module (BPM). you should have 12v on pin 33 of the yellow connector with the ignition on. If the signal is ground then either the BPM is defective or it does not have all the required inputs for cranking. (interestingly the wipers and indicators are also controlled through the BPM) If you do have 12v then the problem could be the starter relay or motor or wiring.

The BPM requires several things in order to allow cranking.
1. Check engine light on. Pin 7 of the black 48way connector on the BPM should be ground when ignition is on. (You do see the light come on the dash right?)
2.Park/neutral switch. Pin 20 of the black connector on the BPM should be ground when ignition is on.
3. Immobilizer disarmed. This is a data connection so no easy way of checking.

Fueling is controlled by the ECM. It will inhibit fueling if the told to do so by the locking/alarm system. (again a data connection)

I would start with checking these inputs/outputs to narrow things down. Make sure you also carefully inspect the connectors for any issues like dirt/oxidation or bent pins and make sure the grounds are good.

Do you have the electrical manual for the car? If not then you can download it for free from the link in the 'how to' section of this forum.

Let us know how you get on and hopefully we will be able to help you solve the problem.

 

First of all, i habe to say thank you.
Tomorrow i will start with the work...

Does anybody of you know how i could reach the bcm and how i could remove it?

Best regards

 

It is behind the passenger knee bolster. Just unscrew the fasteners and pull it away. Assuming your car does not have a glovebox? The BPM is mounted vertically in front.

 

I also think you have a problem with the BPM. Possibly also a problem with the Security module, but let's take it one step at a time. Before pulling trim and the BPM you could try a couple of tests under the bonnet on systems that are not working, that are also controlled from the BPM.

Wipers - Check the wiper relay socket Pin 1 (Pin no.s are shown on the socket when the relay is removed). With wipers turned off you should see 12v on Pin 1. When the wipers are turned on you should see Ground on Pin 1. This is controlled by the BPM.

Washers - You didn't say whether these are working or not but I'm guessing not. There is a similar control function for Pin 1 on the Washer Pump relay.

(Location of these relays is shown in the Electrical Guide as referred to by Allen but I've attached 1 page for ease)

If these tests confirm there is no control signal from the BPM then I think we can be pretty sure it is dead. It is also more than likely that it is also at least partly the cause of the no start.

I would then carry out the tests described by Allen to confirm. Attached for extra location information a picture of the BPM and where it is (this is RHD so yours will be opposite). You can just pull the knob shown at the bottom of the picture and the BPM can then be pulled down.


The bit that has me confused is the constant light on the door lock button. That indicates that the Security system is armed. But let's see how you get on with the BPM.

Is there anything we should know about the history. You said you replaced the battery because it was empty. Had you tried any Jump Start operations before you replaced it? Did anything happen while you were replacing the battery that could have caused a spike?

 

First i have to say sorry for the belated Response, but my father was ill and i have to manage our business alone.

I tested the described pins ( whippers and washers ) and there is nothing.
To be sure, we also measured the permanent plus on both relay's and it is there.

So i removed the BPM and dryed it precautionary in case of being humid. After the procedur, i put it back in the car and try again to start but still nothing....

At ebay i found a used BPM for around 120,- € and i would give a try, on the front side are the same specs as my original one in the car.

For the history, yes i've tried a jump start but befor i also tried to start the car with another ( nearly new ) battery, at this moment i tought the V12 need a lot of energy and jump start it. At the end no difference.

Does anybody of you know what's the difference between the endings of the Partno is? Most of the available moduls has LNA2500AA/001 and my ending is /002

Best regards from Munich!
Maxi

 

I don't know for sure on the part no. suffix, but I suspect it is for different markets with different requirements like Sweden requiring Day Running Lights - and I guess these also changed over the years also. Fundamentally i think they will be the same.

120 Euro for a BPM sounds very expensive. Check out ebay UK - they sell for 15-20 GBP. There are two UK ebay Jag Parts dealers close to me that I have met and trust. Both are small single person companies. They are jaguarpartssale and jaguarxj40uk.

I have a slightly faulty BPM in the garage that you can have for free (well the price of the postage from the UK). The only fault on it is the Wiper control - it is certainly good for starting the car. So it would allow you to confirm the problem is the BPM for sure before buying a new module. PM me if you want this.

 

Hello,

I have an X350 and a few days ago, the car did not respond to the remote control. Tried it with a few other original keys and result was the same. I held the disarm button for a few seconds all the windows lowered themselves but the doors refused to open. I tried to unlock the door mechanically using the key but did not succeed trying the driver's door. The passenger door opened alright but the boot, the glove box were automatically locked. The instrument cluster lit up when I tried to fire up the engine but what I got was only a few beeps, the engine did not turn. During the whole while, the alarm did not activate. Holding the "arm" button for a few seconds the windows all shut up.... I later concluded that the battery was running flat. I found a friend who had a mobile-phone like battery booster and unlock the boot mechanically using the key (there is a small key hole facing down from the boot cover). Attached the booster cable and immediately the boot lamp lit up. Car then started right up and all locks and alarm returned to normal, but the power steering seemed not working. I drove it to the garage, replaced the battery and everything was fine. Power steering returned to normal too. When replacing the battery the workshop provided temporary power using another battery so all computer settings stay intact during and after the battery replacement.

I believe the symptoms you are having are the signs of a weak battery, although you bought it new. No harm trying to jump start with the help of another battery booster. If all still fail, then you may have to tow it to the professional to find out the real problem. Just my two cents.

 

Have you also tried using another key, and is the remote's battery in good working order? My brother had a Mercedes CL600 V12 before (old model) and on one occasion his remote battery went flat and when trying to open the car door with the key mechanically it activated the alarm and the immobilizer. Remote battery was subsequently changed and the door opened alright with the remote, but the immobilizer was still active as the car was still in "armed" mode. Eventually we found the security-alarm module re-set button in the boot, and everything returned to normal after resetting. Mercedes and Jaguar may be different in security design but maybe the logic of sequencing i.e. activating and deactivating, is the same.