XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Air suspension fault

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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 11:01 AM
  #321  
wfooshee's Avatar
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Several readers on the market that read Jaguar/Land Rover modules. I have one from iCarSoft, the LR II, which was not hideously expensive and has access to the ASM codes along with many other modules.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 11:02 AM
  #322  
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Hi Jack, I use a Foxwell NT530 with Jaguar software, so you could be right.


 
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Old Feb 17, 2022 | 02:01 AM
  #323  
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hello

my jaguar x350 (2006) is in high position front and rear ...
and when I inflate or deflate the rear suspensions with my diagnostic device manually it works and for the front suspensions it does not work what could this be from? I think this is the source of my problem
 
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Old Feb 17, 2022 | 10:32 AM
  #324  
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That sounds like bad valves in the valve body in the trunk. If it vents the rears then the vent solenoid in the compressor looks to be OK, as that it the only outlet for excess air to be released. if it won't release from the front, the only other valve needed is the main valve body.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2022 | 10:41 AM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by wfooshee
That sounds like bad valves in the valve body in the trunk. If it vents the rears then the vent solenoid in the compressor looks to be OK, as that it the only outlet for excess air to be released. if it won't release from the front, the only other valve needed is the main valve body.
can you tell me what i should do exactly? thank you
 
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Old Feb 18, 2022 | 04:15 PM
  #326  
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I don't know that there is anything you actually can do other than replace the valve assembly, which is an expensive thing to do just to try. Somebody who knows the system needs to look at it and advise you.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2022 | 11:00 PM
  #327  
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I tend to agree with everything wfooshee (is that the sound of air going out?)
It's unlikely multiple height sensors are faulty.
Going up not down means it's not a leak (except a valve?)
The only "moving part" is the valves (the rest is just sealed wobbly jelly so-to-speak)
Could be control electronics. Can partly test that by disconnecting the battery. You can't then drive, but that's being picky.

I've no idea how you can test a valve block in-situ. Besides, a leaking valve might occur over hours or days/weeks. I reckon the valve block is not given enough protest activity.
I suspect some change shocks when it's actually the valve block. It's my current conspiracy theory (Bill Stein in collaboration with Bill Gates)

Disclaimer: I only have slow "downs" at times, and currently none at all even for weeks. Did nothing. So I reckon the air valves sometimes get a bit of dust interfering with their seal. OR SOMETHING
 
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Old Feb 19, 2022 | 04:04 AM
  #328  
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$99 delivered, for new aftermarket units on ebay
 
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