Ignition switch
 

Hey guys,
I wanted to start a new thread about my ignition switch..... I think I've isolated my sound system problem to this.
Anyway, when I turn the key off and remove it, all of the things which power up when the key is in position #1 stay on.... weird. I have to disconnect the battery to get everything to turn off. There is also a lot of play when I turn the key before it actually engages.
What's the procedure to replace the ignition switch or fix this one?

Thanks,
Bill

Hi Bill,

I haven't replaced the ignition switch on an X350 but I've done it on an XJ40 and it wasn't difficult. The switch clips onto the end of the ignition lock barrel. It's Part 2 in this diagram:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...b2e219a22e.jpg
I haven't looked at our car, but I assume to access the switch you need to remove the knee bolster and the lower half of the steering column cowl. Once you have access to the switch, before removing it you could use an ohmmeter to check its operation at its electrical connector. The schematics in the Electrical Guide show which terminals connect at each key position. You can download the guide at the link below, courtesy of Gus and his jagrepair.com website:

2004 Jaguar X350 Electrical Guide

If the ignition switch checks out OK, look for a relay that may not be unlatching.

Cheers,

Don

There is a little "door" in the ignition switch which closes when you remove the key-is this

closing when you take the key out?

If that is ok you could try a little light oil in the switch.

I think any new switch will have to be programmed to the transponder in the key.

Thanks, guys. I'll check the little "door," but I think there's something internal on the switch the way the key sort of flops around before engaging, then when turning the car off, the engine stops, but the ignition switch remains in "position #1" even with the key out.
Does anyone know how to remove the trim piece which surrounds it? I've got just about everything out... the wood dash trim, console, lower steering column cowl, but I can't see how that trim comes out. Does that trim even need to be removed?

What functions remain on when you remove the key ?

It's certainly the normal for window lifts, mirror folding and sunroof operation (but curiously not the radio/cd) to continue to operate after the key has been removed. They probably switch off when the car is locked, or maybe when the timed power supply switches off at around 40 mins after the key is removed.

The radio and CD remain on when key is removed.

The radio switches off immediately when I turn the ignition off, except if I'm making a phone call - then it says on while the phone call is in progress.

I've had this happen a few (very few) times. I just insert the key again, and pull it out and all is well. I think from time to time the door/flap does not close and is causing this.

The door only keeps the key in ignition chime on.
You need to replaced the electrical portion of the ignition switch and if your key flops around in the barrel i would get a new barrel as well and new key not worn down. The trim ring snaps out, (rarely snaps back in) lol
i remove the inst pack, steering cowl and knee bolter. It is a royal pia to do sometimes going in and out without fuss, other times 2-3xs what it should take

I'm following this thread in pursuit of my battery draining issue. I had posted a new thread about swapping the rear electrical module per TSB in an attempt to fix the issue. After a week the drain was back.
I notice that sometimes when I shut the engine off, the gauges remain where they were before shut down, and don't drop. A couple of key on/off's and they then drop. So I'm wondering if I have a similar issue to Bill's, where a faulty switch could be leaving some systems live. Or as Don says, a relay not unlatching.
I also have the floppy key: the first part of the turn is loose, with no feeling of turning anything in the switch. There's no steering wheel lock when key is out too.
I have a parts car and started to remove the switch - see pic's. But I notice the switch has the same feel (floppy first part of turn, no wheel lock when key removed), so I guess this switch is no better.

Thanks,

Rob

Rob,

You can test both switches with an ohmmeter. The Electrical Guide shows which wires should connect at each key position. The meter may also help you see if the contacts are sticking and not releasing properly.

Cheers,

Don

I don't think NA vehicles had a steering lock, mine doesn't.:icon_user:

Hey Rob! Good pics... I'm almost where your pictures show... just need to get more of the trim off. Question is, how do I remove it?? Looks like there is a plug with all the wires that needs to be disconnected, then what?
Bill

Hey Venelin: It's definitely something loose in the barrel affecting the "ACC" position. My question is how do I proceed? New switch, which means new key.... or can it be fixed?

I thought the ignition switch was cable driven? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...normal-161439/

The key is quite sloppy in mine, compared to previous cars; I've always assumed it's just normal for this car; it's never been a problem.

One thought occurs ... does the radio still work when you come back to the car but before you put the key in the ignition ?

On my other car (a Hyundai Getz) the radio goes off when you turn from I to 0, but if you push the ON/OFF switch again it comes back on for one hour. That's presumably so you can leave kids there with the radio on, but take the key with you ... or some such.

You can't do that with the 350 - no key, no radio. So I just wonder if someone has rewired yours so that the AUX- switched power lines to the tuner/amp/ and head unit etc are instead powered from the timed power lines which go dead 40 (?) mins later.

Just a thought.

Bill,

There are 2 press-tabs, top and bottom to remove the Ign switch. I used a screwdriver to press them in. Then unplug the switch.

I'll test the switch as Don says.

Bill, you may remember me, I sent you a pair of V12 fuel pumps a few years back.

Of course I remember! I've got newer Jags now... they still need fixing, don't they?
When you take the switch out, did you remove the trim around it? Does the round plastic piece just pop out?

Yes, black round trim ring pops off - 3 tabs.
To get the tumbler part out, there are 3 small Torx (T10 I think) screws holding the perimeter frame on. I had to use a mirror. They are are hard to remove, and will be next to impossible to replace. If you look at Don's post, post #2 with picture, you can see the holes for screws on the frame. I broke one off by accident. But you don't need to remove the barrel part at all, if the switch tests bad, swap just the switch and leave the barrel parts alone.

Well,
It's not the switch.... I swapped out the entire mechanism with a known good spare from another car; it's still leaving the accessories on with the key out. Not sure where to look now. Relay staying energized? Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks!