Just replacing upper shock bushings
#21
#22
Bfh
What is BFH?
What is BFH?
Just did mine, I used a small crowbar to separate the large washer from the tube going through the bushes. I did drink a beer while doing this install, and I used a BFH to reconnect everything. If you need a press you're not drinking enough beer or eating enough spinach.
What is BFH?
#24
The following 2 users liked this post by OldMike:
Platinum XJR (10-04-2013),
shayamanzi (11-03-2013)
#27
I just got the upper bushings from Welsh Ent., now I have to find the time to do the job. Maybe this weekend, unless I feel like doing it after work one of these days. It doesn't sound too difficult, but this is my only car so I can't afford to have it sitting in pieces for a couple days!
#28
I just got the upper bushings from Welsh Ent., now I have to find the time to do the job. Maybe this weekend, unless I feel like doing it after work one of these days. It doesn't sound too difficult, but this is my only car so I can't afford to have it sitting in pieces for a couple days!
#29
The following users liked this post:
shayamanzi (11-03-2013)
#31
#32
If you undo the top bolt of either of the two shock absorbers, it will become very clear what you have to do. It would take longer to take the pictures and submit them on this forum then it will take you to do it.
However, you are very good with the camera -- again, thanks for the excellent photos on the replacing the brake switch -- here is a rundown of the steps I took which would be enhanced by a photos. This is from memory since it has been five months and alzheimers is hitting on all 8 cylinders. This is a good time to do it since Cambrio wants to cleanup and revise the stickies and this effort is frequently queried:
1. Unbolt and move the power steering reservoir to allow access to left hand upper shock mount bolts
2. Unbolt the top shock bolt, will need to hold the shock rod from turning; I used vicegrips and a ratcheting box wrench
3. Unfasten 10mm nuts securing mount to frame
4. Jack up car far enough for the shock rod to be free of the mount
5. Lift mount from frame and upper shock rod and place on ground or sturdy workbench
5a. get BFH (I used 1# ball peen)
5b. get socket that just fits inside female side of mount but perfectly matches male fitting
5c. smack it until male pops out of female side
6. Remove top side rubber; remove bottom side rubber from male bushing;
7. Install new poly bushings on both sides of mount bracket; install female top bushing
8. Using long bolt and nut with adequate washers, tighten the female side down onto male side of bushing; it is correctly fitted when female and male are continuous surface
9. Lower car sufficiently for positioning shock rod to just emerge on top of frame
10. Install upper mount, with shock rod through bushing and finger tighten retain bolts; finger tighten upper shock bolt
11. Torque retaining bolts; lower car so shock rod now extends fully through mount. Tighten shock bolt to end of threads
12. Reinstall PS reservoir; lower car
13. Do the right side, less PS reservoir repositioning
Hope this helped.
However, you are very good with the camera -- again, thanks for the excellent photos on the replacing the brake switch -- here is a rundown of the steps I took which would be enhanced by a photos. This is from memory since it has been five months and alzheimers is hitting on all 8 cylinders. This is a good time to do it since Cambrio wants to cleanup and revise the stickies and this effort is frequently queried:
1. Unbolt and move the power steering reservoir to allow access to left hand upper shock mount bolts
2. Unbolt the top shock bolt, will need to hold the shock rod from turning; I used vicegrips and a ratcheting box wrench
3. Unfasten 10mm nuts securing mount to frame
4. Jack up car far enough for the shock rod to be free of the mount
5. Lift mount from frame and upper shock rod and place on ground or sturdy workbench
5a. get BFH (I used 1# ball peen)
5b. get socket that just fits inside female side of mount but perfectly matches male fitting
5c. smack it until male pops out of female side
6. Remove top side rubber; remove bottom side rubber from male bushing;
7. Install new poly bushings on both sides of mount bracket; install female top bushing
8. Using long bolt and nut with adequate washers, tighten the female side down onto male side of bushing; it is correctly fitted when female and male are continuous surface
9. Lower car sufficiently for positioning shock rod to just emerge on top of frame
10. Install upper mount, with shock rod through bushing and finger tighten retain bolts; finger tighten upper shock bolt
11. Torque retaining bolts; lower car so shock rod now extends fully through mount. Tighten shock bolt to end of threads
12. Reinstall PS reservoir; lower car
13. Do the right side, less PS reservoir repositioning
Hope this helped.
Last edited by Jhartz; 09-26-2013 at 09:21 AM. Reason: First time was too terse and running with snot
The following 3 users liked this post by Jhartz:
#33
#36
#38
I replaced the upper shock mount bushings this afternoon. All in all it was an easy project, thanks to all the info I got in this thread.
Here is a photo of the before and after bushings.
I chronicled the process on the driver's side (left) with a few photos. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-pics-103540/
As with most projects, if you've never seen what it is you're suppose to take off and replace, it's kind of hard to imagine! So, now that I've done it, it isn't a mystery any longer. I will start a new thread with the photos so as to not make this thread any more cumbersome than it already has become, but here are some of my observations.
1. The 8mm bolt that holds the bracket closed on the power steering reservoir is easy to remove and gives you adequate room to get the shock plate bolts out. No need to remove anything else.
2. I found no reason to jack up the car since it was quite easy to push down on the plate to reinstall it -- if that's an indication that my shocks are weak, please let me know!
3. I used a socket extension with a reducer on the end that fit inside the outside shock bushing and slammed it a few times with a not-so-BFH and it came apart without any trouble.
4. A long bolt and a socket that fit over the bolt was the easiest way for me to press the new bushings on. First I hand fitted the underside bushing on the collar, threaded it through the shock plate, pushed by hand the outside bushing on the collar as far as I could, then I used the bolt and socket to press the bushing on until the collar stuck out a little ways, then I put the brass (?) plate/washer on with the bolt and socket again and pressed that onto the collar. I guess you could do this in one step, but it just seemed easier to me to do it this way.
5. After fitting the shock plate over the top of the shock, I pushed down until I could finger tighten a couple or the bolts, then it was on tight enough for me to put the rest of the bolts in and tighten them all up with the socket wrench. I put the nut on the shock and tightened it down and then checked the shock plate bolts again.
That's it. Thanks again for all the help!
Here is a photo of the before and after bushings.
I chronicled the process on the driver's side (left) with a few photos. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-pics-103540/
As with most projects, if you've never seen what it is you're suppose to take off and replace, it's kind of hard to imagine! So, now that I've done it, it isn't a mystery any longer. I will start a new thread with the photos so as to not make this thread any more cumbersome than it already has become, but here are some of my observations.
1. The 8mm bolt that holds the bracket closed on the power steering reservoir is easy to remove and gives you adequate room to get the shock plate bolts out. No need to remove anything else.
2. I found no reason to jack up the car since it was quite easy to push down on the plate to reinstall it -- if that's an indication that my shocks are weak, please let me know!
3. I used a socket extension with a reducer on the end that fit inside the outside shock bushing and slammed it a few times with a not-so-BFH and it came apart without any trouble.
4. A long bolt and a socket that fit over the bolt was the easiest way for me to press the new bushings on. First I hand fitted the underside bushing on the collar, threaded it through the shock plate, pushed by hand the outside bushing on the collar as far as I could, then I used the bolt and socket to press the bushing on until the collar stuck out a little ways, then I put the brass (?) plate/washer on with the bolt and socket again and pressed that onto the collar. I guess you could do this in one step, but it just seemed easier to me to do it this way.
5. After fitting the shock plate over the top of the shock, I pushed down until I could finger tighten a couple or the bolts, then it was on tight enough for me to put the rest of the bolts in and tighten them all up with the socket wrench. I put the nut on the shock and tightened it down and then checked the shock plate bolts again.
That's it. Thanks again for all the help!
Last edited by OldMike; 09-29-2013 at 06:25 AM.
The following users liked this post:
shayamanzi (11-04-2013)
#39
Just wanted to say that, after driving 100 miles or so this week, I truly believe the upper shock mount bushings has helped smooth out my ride a bit. I get less shudder/shaking and haven't noticed any clunks like I did before. It was a fairly easy fix and I'm really thankful for all the help I got here. Every time I do something like this to my Jaguar I understand how great this site is and can't even begin to calculate the amount of money I've saved! My next project is going to be replacing the brake pads and rotors, so off to find that wonderful thread about doing that!